Very inexpensive BRW switch tip!!

D

docbennett

Banned
Joined
Apr 27, 2012
Messages
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So..those "NOS" Modern Eagles come with plastic switch tips. Hmmph.

There's a temporary solution for that....

Here is the formula....



This:

100_5959.jpg


Plus this:

100_5962.jpg


Equals this:

100_5960.jpg


100_5961.jpg


All the "imperfections" are greatly exaggerated from this extreme macro close up.
From about 12 inches away, I can't tell the difference between my bogus one and my real ones. If you use your imagination, you can even see the grain lines of the BRW. :laugh:
 
Bennett, PRS created your "BRW" neck the very same way!

So you have a perfect match.

;)
 
Is this what I am going to have to do to get the pick-up rings in a black color instead of the cream on my Black Gold burst P22? :408mt:I would much rather have the black! 10 top is kinda detracted from just because of the starkness of the only white peice on the guitar....
 
What's wrong with you people? lol
You probably spent more on the Sharpie than you would on a new switch tip. :biggrin:
 
Actually, BRW switch tips can be relatively expensive. The Sharpie was a fraction of the cost. And, not to mention, the fun of coloring it in! :biggrin:
 
docbennett said:
Actually, BRW switch tips can be relatively expensive. The Sharpie was a fraction of the cost. And, not to mention, the fun of coloring it in! :biggrin:
Click to expand...

On a personal level, I honestly think that the traditional plastic part is way cooler than the pampered poodle fancy wooden part stuff. But painting it yourself? I'm on board. ;)

I'm going to have to find a Testor's set and some Q-tips and paint flames on my guitars like I did on my plastic models when I was a little kid. I was always losing the paint brushes...
 
LSchefman said:
On a personal level, I honestly think that the traditional plastic part is way cooler than the pampered poodle fancy wooden part stuff. But painting it yourself? I'm on board. ;)

I'm going to have to find a Testor's set and some Q-tips and paint flames on my guitars like I did on my plastic models when I was a little kid. I was always losing the paint brushes...
Click to expand...

Remember those 15 cent bottles of Testors? I did the aurora "Universal Pictures Monster" Models....Frankenstein, Wolfman, Mummy, Dracula, Phantom, Creature, Hunchback..... even the "Land of the Giants" and a few others I can't remember right now. Never liked the cars and boats very much.

Painting the parts before glueing them was the sure sign of an expert!! And, those were the days that it was difficult to buy the model cement....too many people were sniffing it so they used to keep it behind the counter and only sold it with model purchases.

I feel like Joe Franklin going down "memory lane".
 
docbennett said:
Remember those 15 cent bottles of Testors? I did the aurora "Universal Pictures Monster" Models....Frankenstein, Wolfman, Mummy, Dracula, Phantom, Creature, Hunchback..... even the "Land of the Giants" and a few others I can't remember right now. Never liked the cars and boats very much.

Painting the parts before glueing them was the sure sign of an expert!! And, those were the days that it was difficult to buy the model cement....too many people were sniffing it so they used to keep it behind the counter and only sold it with model purchases.

I feel like Joe Franklin going down "memory lane".
Click to expand...

I remember those little square bottles well.

I liked cars, planes and boats; you could play with them after they were built, and they were realistic; I felt the monster stuff was for littler kids (my younger brothers liked them). I did like the Aurora armored knight models, because the Detroit Museum of Art had a wonderful armor collection that fascinated me. No one was sniffing glue yet when I was a kid; I predate that era.
 
docbennett said:
Remember those 15 cent bottles of Testors? I did the aurora "Universal Pictures Monster" Models....Frankenstein, Wolfman, Mummy, Dracula, Phantom, Creature, Hunchback..... even the "Land of the Giants" and a few others I can't remember right now. Never liked the cars and boats very much.

Painting the parts before glueing them was the sure sign of an expert!! And, those were the days that it was difficult to buy the model cement....too many people were sniffing it so they used to keep it behind the counter and only sold it with model purchases.

I feel like Joe Franklin going down "memory lane".
Click to expand...

I really liked making airplanes and especially liked making crash landing dioramas. I can't say how many times I burned myself playing with matches and contact cement.
 
Examples of what kept a 9 year old boy very busy when "The Monkees" wasn't on TV....


adracula_model.jpg
ping




ping


frankenstein_model.jpg
ping


aurora2.jpg
ping
 
docbennett said:
Examples of what kept a 9 year old boy very busy when "The Monkees" wasn't on TV....


adracula_model.jpg
ping

ping
Click to expand...
Wow, saw that and had an immediate flashback. I made that same model maybe 40 years ago. OK, back to your normally scheduled program.
 
