The "Official Silver Sky" Thread

As we see multiple posters now complaining about how long a "sold order" takes, perhaps we need to remember that A) they are available in stores, but B) those people ordered theirs months before yours. I think what is ticking people off, is that they have a sold order that isn't taking precedence over a "stock" order. It's not my decision to make... if I had a sold order, I may be ticked at waiting over a year, while seeing them in stores. But if I worked at a store as a salesman and we ordered 5 for stock a year ago and I had people waiting to play/buy them, I'd be ticked to know that some guy who ordered one yesterday was getting his before my stock orders.

One store even told me that he didn't care if every sold order cancelled, because they'd need all those for stock anyway, as so many people wanted to try them out. He was confident that if all his presold orders cancelled, they'd all sell quickly to other buyers once they got there. In fact, he said the most frustrating thing was having so many potential buyers, but never having one in stock for them to try.

The moral of this story: There ain't no way to make everyone happy when there is a backlog. If you're loyal to the store you bought from, wait it out. If not, buy one that's in stock. IMHO

Well said, HC!
 
I bought mine from Lark Guitars in San Antonio. They had like 4-5 hanging on the wall. Played the tungsten one and knew it was coming home. I highly recommend them if anyone is looking to pick one up. Last I checked they have an onyx, horizon, gold and dodgem blue in store.
 
Got a Dodgem blue one last week and I really enjoy it (playability, neck shape, comfort/weight, tone, and color).

What an awesome Str.. j/k.

That's coming from someone who is used to build/assemble his own bolt-on guitars at a fraction of the cost of a USA-made Fender or PRS, using typically much flatter radiuses (10-16" compound typically) and larger frets (6105/6150).
I'm glad I gave it a chance as I had avoided 7.25" radius until now due to pre-conceptions (hard to play, fret out), yet I enjoy the Silver Sky very much.
Sure the flatter the radius the lower the action you can achieve without fretting out for an equal bend, that's just maths. In practice though, for the kind of music I play on this, it's a non issue. I'm at 5/64th at the 17th fret on the E and 2/32" on the e, and I still don't fret out even with large bends.
 
Hey all! Just got my Moc Sand Silver Sky and love it! But I have a quick question. I saw John post on Instagram a while back a pic of his Silver sky with a mint green pickguard. Does anyone know where I might be able to one as well? Any aftermarket companies making them? Thanks!
 
Hello everyone! It's my first post, i bought my silver sky yesterday. It's one of the first 500 models that comes with hardcase. Frost. Love it. But i've got some questions about its set up. And my saddles are little rusty, i think they didn't use coating, so if you have experienced same thing it's okay. My main question is about bridge setup. I like to setup my own guitars, i know every setup references about suhr, fender any 6 screw or 2 point bridges but never used prs before and i know bridge setuped well in factory i wont touch it now but i'd like to learn how it should setup
 
The moral of this story: There ain't no way to make everyone happy when there is a backlog. If you're loyal to the store you bought from, wait it out. If not, buy one that's in stock. IMHO
During a cash-grab scenario like this one, dealers know they have the upper hand. A deal will never be had so get it where you can.
 
PRS Tremolo
Tuning and Setup Hints

  • If the guitar is not returning to pitch after using the tremolo arm, put a little lightweight machine oil under the head of each screw (do not loosen the screws). This will effectively oil the knife-edge of the tremolo.

  • The correct adjustment of the six brass screws, which act as a pivot and anchor the tremolo system, is level with each other so the bridge floats 3/32" off the body. These 6 screws are factory adjusted and you should not have to adjust them at all. If it becomes necessary to adjust the 6 notched screws, make sure the guitar is detuned or you will ruin the knife-edge. Adjust the screws incrementally so the notches under the screw heads are fitted with the corresponding hole in the bridge. These holes serve as the knife-edge on which the tremolo unit rocks. Again, this is a very tricky adjustment and could ruin the knife-edge if done improperly. Do not adjust these screws while the guitar is tuned to pitch.
  • The Bridge saddles should be adjusted so that the height of the string at the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the string is 2/32".

  • If the tremolo bridge is not floating 3/32" off the body, remove the tremolo back plate. Adjust the claw screws about 1/4 turn at a time until the bridge floats perpendicular to and about 1/16th off the body. Tune to pitch and check, re-adjust until the bridge sits properly.

  • The intonation may be adjusted by moving the 6 phillips head screws facing the tail end of the guitar in and out with a phillips head screwdriver. Match the octave (fretted) note of all six strings with their corresponding 12th fret open harmonics by shortening or lengthening the strings with the adjusting screws.

  • Remember to tune and retune until the process is complete.


Set up For Silver Sky tremolo bridge


The Silver Sky model utilizes a slightly different approach to the bridge set up. Here is some insight regarding the Silver Sky bridge adjustments.


  • The back of the bridge should stay flush to the top of the guitar body, but the front edge of the bridge should kick up (as shown).
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  • Measuring from the top of the guitar to the bottom of the front edge of the tremolo. Adjust the six fulcrum screws as necessary until the measurement is 4/32" all the way across (as shown)


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If you are unfamiliar with making these adjustments, we recommend that the guitar be taken to a qualified repair center.
 
Thank you so much. I wonder what if we just loosing the springs without increasing fulcrum screws, im asking that because you used shim in your video and i dont want to use shim :(
 
And my saddles are little rusty, is it normal? I thought "i guess they didnt used coating"
 
And my saddles are little rusty, is it normal? I thought "i guess they didnt used coating"

The saddles are plated with a very thin vintage style plating called electroless plating. They more prone to rust, than saddles with modern plating, especially if you sweat on them. This is the plating Paul and John chose for this bridge, so it's best to wipe down your saddles after playing. You might want to put a little oil on them as well, for some added protection.
 
The saddles are plated with a very thin vintage style plating called electroless plating. They more prone to rust, than saddles with modern plating, especially if you sweat on them. This is the plating Paul and John chose for this bridge, so it's best to wipe down your saddles after playing. You might want to put a little oil on them as well, for some added protection.

thank you but i've bought the guitar yet, i didn't play it, it's still in the store because i went on a holiday, i'll take it from store tomorrow. Is there any possibility that i can ask for new replacement saddles :(
 
thank you but i've bought the guitar yet, i didn't play it, it's still in the store because i went on a holiday, i'll take it from store tomorrow. Is there any possibility that i can ask for new replacement saddles :(

also i can send you pics of guitar, saddles and serial number when i take it. it is one of the first 500
 
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