Custom 24 SE 35th Ann - Action and Pickup heights

ItsGameOvrMan

New Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Messages
5
I started playing guitar 2 years ago on an acoustic. Since I was still into it and I wanted to give electric a chance, I did lots of research and decided to purchase a Custom 24 SE 35th Anniversary edition guitar in early Nov. It was brand new and just released as I had to wait a couple weeks for Sweetwater to get them. This is the first electric guitar I've played and purchased. So I have been in learning mode for the last couple months on playing an electric guitar compared to acoustic.

The question I have for this model guitar have to deal with the action and pickup heights. I felt like the action was way too high. Looking at the neck pickup vs bridge pickup they are at vastly different heights. In fact they are 2mm in difference. My action was really high and sitting at @ 4.5/32 on low E 12th fret. This is 2/32 over PRS recommended factory setting.

I checked the neck relief and that seems ok.

So my plan was to lower the action to PRS recommended of 2.5/32 on low E; however, when I try to do that the string is literally touching the bridge pickup or barely off it. So all I get is string buzz.

At this point I'm at a loss for what I need to do. Is this normal on an electric that the pickups are different heights? What do I need to look at? Ideas?

Picture is before I tried to lower action.
 
It's normal for a neck pickup to be significantly lower than the bridge pickup.

Use the center screws of each pickup to drop them down low while you adjust the action.

Assuming that your trem is level, set your 12th fret action to taste and then adjust pickups to spec.
 
It's normal for a neck pickup to be significantly lower than the bridge pickup.

Use the center screws of each pickup to drop them down low while you adjust the action.

Assuming that your trem is level, set your 12th fret action to taste and then adjust pickups to spec.

I think might be a bit confused on this...

On the pickup there are 4 screws (one in each corner) and a screw in the middle of each end. Do I use the middle screws to bring down the pickup, THEN set the action height using the bridge Allen wrench?

Edit: I think I understand now that the action height can be changed independently of the pickup height so I can set the action (based on 12th fret), THEN lower the pickup height to spec.
 
Last edited:
I think might be a bit confused on this...

On the pickup there are 4 screws (one in each corner) and a screw in the middle of each end. Do I use the middle screws to bring down the pickup, THEN set the action height using the bridge Allen wrench?

Edit: I think I understand now that the action height can be changed independently of the pickup height so I can set the action (based on 12th fret), THEN lower the pickup height to spec.

There ya go. I'll give you a basic rundown.

First set the action. Start with PRS specs, and honestly those are perfect. All my guitars are set to factory spec and the feel great. Then, while depressing the string at the last fret, set pickup height. If you dont have a tool to measure the space under the string, you can use the old timey method of using one nickel under the treble side and two under the bass. Use the screw in the middle of the pickup ring edges to adjust height. Thats it! Sometimes I'll screw a polepeice down to keep it more flush with the pickup surface, but thats it. To quote Ron Popeil "set it and fahghett it"
 
If you’re not comfortable doing this, take it, along with a new set of strings to a good luthier. Whatever you do, don’t start wanking the tremolo screws, you can ruin the trem. And have the nut replaced.
 
I have bought 2 guitars from Sweetwater. Like you about a 2 year player. The first one was so poorly set up it was scary. I got used to it but after a bit of playing and studying I could see the nut had been ripped down so deep that the neck needed a nice bend to keep the frets from buzzing. This in turn had the action at the 24th fret about a 1/4". I ended up replacing the nut myself and with a little tinker here and a little tinker there over time I now have this guitar perfect for what I want. The second guitar I had them Plek it and I have no clue if that did anything. It showed up good but the fret ends were horrible (telecaster elite). So I ended up filing on those for a bit until desired perfection. I now have my first PRS 35th 24-08 coming from wildwood and and nervously apprehensive! I should just make a habit of requesting no one touch it! Last thing I want is a part time teenager going at it (vague assumption).
 
I have bought 2 guitars from Sweetwater. Like you about a 2 year player. The first one was so poorly set up it was scary. I got used to it but after a bit of playing and studying I could see the nut had been ripped down so deep that the neck needed a nice bend to keep the frets from buzzing. This in turn had the action at the 24th fret about a 1/4". I ended up replacing the nut myself and with a little tinker here and a little tinker there over time I now have this guitar perfect for what I want. The second guitar I had them Plek it and I have no clue if that did anything. It showed up good but the fret ends were horrible (telecaster elite). So I ended up filing on those for a bit until desired perfection. I now have my first PRS 35th 24-08 coming from wildwood and and nervously apprehensive! I should just make a habit of requesting no one touch it! Last thing I want is a part time teenager going at it (vague assumption).

