SE245 - No Sustain
- Thread starter GavQuinn
- Start date
Alnus Rubra
Loving nature’s wonders
Gav are you able to explain a little more about the lack of sustain?
Are you getting an initial attach and then quick drop off?
Bridge and nut could be two culprits. As AP has said, could be strings.
Is the instrument original, are there any after-market mods, bridge or nut. These are two common mods that are spoken of on here.
A genuine PRS (US) nut may help to improve sustain.
Certainly a lot of the guys speak very highly of the Mann upgrade for the bridge.
Some photos may help us help.
Are you getting an initial attach and then quick drop off?
Bridge and nut could be two culprits. As AP has said, could be strings.
Is the instrument original, are there any after-market mods, bridge or nut. These are two common mods that are spoken of on here.
A genuine PRS (US) nut may help to improve sustain.
Certainly a lot of the guys speak very highly of the Mann upgrade for the bridge.
Some photos may help us help.
Tone-y
New Member
Could be that the pickups are just set too close to the strings! The pickup magnets will try and hold the strings and set too close will deaden the sustain for sure. Compare the 245 with the Bernie.
Alnus Rubra
Loving nature’s wonders
Good call, I found that problem with a pickup change on one of my guitars, took me a little time to work it out!
DickBanks
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2018
- Messages
- 94
Get a set-up from a really good tech, shouldn't be very expensive, worth every penny.
But if you are going to do it yourself (like I do):
-Remove strings, set truss rod dead flat (need luthier knotched straight-edge for PRS scale lengths)
-Use small straight edge (teeter-totter method) to check for high frets (my PRS came with 4 high frets)
-Check all frets for wear
-Do fret level if needed for high frets, followed by crown and polish on any fret you level, and any fret that needs dressed
-Put 1/4 turn counterclockwise on truss rod (my technique) to obtain slight relief (forebow)
-Install strings, set action to taste, and check every string on every fret for buzz.
-If you still have issues, maybe change your string gauge, pickup height. I have an ES-335 that had NO sustain with heavier strings (14s), but I changed to 10s, and now get all the sustain I want, and great tone too
There are some tools you would need for all of this that I didn't mention--long fret sander, 800/1000/1500/2000 grit sandpaper, crown file.
One-time purchase of these costs about the same as 1 setup, and then you can do all the setups you want.
Part of being an electric guitar player is being able to do your own setup and maintenance. Part of the fun too. That's my opinion. I would do anything my guitars require except a fret replacement job. But that's me.
But if you are going to do it yourself (like I do):
-Remove strings, set truss rod dead flat (need luthier knotched straight-edge for PRS scale lengths)
-Use small straight edge (teeter-totter method) to check for high frets (my PRS came with 4 high frets)
-Check all frets for wear
-Do fret level if needed for high frets, followed by crown and polish on any fret you level, and any fret that needs dressed
-Put 1/4 turn counterclockwise on truss rod (my technique) to obtain slight relief (forebow)
-Install strings, set action to taste, and check every string on every fret for buzz.
-If you still have issues, maybe change your string gauge, pickup height. I have an ES-335 that had NO sustain with heavier strings (14s), but I changed to 10s, and now get all the sustain I want, and great tone too
There are some tools you would need for all of this that I didn't mention--long fret sander, 800/1000/1500/2000 grit sandpaper, crown file.
One-time purchase of these costs about the same as 1 setup, and then you can do all the setups you want.
Part of being an electric guitar player is being able to do your own setup and maintenance. Part of the fun too. That's my opinion. I would do anything my guitars require except a fret replacement job. But that's me.
I set everything up myself to my own tastes, I'm good at it.
The neck has no relief, pretty much straight. I do that on pretty much all guitars for the tone, the truss should be good and tight, I've found loosening the rod makes the guitar sound 'rubbery', less snappy.
The initial tone is really good, it sounds great. It's the higher strings that don't sustain; the G, B, E. Even when strummed open, an Em with the G not removed on overdrive let's say, the low strings thunder on, the higher ones die off.
Do some guys recommend slight relief or a higher action to compensate?
It's already got Monty's pickups and a USA nut. The bridge was re-drilled and re-mounted last year, it was pulled forward. I could go for the Mann bridge, but I cringe slightly at the idea of spending (that much) more money on it.
The neck has no relief, pretty much straight. I do that on pretty much all guitars for the tone, the truss should be good and tight, I've found loosening the rod makes the guitar sound 'rubbery', less snappy.
The initial tone is really good, it sounds great. It's the higher strings that don't sustain; the G, B, E. Even when strummed open, an Em with the G not removed on overdrive let's say, the low strings thunder on, the higher ones die off.
Do some guys recommend slight relief or a higher action to compensate?
It's already got Monty's pickups and a USA nut. The bridge was re-drilled and re-mounted last year, it was pulled forward. I could go for the Mann bridge, but I cringe slightly at the idea of spending (that much) more money on it.
dogrocketp
I drank the PRS kool aid, and it was tasty!
My SE 245 had a similar problem. I ended up having my tech reset it up, and unfortunately felt that I had to replace the bridge studs and the bridge. It does have a very slight neck relief. Remember, we have to do what the guitar dictates to us to get the sound. My guitars have different relief, depending on the neck. I'll get it back from my younger son as soon as his CE24 arrives.
What bridge did you replace the stock one with and did it solve the issue?
dogrocketp
I drank the PRS kool aid, and it was tasty!
This particular guitar got a massive Schaller combination bridge/tailpiece. My luthier provided the studs. Any other stoptail I've ever owned has gotten Schroeder locking studs and a Schroeder Boat tail bridge. I swear by those things.
Dirty_Boogie
Still got the ol' tagger on it
So no one has yet asked you the 64 thousand dollar question... is it plugged in? 
At 22 seconds in...
At 22 seconds in...
Did it solve the issue or improve sustain? Sorry not being pedantic but skeptical of spending money... it’s already got money in it aftermarket
Birdsofprey
All Birds that Fly.
This would be the number one place to look from what you are explaining, dead strings from poor nut/saddle slots cause poor sustain.
dogrocketp
I drank the PRS kool aid, and it was tasty!
The nuts always get replaced right away. Yes, the sustain and note definition are clearer to my ears, especially with locking studs. I ‘d suggest doing it bit by bit. Change a part, do nothing for 2 weeks while you play it and listen, then do the next step if necessary. Nut first, then Schroeder locking studs, then the bridge. Save the old parts in case you sell the guitar.
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