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Another truth is, I’d really prefer a 594. And another one is, my wife is in serious retirement mode, so no $5k guitar purchases are coming any time soon. S2 or nothing, on the 594 front.
Silver Sky - I love it but I need to change the radius, PLEK??? Has anyone done this???
- Thread starter tvegas99
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dmatthews
Dave's not here
Love my SS. It ain't goin' nowhere. That said HSS is a fav for me as I love the bridge position.
dmatthews
Dave's not here
Do it now and apologize later.
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Yes. For me, bridge single coils have never sounded great... despite what Jimi and Eric Johnson make theirs sound like. But I love the neck, middle and 2 and 4 positions. My Carvin Bolt T is the best HSS guitar I’ve ever played.
Rider1260
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I remember at least one person getting a SS re-radiused , hey it is your guitar , Silver Skys will likely never in my lifetime be collectors items.
I have both a Fiore and a couple of Silver Skys. My take is the Fiore is a PRS 100% like a DC3 , 305 , Lots of GREAT tones but side by side it does not do 2 + 4 like a pickguard fitted SSS guitar , the parallel humbucker ( tapped ) is not as good as the Silver Sky Bridge pickup BUT works with the other Combos you can do on the Fiore.
You won't loose with a flatter radius SS as someone would buy it quick if you decide to sell.
I have both a Fiore and a couple of Silver Skys. My take is the Fiore is a PRS 100% like a DC3 , 305 , Lots of GREAT tones but side by side it does not do 2 + 4 like a pickguard fitted SSS guitar , the parallel humbucker ( tapped ) is not as good as the Silver Sky Bridge pickup BUT works with the other Combos you can do on the Fiore.
You won't loose with a flatter radius SS as someone would buy it quick if you decide to sell.
dmatthews
Dave's not here
Yeah, when I started gigging 20 something years ago I started out on a Yammy Pacifica HSS and got hooked.Yes. For me, bridge single coils have never sounded great... despite what Jimi and Eric Johnson make theirs sound like. But I love the neck, middle and 2 and 4 positions. My Carvin Bolt T is the best HSS guitar I’ve ever played.
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I’ve joked at TGP (I mean, it’s true, I just like saying it, and the reactions I get) that the rig I’ve done by far the most gigs with is the Carvin Bolt T, and a Roland Micro Cube. I had a weekly gig for almost 3 years with an unmic’d singer who played acoustic guitar. It was for 10-30 people in a large “living room” type setting. Sometimes we had bass, mandolin and banjo, and they all sang. Sometimes it was just me and “Glenn” singing lead and playing acoustic guitar rhythm. Nobody had a mic and only the bass player used a small amp if he played. I gigged that Micro Cube over and over, hour long gigs, many times on batteries, for almost 3 years.
I played bluegrass, gospel, and blues, all on that HSS Carvin Bolt T and Micro Cube.
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dmatthews
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Ain't no joke.
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I like getting in "what amp have you gigged the most with" threads and saying "Roland Micro Cube has over 100 gigs on it.Ain't no joke.
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If you don't have an SC itch, don't scratch!
I just can't get over Jimi and Trower and Jeff Beck and Blackmore and Eric Johnson and Yngwie and... on and on... even though I vastly prefer humbuckers. I just feel I "need" some single coils. Then again, if I had your collection of guitars, I probably wouldn't really feel like I was missing anything!
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I actually went to a store to try an S2 594 about a month ago and it had sold before I got there.
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The limiting factor for action on that guitar is the radius. If you want it particularly low, the radius will make bends fret out. You COULD change it with a Plek, or better yet, with a competent luthier (I do better work than a Plek, and I used to run a Plek and found it limiting...).
That said, if you flatten the middle of the frets to flatten the radius, you'll lose significant fret height by the time you get to even the standard 10" radius, which is sufficient for 1mm action on the high E 14th fret, all other things being correct.
Are you able to tolerate having low-ish frets in the middle of the fretboard? If not, either 1) different guitar, as someone else pointed out, or 2) refret and flatten the board to whatever radius you want. I wouldn't do (2) unless I was particularly in love with the guitar or it's features. Having said that, I've done it dozens of times on my guitars, but not on anything where I paid as much as you paid for a new Silver Sky......
Rider1260
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I don't get why some folks equate radius it action height , The radius is the roundness of the fretboard and your string can be just as low on any radius that has individually adjustable saddles its just more round feeling , the height is the same ( or is if properly set up )
Both the nut and the bridge need to be properly radiused. on a rounder ( smaller radius ) many find chords easier as your fingers are naturally curved, A Flatter radius can make complex lead lines easier as you don't have to navigate the roundness of the fretboard.
If I was going to change the radius I will pull the frets and change the radius and refret. but this would also make the neck less thick something I don't think I would care for. I am starting to see some Fiore guitars for sale at reasonable prices if you love the SS pickups I would find a used Fiore and swap necks the sell the Fiore with the SS neck.
Both the nut and the bridge need to be properly radiused. on a rounder ( smaller radius ) many find chords easier as your fingers are naturally curved, A Flatter radius can make complex lead lines easier as you don't have to navigate the roundness of the fretboard.
If I was going to change the radius I will pull the frets and change the radius and refret. but this would also make the neck less thick something I don't think I would care for. I am starting to see some Fiore guitars for sale at reasonable prices if you love the SS pickups I would find a used Fiore and swap necks the sell the Fiore with the SS neck.
Completely incorrect if you actually bend strings. If you never bend a string, true. If you bend a string, completely false. The problem with vintage radius is this: As you bend a string on any guitar, the radius of the fretboard makes the action the string "sees" lower as it goes up the radius. Say your E string is .05" off the 12th fret. On a flat radius, like a classical, it remains .05". Now if you add any radius to the fingerboard. as you push that string toward the center of the board, the action goes down. The more radius, the faster it goes down. On a vintage radius, it goes down FAST. So by the time your E string is between B and G, where it needs to be for a full step bend, it's gone down to the point that it will fret out with low action, even if the fretwork is otherwise perfect.
Don't be believe me? Get a mechanical ruler, set your action at .04" high E 12th, bend on a 7.5" radius. Try it. Well known phenomena.
dmatthews
Dave's not here
Mechanical rulers aside, I can bend the carp out of the strings on my SS and not fret out.
Because your action is high enough to accommodate it. But what works for YOU, won't work for everyone.
dmatthews
Dave's not here
Works for JM and a carp ton of players be they pro or regular schmos like me and you.
So do size 45 pants or size 6 shoes, but they also don't work for more people than they do.
dmatthews
Dave's not here
Ovibos
Naughty Wood Librarian
I say do it if you think it'll work for you.
And also understand that you have killed the resale value, and be OK with that.
And also understand that you have killed the resale value, and be OK with that.
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