Ah, I see another poor soul has been gooched by the SE nut. I'm sorry but that SE nut is crap. I highly advise to replace them.

I'm a bit on the fence about PLEK. Never had a neck PLEK'd, but I cant imagine its going to be that much better than a solid tech doing a fret re-finish. From what I gather, you need some major domo training and knowhow about using one of those machines to get optimal results. BTW, since you are getting a new 35th, be prepared to still do a full setup out of the box. These guitars make a big journey through varying climates before they get here, so that neck will move. Took me some work to bet my 35th playing perfect. Keep all snot-nosed teenagers far away from your axes!
 
Ah, I see another poor soul has been gooched by the SE nut. I'm sorry but that SE nut is crap. I highly advise to replace them.

I'm a bit on the fence about PLEK. Never had a neck PLEK'd, but I cant imagine its going to be that much better than a solid tech doing a fret re-finish. From what I gather, you need some major domo training and knowhow about using one of those machines to get optimal results. BTW, since you are getting a new 35th, be prepared to still do a full setup out of the box. These guitars make a big journey through varying climates before they get here, so that neck will move. Took me some work to bet my 35th playing perfect. Keep all snot-nosed teenagers far away from your axes!

I took the plek option due to the horrid first experience. The first one was a ESP LTD ec-1000 ( not an SE but likely similar nut? ) which had a plastic nut. I replaced it with a tusq nut and man what a difference! In hindsight I should have likely skipped the plek since I was buying a higher end tele and maybe fender puts a little more work into the higher tier instruments? So who knows. But yes I am ready for whatever needs to be done to the PRS (like sanding the gloss of the neck). I'm in Utah which is dry as can be so it could get interesting.
 
I took the plek option due to the horrid first experience. The first one was a ESP LTD ec-1000 ( not an SE but likely similar nut? ) which had a plastic nut. I replaced it with a tusq nut and man what a difference! In hindsight I should have likely skipped the plek since I was buying a higher end tele and maybe fender puts a little more work into the higher tier instruments? So who knows. But yes I am ready for whatever needs to be done to the PRS (like sanding the gloss of the neck). I'm in Utah which is dry as can be so it could get interesting.


Kinda surprised ESP uses a plastic nut at a guitar around that price point. The SE nut is supposed to be "synthetic bronze", a step above straight plastic to me, but its still soft. I'm kinda curious to try an ebony nut, but havent gotten round to it yet.

BTW, about sanding the gloss from the neck, you probably already know it but experiment with a cheapo neck or clearcoated dowel, and try different grits to find the one you like before you take a pad to your new axe. With PRS SE finishes, they are usually thin enough they never feel grabby. Also, tighten the bushings on the tuning pegs. They will probably all be loose on arrival.
 
BTW, about sanding the gloss from the neck, you probably already know it but experiment with a cheapo neck or clearcoated dowel, and try different grits to find the one you like before you take a pad to your new axe.

I should not have said "sand the neck"! It will be masterfully slightly dulled. :)
 
So what I've done is check the neck relief and adjusted to specs range of 0.007 at 8th fret (1st/last fret pressed).
Set set the action to PRS specs of 2.5/32 for bass side and 2/32 for treble side at the 12th fret
Set the pickup height to PRS spec to be 3/32 for bass side and 5/64 for treble side holding down last fret.

The issue now is that the Low E string keeps buzzing off the frets no matter if I put the action way up.

Any ideas?
 
So what I've done is check the neck relief and adjusted to specs range of 0.007 at 8th fret (1st/last fret pressed).
Set set the action to PRS specs of 2.5/32 for bass side and 2/32 for treble side at the 12th fret
Set the pickup height to PRS spec to be 3/32 for bass side and 5/64 for treble side holding down last fret.

The issue now is that the Low E string keeps buzzing off the frets no matter if I put the action way up.

Any ideas?

So, if this was me, I would suspect a high fret somewhere, especially since its the low E. The bigger strings need more room to vibrate and as such tolerances for height differences between frets is slim. I had a similar issue, and it turned out several frets were high. So, here's what you do: get a fret rocker, or even a credit card. Straddle it over three frets and see if it rocks back and forth. If it does, you got a high fret and it will need leveling.

However, if she buzzes while played open, that's the nut. The string has ground thru the nut and no longer has enough clearance over the first fret.
 
Back
Top