Wiring Diagram Question

[BabyDracula]

Excuse my questions I'm a PRS newbie and guitar novice

I recently bought a 2nd hand PRS S2 Singlecut and it needs to be re-wired (having weird issues where they guitar stops working if tilted. Checked connection on pots and switch, seem fine -maybe someone has tips)
- I'm trying to return to factory specs but I have no idea where to get the 1.1k and 2.2k blocks - I'm assuming they're resistors

I found some at stew Mac but they are listed as "1K-ohm, 1/2W" and "2.2K-ohm, 1/2W"

Are they're any specific parts (Brand/type) I would need in order to get this back to the "factory setting".

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Boogie]

Any electrical supplier will have these, too, but what you’ve found should work. For best results, find the exact value. Even a 100ohm deviation can make a difference. In a pinch, it’ll do.

 

[BabyDracula]

I guess to further elaborate - I'm seeing metal and carbon resistors. I saw a source that claims they are the carbon ones.

I am also seeing "1/2 W" and "1/4 W" any idea which* they are?




[edit: * = I knew W was watts, but I wrote "what" instead of "which". Fixed!]

 

[shimmilou]

Are you sure that it is not a pup issue, or pup wiring issue, or even a faulty volume pot? Generally speaking, it is likely not necessary to replace everything in the circuit. Does the sound cut out in all selector switch positions?

W = watts, and in this case, 1/4 watt, or 1/2 watt carbon film will work fine, 1.1K ohm for neck, 2.2K ohm for bridge

Here is one in a S2 SC of mine, looks like 1/2 W, 2.2K ohm, carbon film. (if you have a sharp eye, you can spot the factory wiring mistake on this switch)

 

[BabyDracula]

Thanks for your help.

So longer story -

1. I first checked the switch because ONLY the bridge wasn't working - IN 1st Position ONLY .
2. A couple of taps, then the bridge pickup sounded like it had about 1/4th the output of the neck ....
3. I opened the guitar up and moved the red volume pot sold knob. I got the pickup back.
4. I soldered this connection to make it more secure.
5. When I put the back plate back on, the pickup went out.
6. Then I took the plate off and moved the wire again, got it back
7. then I put the back plate back on and both pickups when out.
8. Then I got them back by moving the grey switch to output jack wire. (connection looks fine?)
   
   So, I have NO idea what the issue is... everything is working fine except when it's not.

There don't appear to be any modifications to the guitar or anything other than factory soldering, the original owner also said it was 100% stock and he never had this issue...

 

[shimmilou]

Almost certainly a poor connection somewhere, whether it is in a pickup, a solder joint, the 3-way switch, or even a bad volume pot.

 

[BabyDracula]

Almost certainly a poor connection somewhere, whether it is in a pickup, a solder joint, the 3-way switch, or even a bad volume pot.

I agree, I'm just not sure where/what.

I'll continue to poke and prod - and leave the back plate off anytime it goes back on something else isn't working


Just wanted to see what was what if I have to re-wire the entirety of the guitar in the process (has happened before)

 

[garrett]

If you do end up rewiring, you should be able to reuse the resistors and the tone caps.

If you want to start totally fresh, what you want are 1/4 W metal film resistors. 1.1k for neck and 2.2k for bridge, but you'll be fine with anything close to those two values. You can find them from places such as Guitar Pedal Parts, Mojotone, Small Bear Electronics, Tayda.

 

[Simon Says]

What do you mean it stops working when guitar is lifted? The guitar or the pot when pulled?

It not neccesery need to be a bad connection but rather short. Volume pot is well screwed in? Not lose? Lug one can possibly short to cavity shielding if the pot is lose and that would probably be my best guess

 

[Simon Says]

Get me lots of pictures and I will find the issue for you, just make sure all hardware is actually screwed in tight and snug. Other thing to inspect is the output jack, make sure the wiring is not lose, hot tap is not pressing against shielding (if the jack cavity is shielded) or the ground tap not bent over to much towards the jack pocket

 

[ViperDoc]

Something in your circuit is shorting out, meaning you're getting an unwanted ground with a loose component. Make sure everything in your circuit is secure. Try tying things down away from your control cover with zip ties. It sounds like installing the cover compresses something into a short. Ideally the cover should go into place without touching anything inside the cavity. Is your cavity shielded either with foil or conductive paint?

