Tru-oil on a PRS

[JJJ]

Now for something completely different...

You may recall I bought a worn old ce22 recently and it had a crack in the neck pocket - I sent it away to be repaired. Turns out, as bad as it looked, it's not a crack in the timber so that's a win

I did want to have a chip in the neck finish repaired while it was there having a setup, which proved difficult as the lacquer from the factory is very thin and easy to sand through so we went a different route.

The factory finish is preserved on the headstock and heel. The shaft where the fresh timber is exposed was sanded back, removing the dings and has had a few coats of tru oil and a rub down. The ends were blended into the factory nitro with some fresh tinted lacquer.

Hard to tell from the photos but it now feels just like raw timber that has been polished. Smoothest feeling ever, not sticky in the slightest, the transition can't be felt with the hand and looks just like an old neck that has been played heaps. the fretboard edges also feel much nicer than they did

If you're refinishing any necks I'd suggest to give this stuff a go. This is the nicest feeling neck finish ever. No wax like the ernie ball stuff, just the oil and a rub down with steel wool.

 

[elvis]

Mmmmmm... Emerald

 

[garrettb]

Cool! Looks well done. I'm in the process of finishing a roasted maple neck (not PRS obviously) with Tru Oil now. I've done two coats and a rub with 0000 steel wool so far. Back of the neck feels like silk.

 

[jcolmn]

I certainly am no expert, but I have owned a few NF3, DC3, Brent Mason and some CEs. The CEs seem to have some type of lacquer finish. The NF3 types seem to have Tru Oil or some other hardening varnish as the finish. PRS always described it as "the finish is in the wood".

I always loved the NF3 neck and I had a Roasted Maple strat neck that loved but had that stinky roasted maple smell that I couldn't get beyond. Smooth as silk but smelly. I hit it with several coats of Tru Oil, sanding in between with Tru Oil soaked sandpaper and there it was. Eureka moment. Felt very close to my NF3.

 

[gush]

Love emerald

 

[garrettb]

I certainly am no expert, but I have owned a few NF3, DC3, Brent Mason and some CEs. The CEs seem to have some type of lacquer finish. The NF3 types seem to have Tru Oil or some other hardening varnish as the finish. PRS always described it as "the finish is in the wood".

I always loved the NF3 neck and I had a Roasted Maple strat neck that loved but had that stinky roasted maple smell that I couldn't get beyond. Smooth as silk but smelly. I hit it with several coats of Tru Oil, sanding in between with Tru Oil soaked sandpaper and there it was. Eureka moment. Felt very close to my NF3.

I'm assuming that roasted maple smell will go away in time? So far, after I handle my neck, my hands smell like burnt wood for a while.

I think I've read that the finish they used on the NF3 etc. is some sort of UV cured finish. In pics older ones for sale, the ones that played have some gray areas, so it must be thin.

 

[JJJ]

Cool! Looks well done. I'm in the process of finishing a roasted maple neck (not PRS obviously) with Tru Oil now. I've done two coats and a rub with 0000 steel wool so far. Back of the neck feels like silk.

Well for reference this has 3 coats and it feels like a good hard finish. I have read about people doing just 1, and others doing more than 10. I guess you just go until it feels 'right' or looks how you want it cos you can achieve a real gloss or a raw feel.

The luthier who did this does top notch work. He did this blended finish on a tele previously

Btw roasted timbers from what I know need less protection so you could get away with less coats if you like the raw feel

 

[JJJ]

Y

I certainly am no expert, but I have owned a few NF3, DC3, Brent Mason and some CEs. The CEs seem to have some type of lacquer finish. The NF3 types seem to have Tru Oil or some other hardening varnish as the finish. PRS always described it as "the finish is in the wood".

I always loved the NF3 neck and I had a Roasted Maple strat neck that loved but had that stinky roasted maple smell that I couldn't get beyond. Smooth as silk but smelly. I hit it with several coats of Tru Oil, sanding in between with Tru Oil soaked sandpaper and there it was. Eureka moment. Felt very close to my NF3.

Yep CEs are nitro and the modern ones might still be too I think.

Nothing wrong with the finish, i think it was just a bit tired and i generally find nitro necks sticky when they gloss up

 

[garrettb]

Well for reference this has 3 coats and it feels like a good hard finish. I have read about people doing just 1, and others doing more than 10. I guess you just go until it feels 'right' or looks how you want it cos you can achieve a real gloss or a raw feel.

The luthier who did this does top notch work. He did this blended finish on a tele previously

Btw roasted timbers from what I know need less protection so you could get away with less coats if you like the raw feel

Thanks, I was going to ask how many coats he did. I just did coat 3 on my roasted neck and will probably stop there. It's really just there for the appearance and to keep it from getting grimy.

 

[bodia]

I'm assuming that roasted maple smell will go away in time? So far, after I handle my neck, my hands smell like burnt wood for a while.

