Tuning ....even GC cant figgure this one

Discussion in 'Electric Instruments' started by captdg, Oct 24, 2012.

  1. cobrafast1

    cobrafast1 Don - Studio Musician

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    Beware: Some tuners have the ability to tune off key by a few cents. This can make it tune sharpe or flat to be sync'd with other instruments. If you did a battery change or anything suspicious, you might want to reset that turner to factory defaults. Just a thought.
     
  2. captdg

    captdg New Member

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    Lefty loosey , Righty tighty.. when I go clock wise it shortens the string and the pitch gets higher. The fretted note is sharp. The only way I can get it to tune on the 12 fret is to use the tuning nut at the head. Must be the tuner on the Vox Vt 40. Im at my wits end. Thanks Fbrand and pete.And Cobra..
     
  3. _pete_

    _pete_ New Member

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    Tightening the bridge adjustment screw (small allen head screw behind the bridge post) will move the bridge further from the nut, lengthening the string. Move the bridge back, re-tune, and then check the open and 12th fret notes.
     
  4. captdg

    captdg New Member

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    Okay... Thanks for your patience.
     
  5. captdg

    captdg New Member

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    Cobra..should I re intialize my vox? Maybe my tuner will reset too.
     
  6. cobrafast1

    cobrafast1 Don - Studio Musician

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    It is definitely worth a try to reset the tuner; it can't hurt to eliminate that variable. But even if it is offset, you should be able to get the guitar to tune Open and the 12th fret as long as the bridge point is in the right position. Remember, the nut and the frets are fixed position items. Only the bridge contact postion can vary, so that's the adjustment point.

    Just a HINT: On my PRS SE Custom, there are 12.5 " from nut to 12th fret on the D and High E strings. Another 12.5 to the bridge point where the string hits it + or - just a bit for the compensation factor for the diameter of the string and whether it's wound or open. The Low E string will need to be a little longer than the A string next to it. The D string is a little shorter than the A String..( this is the one that should be equal to the Nut to 12th fret distance. Then the G string is about the same length as the Low E. Then the B string is shorter than the G string. And the high E string is shorter than the B string next to it. But the High E string is again double the distance from nut to 12th fret.

    Visually, this is a good place to start.

    Try measuring on the D string from the nut to the bridge point of contact. Take half of that distance and compare to the disitance from the nut to the 12th fret. They should be about equal. High E string is about the same. Then the A and Low E should each progressively get a little longer. Do the same for the High E string. Measure and make nut to 12th fret and 12 fret to bridge contact point equal distances. Then B and G progressively get a bit longer than the one next to it.

    Do that and see if those measurements are about correct and start from that point.

    My Strat is the same way, except the distance from nut to 12th fret is a bit longer by 1/4 " . But the principle and proportion is the same.

    Measure from nut to 12th fret... that's the key distance. Then 12th to bridge should be the same.

    I hope this helps. Good Luck.
     
    #26 cobrafast1, Oct 28, 2012
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2012
  7. cobrafast1

    cobrafast1 Don - Studio Musician

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    Here's another point of interest. If you are using the string sizes that the guitar was originally built for, then you're ahead of the game. If you changed and went from .009's to .010's, then maybe the nut might be your problem. The string is too big for the nut groove. This will definitely cause some tuning problems and make the strings go out of tune as you bend and stretch the strings. The grip on the string at the nut will not let the tension reset to its normal tension. Therefore out of tune.

    Also, if you change string sizes, one should change the tension spring in the tremelo mechanism to compensate.

    Just some added thoughts.
     
  8. Poffypoffa

    Poffypoffa New Member

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    I also would try a real tuner, as opposed to the tuner in your amp. For tuning, it's fine, but intonating is more exact.
     
  9. cobrafast1

    cobrafast1 Don - Studio Musician

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    I agree with that. I use a Sabine RT-1600 rackmount unit. Very accurate and all sorts of tuning options and offsets, if one is desiring that. I use it basically in the default mode and it's always right on the money.
     
  10. captdg

    captdg New Member

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    as I posted..Success!!! Thanks to all !!
     
  11. captdg

    captdg New Member

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    #31 captdg, Oct 31, 2012
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2012
  12. Mikegarveyblues

    Mikegarveyblues Cream Crackered

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    That first vid is ok but he's giving the impression that action is set by the truss rod with his example. It's part of the equation for sure but not as he portrays it unless you're going to extremes. He also keeps referring to quarter turns of the truss whilst only making 1/8th turns.

    1/4 turn is too much IMHO.

    Second vid is very good.
     
  13. Brad737

    Brad737 This space for rent...

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    That's Orkie, Paul's original assistant.
     
  14. captdg

    captdg New Member

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    Poffy gave me a great nugget on a feeler gauge. I have learned a great deal from this thread..This A.M. woke up, became herbally fortified(a cup of herbal tea ,heh heh) and played "Bridge of Sighs" with a side of fuzz and flanger,and raised hell, generally............thanks. thanks. thanks. I even did Trower's facial contortions and THAT is why I love guitar..And thanks to Cobra..
     
    #34 captdg, Nov 4, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2012
  15. Poffypoffa

    Poffypoffa New Member

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    I stole the idea from Dan Erlewine. :). His book on guitar setup and maintenance is well worth owning.
     

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