OK, so once again I'm going to get into the subject of plastic, which by the way, the paint on your switch tip consists of, Bennett.

So...let's say you have a traditional nitro finished guitar, and you're thinking, "I gotta get rid of this plastic trim, because I hate plastic. And MY guitar is nitro finished, not dipped in some kind of plastic." Ha!

Well, start by stripping the paint, because of course, nitrocellulose lacquer is the ORIGINAL plastic paint. Nitro lacquer is nitrocellulose plastic binder goop and a solvent. In the case of nitro, the solvent evaporates, and leaves a nice solid film of...yes...plastic on your guitar. Its a pretty unstable plastic, of course, because it still reacts to a lot of chemicals, even after drying, and the industry says its useful life is about two years. So it isn't very dependable plastic, but there you have it. It's still plastic. Your guitar is coated with it. Nitrocellulose was used to create pool balls, plastic knobs, combs, shirt collars, and...explosives. Same stuff. Just a matter of how it's used.

And if you have a poly or V12 PRS, of course, that's a plastic film, too. Fact is, modern guitar paints generally use plastic as a binder.

So after you get over the fact that your guitar's body is encased in a plastic coating, we get to the plastic trim rings, switch tips, and other doodaddery. They're molded plastic intended to look like ivory, or perhaps ebony.

If you want ebony doodads, I say, go for real ebony. It has very little grain, most of it's dyed to appear more uniformly black anyway, and it doesn't clash with the fine tops on the guitars as much as the rosewood or worse, maple, trim that I see people using. Ivory you will have a hard time finding, as most of it's illegal.

Then there are the chrome plated plastic trim pieces. What's the point? It's still plastic, it's not metal, leave well enough alone and just live with the fake ivory stuff.

As for me, I love plastic fake ivory. Just seeing it makes my day, because when I see it, it's on my guitars, and that means I'm getting ready to play music! But keys on modern keyboards are also plastic, so I'm used to the stuff. Why, I even have a plastic toilet seat that I'm NOT tempted to replace with a rosewood one.

I know! It's a good thing that my rear end only touches real plastic, not that splintery wood stuff!

Now, if you wanted to cover a switch tip in a nice, noir leather... ;)
 
Last edited:
LSchefman said:
OK, so once again I'm going to get into the subject of plastic, which by the way, the paint on your switch tip consists of, Bennett.

So...let's say you have a traditional nitro finished guitar, and you're thinking, "I gotta get rid of this plastic trim, because I hate plastic. And MY guitar is nitro finished, not dipped in some kind of plastic." Ha!

Well, start by stripping the paint, because of course, nitrocellulose lacquer is the ORIGINAL plastic paint. Nitro lacquer is nitrocellulose plastic binder goop and a solvent. In the case of nitro, the solvent evaporates, and leaves a nice solid film of...yes...plastic on your guitar. Its a pretty unstable plastic, of course, because it still reacts to a lot of chemicals, even after drying, and the industry says its useful life is about two years. So it isn't very dependable plastic, but there you have it. It's still plastic. Your guitar is coated with it. Nitrocellulose was used to create pool balls, plastic knobs, combs, shirt collars, and...explosives. Same stuff. Just a matter of how it's used.

And if you have a poly or V12 PRS, of course, that's a plastic film, too. Fact is, modern guitar paints generally use plastic as a binder.

So after you get over the fact that your guitar's body is encased in a plastic coating, we get to the plastic trim rings, switch tips, and other doodaddery. They're molded plastic intended to look like ivory, or perhaps ebony.

If you want ebony doodads, I say, go for real ebony. It has very little grain, most of it's dyed to appear more uniformly black anyway, and it doesn't clash with the fine tops on the guitars as much as the rosewood or worse, maple, trim that I see people using. Ivory you will have a hard time finding, as most of it's illegal.

Then there are the chrome plated plastic trim pieces. What's the point? It's still plastic, it's not metal, leave well enough alone and just live with the fake ivory stuff.

As for me, I love plastic fake ivory. Just seeing it makes my day, because when I see it, it's on my guitars, and that means I'm getting ready to play music! But keys on modern keyboards are also plastic, so I'm used to the stuff. Why, I even have a plastic toilet seat that I'm NOT tempted to replace with a rosewood one.

I know! It's a good thing that my rear end only touches real plastic, not that splintery wood stuff!

Now, if you wanted to cover a switch tip in a nice, noir leather... ;)
Click to expand...

"I've got one word for you, Benjamin....Plastics!!"

FullPlastics11.jpg
 
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