Should PRS move the toggle switch out of the way from the whammy bar

Um, @Revelation,

20241227-121712.jpg


what should I do with two blade switches in radius of the vibrato arm?

We as human beings are really good in adopting ourselves and coping to new situations or challenges.
NEVER EVER I observed any issue with the position of the switch(es).
You need to play more to establish automatism to not overthink.
Um, @Revelation,

20241227-121712.jpg


what should I do with two blade switches in radius of the vibrato arm?

We as human beings are really good in adopting ourselves and coping to new situations or challenges.
NEVER EVER I observed any issue with the position of the switch(es).
You need to play more to establish automatism to not overthink.
You can't use the whammy bar in that position and adjust the toggle switch.
 
Um, @Revelation,

20241227-121712.jpg


what should I do with two blade switches in radius of the vibrato arm?

We as human beings are really good in adopting ourselves and coping to new situations or challenges.
NEVER EVER I observed any issue with the position of the switch(es).
You need to play more to establish automatism to not overthink.
That’s not really what I was talking about, the locations on 513s are totally usable (IMO).

It’s really just on Customs/Core (new) Studios/etc. where they plopped the blade where the tone controls were.
 
I agree. The switch is poorly placed. The Les Paul / 594 switch location is by far the best.

On my DGT I end up hitting the volume knobs or bar trying to switch PUs.
 
Seriously though...
Is it really that big of a deal? Even if you missed the switch, is a anyone going to notice?
 
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@Revelation, I took your picture, you depicted within your starting post, for my comment.
The (rest) position of the vibrato arm is not the way, I used to have it on my guitars.
Generally it is like the way you see it on the 513 pic, for use quickly turned 180°.

dscn9965-jpg.543042


This guitar is the only one I regret to have determined the position of the switch. The reason is not the whammy bar.

If this would have been one of the four factory assembled prototypes, the switch would have been in line with the potis, but close to the jack.
I decided for that model very belated. 1993 it was announced as a new guitar series by a test in a guitar magazine, but they never made to that status. 1995 I remembered the guitar, called the manufacturer. And I learned: Not continued. In the shelves was a remaining body, neck and all hardware.
I decided to put the switch close to the lower horn for ergonomic reasons (and very much later I learned that Atze Goelsdorf had made a guitar with that design in the 1980ies, and the switch was on the front, too. https://www.dieter-goelsdorf-history.de/de/story/einiges-was-vor-göldo-und-duesenberg-geschah-....html, if you are not familiar with Goelsdorf, he invented the Tru Tune Tremolo, the archetype of double locking systems, EVH was one of the first he used them in his Kramers.).

Anyways: By strumming the switch is in my used vector, and I need to play with a lot of attention to prevent me from unintended switching.

But as I said: We could adapt.
 
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It’s the one thing that really caught me off guard when I got my CU24. The position of the bar relative to the controls could not be in a worse spot.

For the bar to be in a usable position it somehow blocks all of the controls. You either have to move it up over the strings where it blocks your picking or point it all the way backwards. But in order to have it stay there you have to keep the tension high enough that you have to struggle with it to get it back into a usable position.

For a company that pays so much attention to detail it’s a glaring example of form over function. Unfortunately, it’s frustrating enough I’m considering selling it and leaving PRS behind.
 
You all need to put your big boy/ girl pants on and build yourself a bridge and get over it. I've played prs guitars of various iterations and switching. 3 way toggles, 5 way blades, rotary.

A few minutes of adjustment and I'm good to go.

As far as custom 24s go. You could just stick to original 5 way rotary and sweet switch The way it was meant to be. 🤣👍🤷

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I agree the switch placement on the Cu24 looks disastrous. Mine has had 13 years to convince me that it's terrible and I should get rid of it. Y'know what? I haven't. Still love that guitar. In the heat of actually playing the thing, the switch doesn't bug me that much.

Maybe a factor in my feelings is that my first PRS was a Classic Electric with a rotary switch. Literally anything in the current PRS lineup is uphill from that switching contraption.
 
I vote for bringing back the 5 way rotary. When I first got my '92 the idea of the rotary scared me, but after many years and thousands of gigs I wouldn't live without it. I've gotten used to switching even live and mid song, I can do it by feel now and its second nature ... and never in the way of the trem. Plus I love the tones I get with the rotary.
 
I vote for bringing back the 5 way rotary. When I first got my '92 the idea of the rotary scared me, but after many years and thousands of gigs I wouldn't live without it. I've gotten used to switching even live and mid song, I can do it by feel now and its second nature ... and never in the way of the trem. Plus I love the tones I get with the rotary.
I never fully got along with the rotary for gigging. My CU24 has it. I prefer the 5 way blade that they went to. It is just easier for me to switch and if I am not sure what position it is in it is ease to see it. The rotary has always been difficult for me to tell where it is. I can't turn it all the way in one direction and count the clicks back in the middle of a song. In between songs is fine.
 
What about in a les paul area?
I have a Les Paul Axcess, Les Paul with a Floyd. It is totally fine. Easy to control. The pickup selector is in the top horn so really easy to hit. Strumming up and down it is right there. The volume controls do not get in the way you do not hit them. I even have coil taps on my pickups, playing live it is fantastic, never had issues. I did do some changes to all my les pauls, though, No thumb bleeders, change to speed knobs, etc.
 
The Starla has the blade at the same spot. Which is even worse, because the arm of a bigsby is nigh impossible to move quicly. My biggest dislike of that guitar.

And the reason I - like so many here - own an older CU specimen, with the McCarty electronics.
 
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