Stuck Strings (in the block) of my DGT SE

[Cyberi4n]

Is it worth putting the block on a drill-press, enlarging the holes, and fitting telecaster string ferrules? I have the same issue with my SE Silver Sky, have been using an Allen Key to poke the ball-ends out.

For the record: D’addario 125EXL and the factory-fit PRS strings

 

[moozak]

An old trick that has worked for many years:

Cut the ball end “eyelets” off your last set of strings and pull your new strings through the eyelets so that they have a double eyelet on the end of each string… then thread into the the block.

The strings should come out easily after that.

Save the eyelets for each string change.

Simple and effective.

 

[Georgedepinedo]

I'm seeing a correlation between stuck strings ball ends and tuning issues. I'm about to ream the bejeesus out of the trem block of a Custom 24 SE I own. I will also deburr the opening once I'm done with it. In another post of this Forum I was suggested by deathworlder to change the Ernie Ball I'm using. They are indeed on the loose end and they can wedge up the narrow opening. I'm planning to ream the holes regardless.

 

[Georgedepinedo]

An old trick that has worked for many years:

Cut the ball end “eyelets” off your last set of strings and pull your new strings through the eyelets so that they have a double eyelet on the end of each string… then thread into the the block.

The strings should come out easily after that.

Save the eyelets for each string change.

Simple and effective.

Genius

 

[Slo-mo]

I've always used those wooden shish kabab sticks (basically long, slightly thicker toothpick). That way I don't risk metal scraping the inside of the block. Just seemed a bit safer using wood.

 

[deathworlder]

I'm seeing a correlation between stuck strings ball ends and tuning issues. I'm about to ream the bejeesus out of the trem block of a Custom 24 SE I own. I will also deburr the opening once I'm done with it. In another post of this Forum I was suggested by deathworlder to change the Ernie Ball I'm using. They are indeed on the loose end and they can wedge up the narrow opening. I'm planning to ream the holes regardless.

You shouldn't have to ream anything.
If the string fits, it fits.

It's the interface between ball end, the wrap and the block...
The best you could hope to do, is clean up the bottom of the counterbore leading to the main bore. Not sure a drill bit is going to get 'er done...

Reaming the main bore implies it was under-sized and/or you are accommodating looser ball end wraps. This can be a fine line, depending how loose the wrap is. You would be shooting for a diameter greater than the width of the loop, but less than the width of the ball end. If you waller out the hole too much your balls could get really stuck(twss).

Just wanted to throw some caution your way when you said "ream the bejeesus".

The problem, illustrated for those who don't savvy:

 

[deathworlder]

An old trick that has worked for many years:

Cut the ball end “eyelets” off your last set of strings and pull your new strings through the eyelets so that they have a double eyelet on the end of each string… then thread into the the block.

The strings should come out easily after that.

Save the eyelets for each string change.

Simple and effective.

This works, but doesn't necessarily address 'spring effect', which begets tuning issues. As long as the two ball ends make contact prior to insertion in the block, should be gtg.

 

[DISTORT6]

. As long as the two ball ends make contact prior to insertion

 

[deathworlder]

I see you're a fan of paper plates.

 

[DISTORT6]

I see you're a fan of paper plates.

?

 

[Georgedepinedo]

You shouldn't have to ream anything.
If the string fits, it fits.

It's the interface between ball end, the wrap and the block...
The best you could hope to do, is clean up the bottom of the counterbore leading to the main bore. Not sure a drill bit is going to get 'er done...

Reaming the main bore implies it was under-sized and/or you are accommodating looser ball end wraps. This can be a fine line, depending how loose the wrap is. You would be shooting for a diameter greater than the width of the loop, but less than the width of the ball end. If you waller out the hole too much your balls could get really stuck(twss).

Just wanted to throw some caution your way when you said "ream the bejeesus".

The problem, illustrated for those who don't savvy:

Yes that was what I figured. I ended putting the drill bit in and turning it with my fingers. No drill. sort of to clean the hole a bit. At least the GHS strings don't get stuck like the Ernie Ball. I said on the other post that the problem now is worse, and the Mann nut gets here tomorrow thanks to Snail Mail.

 

[Georgedepinedo]

I also bought these from Amazon. Good reviews. Let's see how it goes....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G66FGM3?smid=ATE2HFHESBWAX&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1

 

[Georgedepinedo]

You shouldn't have to ream anything.
If the string fits, it fits.

It's the interface between ball end, the wrap and the block...
The best you could hope to do, is clean up the bottom of the counterbore leading to the main bore. Not sure a drill bit is going to get 'er done...

Reaming the main bore implies it was under-sized and/or you are accommodating looser ball end wraps. This can be a fine line, depending how loose the wrap is. You would be shooting for a diameter greater than the width of the loop, but less than the width of the ball end. If you waller out the hole too much your balls could get really stuck(twss).

Just wanted to throw some caution your way when you said "ream the bejeesus".

The problem, illustrated for those who don't savvy:

I have been trying to post some pics, loaded them to Imgur but this site doesn't allow me to post them. Maybe because I'm too new here.

 

[Georgedepinedo]

The guitar is playing me around. I removed the 6th string like 3 times inserting up to 3 ball ends and taking them off, 3rd time the charm. I just put the bloody string by itself and now the guitar holds the tuning. Bollocks !!!

 

[Georgedepinedo]

Never mind. Started doing it again after whanging for a while.

 

[deathworlder]

Try a set of PRS Signature strings next re-string...

 

[Georgedepinedo]

Try a set of PRS Signature strings next re-string...

Yes, will try that. Will get me those PRS strings and try them.
I was tinkering with it last night before going to bed, I think it is the knife edge screws. They look noticeably worn. I loosened the strings, took the springs off, got the two better looking ones and put them on the 1st and 6th positions respectively, then the 2nd and 5th and so on in order of ugliness on that groove. have not put the springs back because it was late, but at this point I might as well wait for the new screws to see what happens.

 

[Georgedepinedo]

I got to a point where it is 90% better. I installed the Knife edge screws. They are a tad smaller than the originals, but they work fine. Set them screws @ 2.5mm like John Mann suggested in the video and instead ow wrapping the strings around the tuning machines, pulled them thru tighten them and tuned. The strings are about 1/4 turn on the machines. Better holding now.
When my economy allows me, I'm getting a Mann Made bridge for sure.

 

[d^rren]

A big mistake a lot of people make with locking tuners is doing a few string wraps like they would with conventional non-locking tuners. That's one of the major sources of string slippage with heavy trem use. Locking tuners make multiple string wraps unnecessary. Do as you did. Pull taut, lock, tune up.

 

[James Stephanidis]

I have a paper clip handy when changing strings for this very reason. I have been successfully pushing the strings out of the block by unfolding the paper clip and pushing the end of the wire into the top of the block hole.