There is negligible voltage inside a passive guitar circuit, so 1/4W or 1/2W resistors will do fine. Carbon film or metal film will work the same way, your call.

 

[Boogie]

Too much weird. I’d unsolder everything and start from scratch. It’s not a tough job. Be sure nothing is shorting against the side or cover…assuming they’ve used isolation paint.

BTW, the wattage of a resistor only means size in a guitar. The smaller the better.

 

[BabyDracula]

What do you mean it stops working when guitar is lifted? The guitar or the pot when pulled?

It not neccesery need to be a bad connection but rather short. Volume pot is well screwed in? Not lose? Lug one can possibly short to cavity shielding if the pot is lose and that would probably be my best guess

Like when I pick it up and try to play it, but it's totally random. I appreciate the help!

 

[BabyDracula]

Something in your circuit is shorting out, meaning you're getting an unwanted ground with a loose component. Make sure everything in your circuit is secure. Try tying things down away from your control cover with zip ties. It sounds like installing the cover compresses something into a short. Ideally the cover should go into place without touching anything inside the cavity. Is your cavity shielded either with foil or conductive paint?

There is negligible voltage inside a passive guitar circuit, so 1/4W or 1/2W resistors will do fine. Carbon film or metal film will work the same way, your call.

It doesn't appear that anything would be touching the cover - but something happens EVERY TIME I put it on.

It's definitely NOT foil shielded and it doesn't look shielded, but I dont know if they are painted (with the coating) by the factory? It's the same color in the cavity as the guitar.

 

[Em7]

It sounds like you have a bad solder joint. You can either reflow every solder joint or you can tap on the joints one at a time with chopstick or a small dowel rod until the circuit cuts in or out to find the solder joint that needs to be reflowed. Mark each joint that is good with a Sharpie, so that you know that you have tested it.

 

[ViperDoc]

It doesn't appear that anything would be touching the cover - but something happens EVERY TIME I put it on.

It's definitely NOT foil shielded and it doesn't look shielded, but I dont know if they are painted by the factory? It's the same color in the cavity as the guitar.

Look closer. If there wasn't a short, you wouldn't have posted. It's there somewhere.

Any pictures?

 

[BabyDracula]

Here's a picture - I can take more. There's a lot of solder on that volume pot/red wire for the bridge pickup - only a small amount is what I added - would suspect this is the issue, however I haven't even attempted to put the plate back on. After both pickups cut out I tried to examine the output jack, but everything looks fine there.

Ut sounds like you have a bad solder joint. You can either reflow every solder joint or you can tap on the joints one at a time with chopstick or a small dowel rod until the circuit cuts in or out to find the solder joint that needs to be reflowed. Mark each joint that is good with a Sharpie, so that you know that you have tested it.

I tried this everywhere - and got NOTHING to cut out. Even manhandling the wires.

 

[shimmilou]

Where the red wire connects to the bridge volume pot, that looks like a poor solder joint that should be redone. It must be heated so the solder on the lug and the wire flow together.

 

[BabyDracula]

Where the red wire connects to the bridge volume pot, that looks like a poor solder joint that should be redone. It must be heated so the solder on the lug and the wire flow together.

So the picture is a little deceiving... I reconnected this wire first and have tugged on and tapped on the connect it to make sure it's secure - while open, nothing happens.
Then when I put the plate on, it went out. I can't seem to recreate this cutting out it's open. It's the weirdest thing.

I will again resolder that jointand clean it up the mess that was there.

However, would this make BOTH pickups stop working temporarily?

 

[shimmilou]

No, but start with your original bridge problem first, process of elimination. Solder joints can be physically secure, but cold and not a good electrical connection. You still might have another issue too.