Thinking about tremelo screw height adjustment

[slyfox]

I have a S2 standard 24 with 11 to 49s on it and action is around 3mm in low E at 12th fret and 2mm on high E. This is mostly a comfortable action for me so I can get my fingers under the strings for bending and eliminate any buzzes or plinkiness as I play primarily lead and tend to pick harder or at least rather deliberately. I wouldn't mind it even a touch lower just as long as there's no plinkiness. I'm rather obsessive compulsive from years of classical guitar playing...any buzz or plink or noise drives me insane.

Since I bought the guitar new, basically out of the box, I have only adjusted the saddle heights using a radius guage to maintain radius and have added truss rod relief incrementally totalling about 1/3rd of a turn has given more or less an agreeable set up for me however there are two reasons why I am thinking about raising the 6 tremelo screws and wanted to inquire here first:

It seems the high E sounds thin, noticeable only when playing unplugged and I suspect it might be due to the higher than normal saddle height. I believe this is the case as I fooled around tweaking action the higher the side was to more shrill or thin the high E was.

Secondly, I do hear a slight...not buzz but perhaps a "plink" on the G string around 19th fret and beyond.

When looking at the height of the bridge between the body of the guitar to the very bottom of the tremelo, it appears it is slightly less than 1/16th of an inch which was supposed to be the factory setting. It is slightly less, and visible that there is not 1/16th in between.

My rationale is that if I raised the tremelo screws so the bridge is precisely 1/16th from the body I would be able to lower the saddles to improve the tone on the treble strings or at least the thinnest E string. At the same time the added height and lowered saddles might take care of the plink on the 19th fret and beyond on the G since any further truss rod adjustment should not affect anything in that register of the neck anyways.

Am I on the right idea to adjust the tremelo screws?

 

[Rod/]

Yes, you’re on the right track….imho…..when I bought my DGT from John Mann new, he does a very precise setup (he’s a metal machinist) and I noticed on the 6 bridge screws that screw into the body that they are all precisely the same height and it all works perfectly and are congruent with the saddle heights…… no buzzing anywhere on the neck at all. And I use 009’s….and I am also a lead guitarist that plays with a controlled but forceful attack when playing solos. The audience never misses hearing any note or bend I’m playing…
remember to watch his video on the proper way to adjust those knife edge screws. It ain’t your typical Fender bridge at all. The video is at his website, John Mann’s Guitar Vault… @John Mann maybe John can add some advise for you

 

[slyfox]

Thanks for your reply. I did see that video before and my question is, seems the knife edges are very precise, wouldn't having the D and G higher cause it to sit uneven across the other knife edges in those tremelo screws? As well, shouldn't the radius be adjusted with the saddles vs the tremelo screws?

Next question is, I understand the tremelo screws can't have any tension if they are being adjusted so the knife edges doesn't break. Is it simply a matter of having the strings off and springs removed behind the back plate, then adjusting each screw evenly, one at a time?

 

[JasonE]

Thanks for your reply. I did see that video before and my question is, seems the knife edges are very precise, wouldn't having the D and G higher cause it to sit uneven across the other knife edges in those tremelo screws? As well, shouldn't the radius be adjusted with the saddles vs the tremelo screws?

Next question is, I understand the tremelo screws can't have any tension if they are being adjusted so the knife edges doesn't break. Is it simply a matter of having the strings off and springs removed behind the back plate, then adjusting each screw evenly, one at a time?

I have adjusted these on a number of guitars. You have to be precise when you do it. Don't go by the top if the screws. Go by the slots in them. Make sure those are lined up. You definitely want to take string tension off. If you loosen all of the strings you should be able to pull the bridge back towards the bottom of the guitar to get the knife edges out of harm's way. If you are having trouble getting it to stay that way, take the springs off of the back of the bridge. Put something between the bridge and the body so you don't scratch the finish on the top of the guitar. The threads on the screws are coarse like a wood screw. You shouldn't have to turn them much. Turn each screw the same amount. I would start with a quarter turn and then hold the bridge in the slots and see how far it came up. A little goes a long way.

 

[slyfox]

I got around to change the strings and removed the springs and strings and did approximately two 1/4 turns and used an Allen key like in the video and got the bridge precisely to 1/16th off the body.

I was able to lower the saddles and add back the backbow and it made all the difference in the world with a little less air between the fretboard and strings and the saddles lower. The feel and playability and tone all improved. Now it feels like it will play itself. Little does go long way.

 

[JasonE]

I got around to change the strings and removed the springs and strings and did approximately two 1/4 turns and used an Allen key like in the video and got the bridge precisely to 1/16th off the body.

I was able to lower the saddles and add back the backbow and it made all the difference in the world with a little less air between the fretboard and strings and the saddles lower. The feel and playability and tone all improved. Now it feels like it will play itself. Little does go long way.

Perfect! I have a swamp ash special that needed this adjustment. It was a little high from the factory. It made all the difference in the world on that guitar too.