Stuck Strings (in the block) of my DGT SE

kdlp

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I've read through a number of posts directed at SE blocks and strings being stuck inside. I was playing my DGT SE Friday night when I popped a string. We were near enough the end of the set, so we broke early and I went about changing the string. Long story, short.... 4 of the 6 strings were stuck in the block. I loaded the DGT back into the case and plugged in my LP to finish the night. That's all inconvenient and a PIA, but not horrible.

Horrible is what I encountered trying to extract the strings this morning. I had to completely disassemble the bridge assembly to get them out. BTW, that included removing the string saddles, screws and springs, plus the springs from the claw and the 3 screws separating the block from the top mount. Currently all those pieces are in a baggie, wrapped in masking tape and stuffed in the case with an inoperable guitar.

I refuse to put this great sounding, great playing guitar back together again without either taking a drill press to widen the existing block holes (they are tapered) or replacing the block with a Mannmade. The reason for this post is #1, to whine and #2, to find out if anyone has any ideas for a fix. And yes, I realize this is PRS's economy line, but even economy guitars should NOT require a drill press to change strings.

(I tried everything in the toolbox to extricate those string ends from inside the block... flat blade mini-screwdriver, the low E string, my wife's hair pin, etc.)

Please, someone educate me! I'm sure this block is in use other SE trem bridges and I know I'm not the first one down this trail.... Thanks for any suggestions/ideas.
 
The sure-fire fix was always to use a low E string and push it through, but that didn't work for your guitar's bridge.

If the machining isn't smooth enough to allow the string to come out easily - I can't imagine there's a different reason for the problem - I'd get one of John Mann's bridges.

Based on tone comparisons I've watched, the Mann Made bridges result in a significant improvement in tone, on top of the other advantages. I realize there's an expense involved, but the mod is reversible if you ever want to sell (save the stock bridge), and you might re-use the Mann bridge or sell it if you no longer need it.
 
That sucks, as you say the strings shouldn’t be jammed into the block that hard.

I’m pretty sure that other forum members have shared ways to get the ball ends out of a trem block.

Hopefully someone will share soon.
 
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I've read through a number of posts directed at SE blocks and strings being stuck inside. I was playing my DGT SE Friday night when I popped a string. We were near enough the end of the set, so we broke early and I went about changing the string. Long story, short.... 4 of the 6 strings were stuck in the block. I loaded the DGT back into the case and plugged in my LP to finish the night. That's all inconvenient and a PIA, but not horrible.

Horrible is what I encountered trying to extract the strings this morning. I had to completely disassemble the bridge assembly to get them out. BTW, that included removing the string saddles, screws and springs, plus the springs from the claw and the 3 screws separating the block from the top mount. Currently all those pieces are in a baggie, wrapped in masking tape and stuffed in the case with an inoperable guitar.

I refuse to put this great sounding, great playing guitar back together again without either taking a drill press to widen the existing block holes (they are tapered) or replacing the block with a Mannmade. The reason for this post is #1, to whine and #2, to find out if anyone has any ideas for a fix. And yes, I realize this is PRS's economy line, but even economy guitars should NOT require a drill press to change strings.

(I tried everything in the toolbox to extricate those string ends from inside the block... flat blade mini-screwdriver, the low E string, my wife's hair pin, etc.)

Please, someone educate me! I'm sure this block is in use other SE trem bridges and I know I'm not the first one down this trail.... Thanks for any suggestions/ideas.
I’ve always been able to use the E string, as suggested. If it gets stuck real good, I tap the E string or a jewelers screwdriver or allen wrench.

That said, a Mann Made bridge would be great, or perhaps just a Mann Made block.
 
Ernie Ball Turbo Slinky 9.5 - 46 ... The .46 came out easily, the 9.5, 12, 26 and 36 stuck and the 16 broke at the tuner. I didn't mention that these strings had been in the guitar for about 6 weeks. I had the .26 stuck badly the 1st time I changed strings and I should have learned my lesson then. More importantly, I should have changed strings before I went out Friday.... hindsight... 20/20.

Out of curiosity, what strings?
 
Try a different brand of string...
I've never been a fan of ErnieBall strings; the ball end wrap is to loose IMO.
The first time I had a stuck string in this block they were PRS strings (or whatever they're shipped with from the factory in the Far East.) I've used Fender Bullets, GHS, D'Addario and others over my 50 years of playing guitar and never had this problem.

It's poor design or poor machining and I suspect that latter. I'm going to use my friends micro-cam to look into the bottom of the taper in the block to see if there are rough edges/grooves. BTW, my friends guess is that it's poor quality metal in the block being "grooved" by the ball at the string end providing a "seat" for the ball. Hopefully I'll get a chance to get into it this week.
 
The first time I had a stuck string in this block they were PRS strings (or whatever they're shipped with from the factory in the Far East.) I've used Fender Bullets, GHS, D'Addario and others over my 50 years of playing guitar and never had this problem.

It's poor design or poor machining and I suspect that latter. I'm going to use my friends micro-cam to look into the bottom of the taper in the block to see if there are rough edges/grooves. BTW, my friends guess is that it's poor quality metal in the block being "grooved" by the ball at the string end providing a "seat" for the ball. Hopefully I'll get a chance to get into it this week.
Bummer...
I await your findings.
The analytical approach is always better than entertaining shotgun suggestions from an internet forum.
 
I’ve really tried to make the SE/S2/new CE trem work.

It just kinda doesn’t, at least nowhere near the Mann/Milcom/Excel/etc. one does.

I’ve replaced 3-4 of them and immediately consider it as an additional cost when entertaining the purchase of a guitar with them.
 
Just out of interest, has anyone tried a set of Fender Bullets in their PRS trem (Core or SE/S2)? Wondering if those would make a difference in eliminating the stuck strings in an SE trem block.
 
I'd expect a string to sometimes get stuck on an older or worn instrument. It happens, normal wear and tear, etc.

I haven't needed to replace the PRS USA blocks, and haven't owned an SE.

If I did, however, I would buy the Mann block just for the improvement in tone. It was real in the A/B demo I heard. I was surprised at how much better it sounded, I thought it would be subtle at best. But it jumped right out of the speakers.
 
Same thing happened on my SE 24 Standard. I inserted a small screwdriver from the top of the string holes and lightly tapped the screwdriver with a small hammer to get the ball end of the string out. Worked great.

This went on for a while but now I don't seem to have that problem anymore.
 
I've always used poultry skewers, works every time. But I like the idea of an allen wrench too, same concept and maybe you already have the right size one handy (I just "borrowed" a skewer from the kitchen, no one's ever noticed...)
 
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