Trem on SE vs Core

[jkornel]

So I have a core CU24 which is my main guitar, and I have a 2018 SE CU24 that I absolutely love. The SE feels great and has an amazing neck. The only issue I have is that on the SE when I use the trem bar at all it goes out of tune. I have locking tuners and have it set up great but that trem just doesn't return to tune as solid as my core does (the core I couldn't put out of tune if I tried!)

Question is, is there something I can adjust to make this guitar more stable when using the trem? Different springs? adjustment to the trem? Nut issues maybe?

Let me know your thoughts.

 

[theDeepender]

I shouldn’t be responding probably, but my story is loosely related to your question.
When I got my SE Custom 24, it only took me a couple of sessions to fall out of love with floating trems. Admittedly, I think too much about stuff. So, after having to go through tuning several times to get all of the strings in tune (every adjustment changing the pitch on all of the other properly prestretched strings) and having to retune after every trem use and/or string bend, I decided that a system that relied on a perfect balance of every string against the trem springs was not for me. Maybe I’m too anal. I know that’s true. My wife keeps reminding me. But I blocked the trem and I’ve been happy ever since. I think I could live with a trem that returned against a solid neutral point, but the floater just isn’t me.

That said, I hope you get a good usable answer.

 

[bodia]

If you haven’t replaced the nut, I’d start there.

 

[DISTORT6]

Locking tuners only lock the string. Not the tuning.

 

[sergiodeblanc]

In my experience the bare minimum replacements to make an SE trem equipped guitar comparable to a Core PRS is: proper nut, proper tuners, proper trem block, and proper mounting screws.

The materials and tolerances are light years away from each other on purpose.

 

[Russ73]

My S2s have the SE trem and return to tune no issue...so I would look into the nut as mentioned above...the S2 has a good nut that might be the difference ...you said you have locking tuners already...

 

[dogrocketp]

2 of my SE’s have stock trems that stay beautifully in tune. They both had the nuts professionally replaced. Start there. I do have locking tuners on everything, but that’s because I change strings a lot.

 

[touch33]

Locking tuners only lock the string. Not the tuning.

Well, yeah — sort of. One of the supposed advantages of locking tuners in general is that they allow you to minimize (or completely eliminate) the number of string wraps around the post, as wraps can increase tuning instability. I have found this to be the case on multiple guitars where I’ve changed to lockers.

 

[SinSir]

as wraps can increase tuning instability

Typically if not done right. Wrap and lock method.

 

[DISTORT6]

Well, yeah — sort of. One of the supposed advantages of locking tuners in general is that they allow you to minimize (or completely eliminate) the number of string wraps around the post, as wraps can increase tuning instability. I have found this to be the case on multiple guitars where I’ve changed to lockers.

It comes down to technique in how you use your tuners. A non-locking tuner can be just as effective if you know how to string them.
There’s no ratcheting mechanism to actually lock in the tuning. That’s the biggest misconception.

 

[TheCraftsman]

Drop a JohnMann Trem in, best thing I did in my CU24-08, still need to tackle the nut and tubers but will have a tech do the nut.

 

[littlebadboy]

I replaced my stock trem one S2 with a Mann and it was a lot better in terms of function and tone.

I noticed in the stock, the saddles were not packed together defeating the design. So, I had some tuning issues too.

From https://support.prsguitars.com/hc/en-us/articles/4408309723419-About-The-PRS-Tremolo
"The pocket PRS tremolo bridge keeps the six individually adjustable saddles from moving sideways, thereby eliminating another traditional cause of tuning instability."

 

[Maertl513]

As mentioned by @bodia: If the nut (and saddles) is not rasped properly (for prefered gauge and action) you could replace the bridge (fixed or vibrato) by the most expensive piece on earth, but it won't offer you - and that is the core demand - either full tuning stability and function.

 

[direwolf08]

I can confirm from my experience with my own SE Custom 24 (the one in my avatar): Reshape or replace and properly file the nut.

My guitar stayed in tune great when I first got it, then I switched from the 9s it came with to 11s and it would constantly fall out of tune with string bends or with light trem wiggling. Sometimes would go out flat, sometimes sharp. All strings did it, but G and B were the worst.

Had my local luthier install and set up a new nut. He uses bone, so I went with that. Just got it back today. I’ve been putting it through its paces and it works great, tuning is nice and stable. Start with replacing the nut before spending a ton on a new trem!

 

[Bobd]

Tune to pitch. Touch the strings behind the nut. Check your tuning again. Try some graphite in the nut slots if out of tune. If still goes out of tune, you need to do some work on the nut...