Tuning and Lubrication

Craig Jordan

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Joined
Jun 26, 2016
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Hello All,

I just received my first PRS guitar-a McCarty 594 artist package in copperhead. I am wondering if any of you have used any lubricants on the nut or contact points on the bridge saddles to help with tuning stability. It seems this guitar is perfect for bending and can easily be pushed to 1 1/2 or 2 step bends. Also, what are your recommendations for polishing the nitro finish? Thanks for any insights you can share.
 
I don't use lubricants, because I find the tuning on PRS guitars very stable. But if you find you need them, heck, you're not going to kill the guitar if you decide to use them.

The finish on the guitar isn't nitro, it's V12, which is a proprietary finish developed by PRS to be a lot like nitro. The Private Stock guitars are available in nitro, but V12 doesn't require nitro-safe polishes, and you don't have to worry about the finish checking as with nitro.

I'm of the belief that the less abrasive polishing you do to a guitar, the longer the finish will last. So mainly I just use a damp microfiber cloth, and follow that up with a clean, dry microfiber cloth. I recommend the thick, fluffy ones available from Griot's garage, as the long fibers absorb dirt and moisture very well, and won't mess with the finish (even cotton will abrade a finish - find a clear CD case and rub it hard with cotton, then try it with a good microfiber, you'll see a difference).

https://www.griotsgarage.com/produc...+set+of+3.do?sortby=ourPicks&refType=&from=fn

However, minor swirl marks, etc., can be buffed out to a high shine with Virtuoso polish, which is a very mild abrasive polish, and for heavier needs the Meguiar's New Car Glaze is very effective stuff - and they have polishes with progressively more abrasive for very heavy needs, but I haven't ever needed anything more.

To simply give the guitar a nice shine, the PRS Cleaner is really good. I spray a small amount on a microfiber cloth, and it gives the guitar a nice shine. Maybe I'll use it when I change strings, but honestly, the finish stays so nice looking with just the usual damp cloth cleaning, that it isn't truly necessary.

I personally found the PRS polish a little too abrasive for my needs when I tried it years ago, it seemed to be the typical guitar polish that so many companies put their label on, but that may have changed.
 
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Yes. This should have the V12 finish. I think retailers do customers a disservice when they re-post the specs of a Private Stock guitar under the corresponding core model.

I use the PRS Cleaner around once per week if I play the guitar daily.

Remember that 'polish' products, in general, for cars and guitars are actually meant to remove the very superficial layer of finish to reveal a newer looking finish underneath. I have seen people overuse polishes for years on their cars and nearly work their way through the paint layers. Please use polishes sparingly. (I haven't felt the need to use polishes on my guitars yet)

Kevin
 
I use my trem a lot and they work pretty well but I do use lube on the nut slots. You can use big bends nut sauce or other simular products.

I use chap stick on the nut slots. Prs says to use light machine oil on trem screws but I haven't done that.

Since you have a non trem guitar, I would do nothing more than keep it clean.
 
I thought the nuts were self-lubricating..........??


They are self lubricating but I get pretty aggressive with my trem and I just want the extra lube. I don't want to have my guitar go out of tune after thrashing my trem........definite mojo killer!
 
For over 40 years, I have used powdered graphite. I little on each bridge saddle and the nut slots when I change strings, and a quick blow to remove the excess from the guitar. Never had a problem. ymmv
 
For over 40 years, I have used powdered graphite. I little on each bridge saddle and the nut slots when I change strings, and a quick blow to remove the excess from the guitar. Never had a problem. ymmv
Thank you for your insight. Are you using a pencil or is there a powdered graphite available that is easy to apply?
 
Thank you for your insight. Are you using a pencil or is there a powdered graphite available that is easy to apply?
There is a powdered graphite available. It is typically used for sticky keys and doorlocks. I have found mine at a local auto parts store. It can come in a squeezable tube, so be careful not to squeeze too hard so that it doesn't go where you don't want it to go. It could be applied with a toothpick or something like that.
 
There is a powdered graphite available. It is typically used for sticky keys and doorlocks. I have found mine at a local auto parts store. It can come in a squeezable tube, so be careful not to squeeze too hard so that it doesn't go where you don't want it to go. It could be applied with a toothpick or something like that.

This. You can find it at hardware stores, or the big box places (Home Depot, etc) too. Tooth pick is good, or a small model paint brush. Meaning a small paint brush from way back in the days when you used to glue model planes, tanks, etc. together
 
There is a powdered graphite available. It is typically used for sticky keys and doorlocks. I have found mine at a local auto parts store. It can come in a squeezable tube, so be careful not to squeeze too hard so that it doesn't go where you don't want it to go. It could be applied with a toothpick or something like that.
Thanks, I'll give it a try.
 
I use powdered graphite or a graphite 0.7mm pencil plus Nut Sauce at the nut and just the Nut Sauce on the bridge. I can say for sure that I get better stability with big bends and trem use with the lubricants.
 
I think bone nut is better, actually.

I've heard more than one person say that the self-lubricating nut grooves (particularly the D or G slot) widen relatively quicken compared to other nuts, meriting a replacement.

Can you buy the PRS self-lubricating nuts from PRS?
 
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