Tremol-No install Ques?

lgk1208

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Ok, I got a new SE CU 24 and also a new Tremol-no(large clamp). Opened up back cover to notice that the new tremol-no claw has a wider screw spacing than the stock claw. The stock is about 1 5/64" O/C and the Tremol-no is about 1 11/64" O/C. A diference of about 3/16". So the new screw holes will be just outside of the old ones(really close). Anyone else install one? What did you do?
Thanx in advance:shakehands:
 
I have one on my USA Custom 22 but the holes lined up for me. (mine's a pin version which was the only one circa early 2007, I filed down the pin to make it work). They must use a different clamp for a SE. Have you contacted the Tremol-no company to ask about this?

Tremolono.jpg
 
Ok, I got a new SE CU 24 and also a new Tremol-no(large clamp). Opened up back cover to notice that the new tremol-no claw has a wider screw spacing than the stock claw. The stock is about 1 5/64" O/C and the Tremol-no is about 1 11/64" O/C. A diference of about 3/16". So the new screw holes will be just outside of the old ones(really close). Anyone else install one? What did you do? Thanx in advance:shakehands:
I hadn't heard of this product before. I'm curious as to why you want to use it. Do you have a tuning stability issue or is there some other benefit?
 
I installed one on my Tremonti SE Custom.
Had to dowel and redrill for the new trem claw.
Not a big deal but it made an "easy install"a little more time consuming.
Good product though ... works like a charm! :)

Victek,
The Tremonti SE Custom has a floating trem.
The Tremol-no enables me to "block" it so it only functions in "dive only" position.
Helps with tuning stability, allows for drop tunings, and is a life saver should you ever break a string. ;)
 
Yeah, I guess you'd have to dowel and re-drill.

The cool thing about the Tremol-No is you can do a full block, down only, or you can disengage it so the trem floats fully. Best of all worlds. I had one on my CU24 and it didn't seem to affect the feel at all. I left the back cover off so I could change "modes" on the fly.
 
OK so I got email back from Tremol-no and they said to either fill old holes with wood glue or dowels and wood glue, then drill new ones. Im ok with that just wanted to make sure I didn't buy wrong one or something.
 
I bought one months ago for my PS Bahama Mama, but so far I've been too afraid to even try installing in fear that I will slip during installation and gouge the back of my guitar. I need to just get over it and do it.
 
I bought one months ago for my PS Bahama Mama, but so far I've been too afraid to even try installing in fear that I will slip during installation and gouge the back of my guitar. I need to just get over it and do it.
Just take all the safety precausions u can. use towels and tape em down if u have too. I pulled the trem springs off and back on and it was alot easier than the Tremol-no video made it look. except I used regular plyers instead of needle nose plyers. it gave me more holding power to the springs. But seriously there wasn't as much tension on the springs as I thought there would be. It was easy.
 
I hadn't heard of this product before. I'm curious as to why you want to use it. Do you have a tuning stability issue or is there some other benefit?
In my case, I was new to PRS and the stoptail was outside of what I felt was comfortable at the time (though once used to it, it's great), so I bought a trem model and wanted to block it to make it a hardtail. Rather than go with a home remedy on such a nice guitar, I wanted something nicer, and the Tremol-no fit the bill. I only unlock it during setups and such.
 
Just take all the safety precausions u can. use towels and tape em down if u have too. I pulled the trem springs off and back on and it was alot easier than the Tremol-no video made it look. except I used regular plyers instead of needle nose plyers. it gave me more holding power to the springs. But seriously there wasn't as much tension on the springs as I thought there would be. It was easy.
This is great to hear. I need to just take the chance and plan for the worst. Part of my dilemma is that I have a tremor in both hands which really acts up when attempting to use fine motor skills. If I could install it with a hammer I'd be good to go.
 
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Reviving the thread :)
Does anyone know if the Tremol-no (large clamp) system works for the PRS SE Custom 24 2016 models, or if one still needs to drill new wholes because of the spacing...? Also, would you say that locking tuners would be an important addition if using the Tremol-no or that, if things were working well beforehand without the Tremol-no, that they should as well be fine with the Tremol-no?
 
I've abandoned the tremol no system altogether. Mine, after a wile was squeaking and even though I used wd40, I did not like the friction. Plus the screws kept falling out.. I'm now using the FU tone system, and I love it.
 
I have a Super Vee Mag-Lok I keep meaning to install on my SECU24. Been playing my non trems more tho.
 
I think the FU system makes sense too, if you want dive only option. seems a much sturdier, less problem prone, solution. Plus, it seems easy enough to install. Did you move the springs to two on one side and one on the other *I.fu.II*, or could you do it between two springs. On my SE Custom 24, the springs were places one after another *I.I.I* in the cavity?
 
Reviving the thread :)
Does anyone know if the Tremol-no (large clamp) system works for the PRS SE Custom 24 2016 models, or if one still needs to drill new wholes because of the spacing...? Also, would you say that locking tuners would be an important addition if using the Tremol-no or that, if things were working well beforehand without the Tremol-no, that they should as well be fine with the Tremol-no?

I installed one on a 2016 SE Standard and ran into the hole spacing issue. Since my guitar and yours are different models and built in different factories I don't know for sure, but I'd guess you'll have the same issue. I had that issue and another one, the claw for the Tremol-No is not as wide as the stock claw and requires longer screws to keep the spring tension the same. Because of this, mine didn't really line up right and I have since gone back to stock. The dowel and re-drill method would work for me, but I had another idea I may try. I had the thought of installing a wood block with the stock hole spacing that would be the same width (or close) as the difference in width between the stock claw and Tremol-No claw. Then I could drill holes in that block with the same spacing as the Tremol-No holes and use the stock screws.
 
cheers for the feedback on experience. i am thinking tremol-no is not the best option really. thinking abou a dive-only tremolo blocker alternative.
 
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