Zach Myers bridge issue

[mojo1fan]

I have a Zach Myers that has an issue with the bridge. The D string saddle seems to be lower than it is supposed to be. Upon looking closely, it looks to me as though some of the saddles were put in the wrong spot on the bridge. The two saddles in the middle (D and G strings) have large grooves in them, as though they were intended to be for the E and A string. Conversely, the grooves in the E and A saddle are small, as though they are supposed to be for the D and G strings.

I thought I might be able to unscrew the intonation adjustment screws and move the saddles around, but they don't seem to unscrew completely. So what I have done for now is filed down the G string saddle so that it is closer in the level to the offending D string saddle. That helped, but of course now that means the radius of the bridge and strings is flattened out in the middle and doesn't match the radius of the fretboard.

So, for one I'm wondering what are my options for this bridge? Would the PTC remedy this?

As an aside, I have experimented with putting the regular SE stoptail bridge on this guitar and frankly I think I like the way it sounds better. I have searched for replacement bridges and found the Wilkinson bridge that has intonation adjustments for the G and B strings. And it's budget friendly ($23.75 from Guitar Fetish) compared to the genuine PRS stoptail bridge. Does anyone here have any experience with the Wilkinson bridge?

 

[n24re]

I really liek the stock bridge in my ZM. Do you have any photos of the issue. We might be able to help.

As far as other bridges I have used the Mann Made bridge and the Schroeder and like them both a lot. I have the Mann on an SE245 soapbar and Schroeder on a McCarty.

I would still like to see the stock bridge as it is pretty much bullet proof.

Steve

 

[Hardtail]

As an aside, I have experimented with putting the regular SE stoptail bridge on this guitar and frankly I think I like the way it sounds better. I have searched for replacement bridges and found the Wilkinson bridge that has intonation adjustments for the G and B strings. And it's budget friendly ($23.75 from Guitar Fetish) compared to the genuine PRS stoptail bridge. Does anyone here have any experience with the Wilkinson bridge?

I'm curious too - I' having the well documented "muted" or "sitar" effect from the bridge saddles on the B & G string on my ZM ... thinking about changing to the Wilkenson ... would love to know if I can use it with the existing PRS bridge studs & not have to use the Wilkenson studs which stick up much higher & look lousey ... if anybody can help me, I'd really appreciate it. Thx

 

[Zappledan]

Resurrecting an old thread here. I'm getting a buzz on the G string, and the saddles aren't firmly in place, such that I have to press them back to get back to where I set intonation. Maybe I just have a defective bridge?

 

[palfino878787]

I really liek the stock bridge in my ZM. Do you have any photos of the issue. We might be able to help.

As far as other bridges I have used the Mann Made bridge and the Schroeder and like them both a lot. I have the Mann on an SE245 soapbar and Schroeder on a McCarty.

I would still like to see the stock bridge as it is pretty much bullet proof.

Steve

I’m having intonation issues and the saddles of my birdge are bottomed out. Is there a way to reset this? i can’t fine any documentation about how to setup this bridge from scratch.

 

[Broseph]

Can you submit photos? And a better description? Did you use the set screw on the back to help?

 

[show_a_little_faith]

I’m having intonation issues and the saddles of my birdge are bottomed out. Is there a way to reset this? i can’t fine any documentation about how to setup this bridge from scratch.

I don't have one myself, but I believe there are screws you can adjust to move the entire bridge slightly further back?...

 

[palfino878787]

Thanks, I am aware of these. They come with the bridge. I’m trying to find the documentation how far back it should be.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

Your top e string should 24.5 inches from nut to saddle.

 

[palfino878787]

Thanks, and the bottom e?

I’d like to “reset” the entire bridge.

Should I place all saddles in the middle of the bridge? And then create the standard pattern?

This is my bridge:

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This is what I mean as standard pattern:

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share.icloud.com

iCloud Photos - Apple iCloud

View, organize, and share photos and videos with iCloud Photos on the web. Changes will sync across your devices with iCloud.

share.icloud.com

How do I get here

 

[Alnus Rubra]

So I’m assuming your ZM looks fairly similar to this?



If yes, then if you have a reasonably accurate straight edge (ruler), then measure 24.5 inches from nut to top E saddle, as discussed.

Tune up your guitar to pitch, and strike a harmonic at the 12th fret for each string. That harmonic should also be in tune on each string.

If it’s (harmonic) sharp, move the saddle away from the bridge pickup a little and try the process again.

If it’s flat, then move the saddle toward the bridge pickup.

It’s good practice to loosen the string for which you’re moving the saddle, it takes pressure off the bridge.

It’s a little time consuming, but there is no set pattern.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

I should add that if you find that you can’t get the lower strings to adjust far enough back from the bridge pickup, there should be an Allen boot in the back side of the bridge (each side) where it touches the bridge stud.

You can use that Allen boot to adjust the bridge further away from the pickup. Right tighty moves it away, left Lucy moves it closer. Small adjustments, go a long way.

Go clarification, I’m only using the bridge pickup as a point of reference for the direction to moves the bridge saddles or bridge.

Hope all goes well.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

This may be of help too

Skitchy talks about grip strength. He plays the note at octave, but I use a harmonic because you can’t play a harmonic flat/sharp.

 

[palfino878787]

Thanks a log for this. Still there’s a missing data point. Before tuning to pitch, imagine if I was to install the bridge for the first time. Where should all saddles be? Before tuning for the first time. And what should be the starting distance of the bottom e? All these videos asume the only change is the saddles. But I haven’t seen any information provided by PRS on resetting the bridge as fsctory spec. Only trus rod, action height and pickup height. Nothing about initial measures for:

Bridge: high e and low e ( Now I have a starting point for High E (24.5 inches)

What’s the starting point for the saddles? Middle of the bridge, bottomed out or at the top?

 

[Alnus Rubra]

The only starting point you need is to set the top E string to 24.5, as that is the scale length of the ZM.

Adjust the other saddles as described above.

There is no factory spec for the bridge saddles. Use the image above as a guide to a start point for the other saddles.

 

[palfino878787]

Still the answer is not clear:

1) Loosen all strings
2) Reset all saddles to the middle position in the bridge
3) using the allen key position bridge with top E 24.5 inchens from nut and bottom E slightly farther from bridge pick (as in photo show above)
4) tune high e and adjust saddle (not bridge) until harmonic, open and fretted are the same.
5) repeat with the rest of the strings.
6) If you reach to bottom E and you need to move saddle further, move entire bridge.
7) Go back to step 4 and repeat

 

[Broseph]

No offense. But if you gotta ask these questions then you are prob best suited to take the guitar for a complete setup and let a luthier do it all. It’s complicated to explain a bridge setup. YouTube may help you the most.

 

[palfino878787]

Apologies, but other manufacturers have all necessary instructions published. What’s wrong to learn? Isn’t that the purpose of the forum? This is a mechanical problem, nothing overly complex. Not my fault only 80% of the solution is published.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

Ok to be clear. You should not have to adjust the bridge using the Allen bolt on the top E side.

Set the distance between the top E saddle and nut to 24.5 inches by measuring.

Use the advice in the video to complete the intonation set up.

 

[palfino878787]

Thanks