Musta been a rice bread hot pocket....
Ok, focus peeps..
Wood, short scale and tone.
Ok, focus peeps..
Wood, short scale and tone.
Wood, short scale and tone.
To argue this point, PRSh has talked about different woods that he would love to build a guitar out of but has said that nobody would buy it because it isn't the traditional mahogony/maple/alder/ash/etcThere is a lot of psychology involved with guitar wood. The guitar companies want you to believe that these ultra exotic woods affect guitar tone. My opinion....exotic woods can be more detrimental to guitar tone than beneficial. One of the basic principals of marketing is to create a need that people weren't aware they had. ALL high end guitar companies are guilty of this. We are seeing zebrawood tops now and all other sorts of weird stuff. I've not played much in terms of exotic woods but from what I've played, stuff like koa or korina doesn't do anything to further a guitars tone above mahogany, mahogany/maple cap, or alder.
Wood:
African ribbon mahogany body, maple top, Peruvian or Honduran mahogany neck, Madagascar rosewood fingerboard.
My best sounding guitars have had the african ribbon 'hog and Peruvian or Honduran 'hog necks. I like the Madagascar rosewood because it's got a nice combination of warmth and snap, regardless of whether it's a stoptail or trem guitar.
Scale length and the difference in tone:
The shorter scale length sounds a little fatter to me, and some players find bending strings a little easier.
The longer scale length tends to have a little crisper low note stuff.
Tossup. Play a few of each and then decide.
There is a lot of psychology involved with guitar wood. The guitar companies want you to believe that these ultra exotic woods affect guitar tone. My opinion....exotic woods can be more detrimental to guitar tone than beneficial. One of the basic principals of marketing is to create a need that people weren't aware they had. ALL high end guitar companies are guilty of this. We are seeing zebrawood tops now and all other sorts of weird stuff. I've not played much in terms of exotic woods but from what I've played, stuff like koa or korina doesn't do anything to further a guitars tone above mahogany, mahogany/maple cap, or alder.
To argue this point, PRSh has talked about different woods that he would love to build a guitar out of but has said that nobody would buy it because it isn't the traditional mahogony/maple/alder/ash/etc
There is a lot of psychology involved with guitar wood. The guitar companies want you to believe that these ultra exotic woods affect guitar tone. My opinion....exotic woods can be more detrimental to guitar tone than beneficial. One of the basic principals of marketing is to create a need that people weren't aware they had. ALL high end guitar companies are guilty of this. We are seeing zebrawood tops now and all other sorts of weird stuff. I've not played much in terms of exotic woods but from what I've played, stuff like koa or korina doesn't do anything to further a guitars tone above mahogany, mahogany/maple cap, or alder.
Oh, I figured you were half joking, but I'm also aware of disdain for piezo.I'm sorry you couldn't tell I was mostly teasing Bill, Vaughn. I'm 100% sure Bill knows where I'm coming from.
You know the problem with the internet is that tone of voice can't really be heard, so it's definitely possible to misunderstand someone's intentions.
Incidentally, my very own PS Tonare does have one of those worthless pieces of junk in it. So there's that...and yes, for me it is worthless, but I still love my guitar.
Right. Every korina wood guitar I've played has had similar attributes. Many times I was able to play a hog and korina of the same model back to back.How can you admit you don't have much experience with "exotic woods" and then be able to form the opinion that they're "detrimental"?
I mean, you're welcome to your opinions but they should at least be informed opinions before passing judgement.
My korina guitars sound different than my alder guitars that sound different from my mahogany guitars that sound different from my mahogany and maple guitars. None of them sound "worse".
Wood:
African ribbon mahogany body, maple top, Peruvian or Honduran mahogany neck, Madagascar rosewood fingerboard.
My best sounding guitars have had the african ribbon 'hog and Peruvian or Honduran 'hog necks. I like the Madagascar rosewood because it's got a nice combination of warmth and snap, regardless of whether it's a stoptail or trem guitar.
Scale length and the difference in tone:
The shorter scale length sounds a little fatter to me, and some players find bending strings a little easier.
The longer scale length tends to have a little crisper low note stuff.
Tossup. Play a few of each and then decide.
I'm going to answer this in parts, because I might get long winded - then you can see the pattern and ignore me.I'm leaning heavily towards a ribbon mahogany for the back if I don't do a figured maple back.
Save the maple back for a hollow body.
Part 2 of my answer: the neck stuff.I'm still hung up on the neck, though. I don't want to kill the tone, but I want something figured like cocobolo. Maple is probably out because I think it might be too bright for me. IPITE.
For the fretboard, it's probably between cocobolo and a nicely figured Madagascar rosewood.
Yes, you could do that and I've seen a couple of builds like that. For me the difference (a personal bias) is that the thickness of a hollowbody makes the 3 layers natural. PRS carves the top and back so it fits nicely together. A semi-hollow with an f-hole is solid body thickness, so the middle layer will be pretty small - probably on the order of half the thickness of the middle of a hollowbody. My semi-hollow is at home so I can't measure.What about a semi-hollow body (1f hole)? Because that's not off the list for this build yet.
Good idea playing them back to back. The pickups differences will have some impact, but it should give you a sense of the impact of the neck on the tone.I have a Rosewood Artist 513 from when the first introduced the model and a MCRosie. Since I also have several mahogany necked guitars, I'll play all of those back to back with the idea that cocobolo would be in the middle.
Thanks!
Is this the thread you're thinking about?
http://forums.prsguitars.com/threads/the-neck-woods-of-the-forum-guitar.3004/
That does favour the 24.5. I don't expect you will find the scale is different enough to impact your fingering/fretting. It might be hard to judge on a Lester because the neck has other characteristics that might make it less comfortable in general. If you play them making note of whether or not your fingers are finding the wrong notes rather than if it is as comfortable as your longer scale PRS, I think you'll have a good idea what the shorter scale will do for you.For the scale length, easier bends and a slightly fatter tone would be pluses fot me. I have a couple of Lesters here, I should spend some time on them just fingering and fretting.
That does favour the 24.5. I don't expect you will find the scale is different enough to impact your fingering/fretting. It might be hard to judge on a Lester because the neck has other characteristics that might make it less comfortable in general. If you play them making note of whether or not your fingers are finding the wrong notes rather than if it is as comfortable as your longer scale PRS, I think you'll have a good idea what the shorter scale will do for you.
Part the last of my response.As to enhancing or killing tone, that is what I'm asking. I have maple, mahogany and Koa acoustics. I can tell you that each has their own personality. Not bad or good - just different. I'm interested in hearing how the tone changes from wood to wood in the experience of members who have played the rare stuff.
Oh, I figured you were half joking, but I'm also aware of disdain for piezo.
Out of curiosity, why did you have them put the piezo in your TG at all???