I think I've read that the finish they used on the NF3 etc. is some sort of UV cured finish. In pics older ones for sale, the ones that played have some gray areas, so it must be thin.

I'd say what they did on the NF3 and what they are doing on maple necks today are different. Actually, in 2014 and 2015. I have two maple necks on WL guitars that have the "satin in maple" finish. There is definitely something there, but it feels close to bare wood. I was surprised when the NF3 showed up a month ago that the neck feels completely bare. Definitely different from the other two. Unless it's just from lots of playing....

 

[bodia]

Now for something completely different...

You may recall I bought a worn old ce22 recently and it had a crack in the neck pocket - I sent it away to be repaired. Turns out, as bad as it looked, it's not a crack in the timber; it couldn't be physically manipulated and it would not accept any glue so that's a win

I did want to have a chip in the neck finish repaired while it was there having a setup, which proved difficult as the lacquer from the factory is very thin and easy to sand through. I didn't like the finish too much in the first place as it felt a little sticky at times, and was damaged (and poor time of year for a respray) so we went a different route.

The factory finish is preserved on the headstock and heel. The shaft where the fresh timber is exposed was sanded back, removing the dings and has had a few coats of tru oil and a rub down. The ends were blended into the factory nitro with some fresh tinted lacquer.

Hard to tell from the photos but it now feels just like raw timber that has been polished extensively. Smoothest feeling ever, not sticky in the slightest, the transition can't be felt with the hand and looks just like an old neck that has been played heaps. the fretboard edges also feel much nicer than they did

If you're refinishing any necks I'd suggest to give this stuff a go, the internet hype over the years is justified. This is the nicest feeling neck finish ever. No wax like the ernie ball stuff, just the oil and a rub down with steel wool.

That looks great! I love a good Tru-oil neck!

 

[JJJ]

Mmmmmm... Emerald

Love emerald

See the thing is, now I'm thinking of having the clear coat removed and tru oil done over the top. As shown in the photo at the top, the finish has clouded a bit on the lower horn and in a couple of other spots which is not unusual for this era if they're been mistreated. But I wonder if the top would do well if the clear was replaced with a tru oil finish... It brought figure out in the neck that was not visible under lacquer.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

I’d be interested to know how well tru-oil copes with the friction of frequent contact on the neck.

I have a luthier friend who tru-oils his acoustics and the finish looks amazing!

 

[JJJ]

I’d be interested to know how well tru-oil copes with the friction of frequent contact on the neck.

I have a luthier friend who tru-oils his acoustics and the finish looks amazing!

You mean in terms of longevity? I was advised the finish would wear as I play, and especially at the fretboard edges and the neck will eventually feel even more like raw timber, but the timber will still be sealed and this was a one-time finish. I assume the only way to actually expose timber so that it is fresh and unsealed is to sand it all off like a regular lacquer

 

[Alnus Rubra]

You mean in terms of longevity? I was advised the finish would wear as I play, and especially at the fretboard edges and the neck will eventually feel even more like raw timber, but the timber will still be sealed and this was a one-time finish. I assume the only way to actually expose timber so that it is fresh and unsealed is to sand it all off like a regular lacquer

I’m also interested in the feel of your hands are sweaty. Does the finish feel sticky?

 

[JJJ]

I’m also interested in the feel of your hands are sweaty. Does the finish feel sticky?

Ahh. No not at all. This is why I think it's the best thing ever!

 

[Alnus Rubra]

Ahh. No not at all. This is why I think it's the best thing ever!

Brilliant.

It’s so easy to add extra coats and repair as well! A very user friendly finish.

 

[JJJ]

Brilliant.

It’s so easy to add extra coats and repair as well! A very user friendly finish.

I thought I would add, if it helps, this finish had at least a week to cure. I believe the first coat was applied like two weeks before I picked the guitar up. I have read about people putting coats on too thick and the finish feeling tacky so just something to watch for I guess. The wisdom seems to be thin coats and steel wool

 

[Matte82]

FWIW I have refinished a couple of guitars with an oil finish. I haven't used tru-oil, but instead Crimson Guitars oil finish. I love it. Supposedly it's just a bit thinner than tru-oil so it gets into the wood a bit more, and is easier to apply. I've considered refinishing my McCarty soapbar with it. There are a few chips in the edge, and one is right under my right arm. So the wood binding is getting "dingy" looking from playing it. Right now I'm living with it, but I probably will do it at some point. Not worried about resale, as I love this guitar. And so far in my experience I much prefer the feel of the oil finish. It's just so smooth.

 

[merciful-evans]

We all have our preferences. I prefer a gloss varnish on my necks. The minimal nitro silk finish on my CE24 neck is something I am not too keen on. I wouldn't bother changing it. Its just a minor quibble.