Who Else Chose a SE over a Core?

[Paul B]

My SE Standard 24-08 is so close to my core CU24 2008 vintage that I have become an SE believer. After playing my son’s core Silver Sky recently, I had another GAS attack. It is an amazing instrument, but out of my price range. I have ordered an SE Silver Sky in confidence it will amaze me, and leave $ for a better amp.

 

[dogrocketp]

The bottom line is to indeed, find the unicorn guitars that really get your motor humming. Unfortunately, with PRS, I’ve been able to find some in every line. Oh well, that’s why I have only PRS. And maybe I have more than I should……..

 

[Mike J.]

I've never tried a Core model. They're probably amazing instruments but I'm retired and am on a limited income so something like a Core is out of the question.

But a few weeks ago I did buy a SE Standard 24 and I really like this guitar. The Wide Thin neck is perfect for my hands. Needed a little work (as they all do) so I installed Schaller locking tuners and just got it back yesterday from a tech who touched up the nut slots because the strings were binding a little bit.

While the Schallers and the touch up of the nut slots helped tremendously the guitar doesn't quite come back to pitch when I use the bar. And believe me, I'm not abusing the bar either. Just little bends here and there. But one reviewer of this same model on YouTube said it takes a while to work the bar in so that things will return to pitch. That may be true, so I'm making a point of moving the back back and forth a lot when I'm done practicing for the day trying to "work it in." Last night I did that for about a good 10 minutes. So time will tell if that works or not.

But I love the feel and the tones I'm getting from this guitar. Quite the looker too with the Cherry finish!

 

[Birdsofprey]

^ It doesn’t come back to tune because it needs a new nut not a massaging of the factory nut. Tuning stability is a 99% nut issue. It’s not going to fix itself over time. New nut equals no worries.

 

[Mike J.]

^ It doesn’t come back to tune because it needs a new nut not a massaging of the factory nut. Tuning stability is a 99% nut issue. It’s not going to fix itself over time. New nut equals no worries.

Sir, now that you've got my attention, what nut material would you recommend? I admit I don't know what would be best.

Thanks.

 

[Birdsofprey]

You could use bone, tusq synthetic bone or graph tech. Your tech will have access to these. All good choice.

 

[aamefford]

I didn’t read back in the thread, but I’ve had good success with some kind of nut lube in each nut slot and bridge and string contact point. I tried to get some on the bridge knife edges also, though I’m not sure I ever got any there. Mine was an SE custom 22, so real similar to yours. It was solid with all of that, as long as I wasn’t doing EVH divebombs.

 

[Mike J.]

You could use bone, tusq synthetic bone or graph tech. Your tech will have access to these. All good choice.

Thank you for the suggestions! Much appreciated!

 

[aamefford]

Another thought is if you went up in string gage?

 

[Mike J.]

I didn’t read back in the thread, but I’ve had good success with some kind of nut lube in each nut slot and bridge and string contact point. I tried to get some on the bridge knife edges also, though I’m not sure I ever got any there. Mine was an SE custom 22, so real similar to yours. It was solid with all of that, as long as I wasn’t doing EVH divebombs.

I also applied the Big Bends Sauce on the saddles and in each of the nut slots.

I just had an idea to check on something. I have a dial indicator and various stands. If I could somehow lightly clamp the guitar down I'd like to try and get the indicator set up on various points on the bridge. Get it set to zero, move the bar and see what kind of reading I get when I bring the bridge back to it's "home" position. Should tell me if the bridge is repeating. Seems like it should but you never know. If the indicator doesn't return to zero then that could be a whole different issue.

Just gotta think this through as far as clamping the guitar and not damaging anything. Time to rumage through my materials!

 

[Draconomics]

I wouldnt say out of the box I prefer SE's over cores, but once I do the whole refit job on an SE, which includes setup, nut change, replacing saddles on trem equipped models, swap out input jack, and put new pickups in there, the difference is almost nil at that point. Now of course all that is gonna be some cheddar for those that dont want to do it themselves or don't know how, but even if you paid for all that, its still a bargain. I mean....look at it this way:

A core PRS is gonna be 4k new. I can buy a new SE for...let's say the Paul's model at 1k. I invest say...$500 (which is what I put into my PG SE) in all the items I want to get it as close to a core as I can (hardware, tuners, fret refinish/polish, jack installation, pickups). I will eventually get 95% the guitar for about 37% the price.

In the immortal words of that dude from Robocop, "I'll buy that for a dollar".

 

[Mike J.]

Another thought is if you went up in string gage?

I was thinking about making a slight change.

Right now I'm using EB's Hybrid Slinky's 9-11-16-26-36-46.
Wondering about the EB's Turbo Slinky's 9.5-12-16-26-36-46

Granted, it's not much of a change but I was considering it. But such a slight change may not make one bit of difference.

I'm using EB's Regular Slinky's on my Vela. 10-13-17-26-36-46. Some days it's very hard trying to bend those 3 upper strings.
I've had hard, manual labor jobs for most of my working years. My hands don't hurt but all that work took a toll. Got a stiffness in my fingers (not too bad) and I'm constantly doing hand and finger exercises to keep as limber as I can.

Let's face facts: I'm also 70 years old! Like it or not, Old Man Time can get you in one form or another!