So i got a SE soapbar ii that wont stay in tune

I always put locking tuners and a new nut on any SE I buy. I never have a tuning issue...If you don't want to go that route though, I would suggest some type of lubricant for the nut.

I totally with Danerade... Put a USA PRS nut and Grover 406c locking tuners and the guitar stays in perfect tune. Before I had issues a well, once the nut was replaced all issues were gone.
 
Check the intonation. Tune each string, then check to see if it's in tune at the 12th fret. If the 12th fret note is sharp, the distance between the 12th fret and the bridge is too short and the saddle needs to be moved back. Opposite if it is flat.

How exactly should this be done? Since the screws are right underneath the string. Do I just snake the tool in there under the strings at full tention or do I detune the strings to make them slack so I can get in there more easier?

And what about the two screws on the other side of the bridge? I read the official PRS setup guide and if I understand correctly, by adjusting these two screws somehow then the other 4 strings will also go in tune?I ddon't understand that

I'm at work so I haven't had a chance to watch the videos yet
 
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What Jimi said - go in quarter- or half-turns. It takes much less than you'd think (and sometimes a lot more).

It sounds like an intimidating process, but it's really not - you'll pretty much get the idea with the first string and you'll be off and running. Just remember - turn, tune, test. Every time you move the saddle, you'll change the tuning on that string. You may not need to do the tuning thing each time, but I prefer to just to try to test it in as real a situation as possible (i.e. in tune with the rest of the guitar). And make sure nothing is pressing against the neck - you don't want to accidentally move the tension while you're doing this.
 
Also remember, if it's sharp to go out and if it's flat to go in, it's seems kind of backwards but that's the way it works. After you adjust the saddle a little bit then check for tuning, (it will have moved) and then check the tuning at the 12th fret again. Repeat as often as need be.
 
Also remember, if it's sharp to go out and if it's flat to go in, it's seems kind of backwards but that's the way it works. After you adjust the saddle a little bit then check for tuning, (it will have moved) and then check the tuning at the 12th fret again. Repeat as often as need be.

I always go google because I can never remember which way is supposed to be which. But I do the same with truss rods, too - can't seem to get the info to stick in my brain, but since there's the internet, I'm not going to sweat it. I remember reading that Einstein never learned his phone number because he figured there was no need to memorize what could easily be looked up. Yeah, that's my story.

Side story: On Bob & Tom, they had a comedian one time who talked about marriage classes, and he said that whenever anyone is considering marriage, someone should sit them down and point out that Einstein was divorced and ask, "What makes you think you're smarter than Einstein?"
 
I am guessing you have something like this...

Tighten-tonepros.jpg


There should be a screw for each string, awkwardly positioned under each string facing the treble pickup. If that's the case, do one string at a time. Tune it open. See if it's sharp or flat at the 12th fret. It's probably recommended to detune the string or move it to reach the screw, but I don't always do that and it works. Either way, adjust the bridge saddle, retune the string open, then check at the 12th fret again.

If your bridge looks more like this...
250665.jpg


The screws at each end adjust by increasing or decreasing distance from the posts. Here you really only need to get the outside strings correct. If they are right, a properly designed bridge with the correct string gauges will be correct.

Another possibility I thought of last night. My niece told me her P22 wouldn't stay in tune when she played chords. She had always played acoustics, apparently with some heavy gauge strings. It wasn't until I saw her play that I realized she was fretting the lighter gauge strings out of tune. Brutal finger strength from years of high action guitars. Put some heavier gauge strings on, did the setups, and it seems to be fine now.

Good luck.
 
I always go google because I can never remember which way is supposed to be which.

:biggrin: Me too. For years the hunt for that page in my book was the most frustrating thing. So mad at myself for not being able to remember.

Here's how I got it down. Shorter string = higher pitch (sharp). If it's sharp the string is too short between the 12th fret and the bridge. Make it longer.
 
I am guessing you have something like this...

Tighten-tonepros.jpg


There should be a screw for each string, awkwardly positioned under each string facing the treble pickup. If that's the case, do one string at a time. Tune it open. See if it's sharp or flat at the 12th fret. It's probably recommended to detune the string or move it to reach the screw, but I don't always do that and it works. Either way, adjust the bridge saddle, retune the string open, then check at the 12th fret again.

If your bridge looks more like this...
250665.jpg


The screws at each end adjust by increasing or decreasing distance from the posts. Here you really only need to get the outside strings correct. If they are right, a properly designed bridge with the correct string gauges will be correct.

Another possibility I thought of last night. My niece told me her P22 wouldn't stay in tune when she played chords. She had always played acoustics, apparently with some heavy gauge strings. It wasn't until I saw her play that I realized she was fretting the lighter gauge strings out of tune. Brutal finger strength from years of high action guitars. Put some heavier gauge strings on, did the setups, and it seems to be fine now.

Good luck.

The one I'm talking about is the tone pros bridge in the top picture. (Although I have a SE c22 with the stop bar tailpiece pictured in the bottom as well)

I'm just an SE kinda guy. I can't afford the big boys plus i play aggressively sometimes so its better off this way

also, if it is the nut that needs widening, then wouldnt all the other checking methods be irrelevant, or not work properly? if the nut is the root of the problem, meaning the strings dont fit properly, then shouldnt i worry about that first before everything else?
 
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I just bought a bareknuckle pig 90 p90 bridge pickup on eBay! Very excited to get this thing in and hear it roar! I will keep you guys updated and attempt to post sound samples if I can find a way that will do justice to the tone
 
This is how I would remember the intonation thing back in the day. Lay guitar on lap headstock to the left like I would play it, 1980s using old needle style tuner, put tuner on lap or table so you can read it. Needle will point the direction the saddle needs to move.
 
This is how I would remember the intonation thing back in the day. Lay guitar on lap headstock to the left like I would play it, 1980s using old needle style tuner, put tuner on lap or table so you can read it. Needle will point the direction the saddle needs to move.

Nice - now I have to see if I can remember that!
 
Now that I think of it, I have a Turbo Tuner, so the indicator is a spinning circle. so either the top or bottom will be going in the direction the saddle should move...:dontknow:





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