SE wraparound/fixed bridge issues

[Lowendpurveyor]

I'm interested in purchasing an SE Zach Myers, however I have read that a few people are having issues with the fixed bridges (mostly the wraparound bridges on the single cut SEs) of some SE models pulling forward over time because of the bridge posts and the holes being of different sizes. Just wondering if a few of you have found this to be an issue and in particular if this is a problem with the SE Zach Myers guitar. Thanks.

 

[stratcpo]

I'm playing mine right now. Have had it for over a year and not a problem with the bridge pulling forward. I've read about this happening, but my ZM is fine. Hope this helps. ENJOY!!!

 

[dogrocketp]

I think that was more of an issue with the older singlecut models. 4 of my 5 were made very early, and have that problem. The 5th one is a 245 from 2013. No problem.

 

[Mikegarveyblues]

Have that issue with my '11 Bernie.

Poor tolerance between the bridge itself and the studs so it leaned forward.

I corrected that with locking studs which clamps the bridge to the studs, but...

The tolerance between the aftermarket studs and the stock bushings still means I've got forward lean. So, I've kept the issue but moved it from one thing to the other.

If I had the cashola (I'd be in for a U.S. Bernie) I'd send it to the PTC and get a U.S. Bridge, studs and bushings installed and a re-fret with bigger frets. It'd cost more than the guitar did but I love it enough that it'd be worth it. Intact, my Bernie really should be in a L'oreal ad.

 

[Lowendpurveyor]

Thanks for the replies guys. My first post!

 

[NomadMike]

This popped up on my youtube feed. Tone Pros Versus PRS Wraptail.

Check out the intonation setting of his new bridge at 7:48, I've never seen any string that far out of the normal double stairstep pattern.

FWIW I love my the wraptail on my S2 and have heard of some problem with the TPs.

 

[Mikegarveyblues]

This popped up on my youtube feed. Tone Pros Versus PRS Wraptail.

Check out the intonation setting of his new bridge at 7:48, I've never seen any string that far out of the normal double stairstep pattern.

FWIW I love my the wraptail on my S2 and have heard of some problem with the TPs.

That lean was exactly what I had. Frustrating. Didn't have the sitar sound though. As I say, I still have some lean and will be replacing the bridge for a Schroeder one when I can afford it. The locking studs have eliminated most of the lean but the plating is coming away a bit. Not a fault.. I've just played the f@ck out of it!

In defence of the SE bridge I've never had an issue with intonation so I disagree with the guy in the vid who thinks it's a must to replace it. It looks like the tolerances have improved since I got mine so it's a perfectly acceptable bridge if you use standard gauges.


Actually.. I'd really love to hear from someone who's bought an SE with a wraparound the past couple of years. Any lean or are the tolerances between bridge and stud spot on.

 

[bodinski]

Hi all - another new guy here with SE bridge issues.
I got one of the last Bernies for Christmas. It intonates perfectly but the acoustic sound has never been clean & clear - kind of dull, some strings fizzy or buzzy & inconsistent from string to string.
I finally took a hard look at the bridge & studs & found the following:

There is fairly minimal / negligible play in the fit of the bridge to the studs. I attempted the thin washer-as-a-shim fix but there's just not enough space.
There is a good amount of play in the fit of the studs to the wells, definitely more than at the bridge-to-studs junction. Teflon tape could cure it but would also dampen vibration...
The real shocker for me was how poorly the string contact points were finished. The little E & B slots were all but absent. The top E & A were kind of rounded & irregular - these two strings tend to buzz.
None of the points were finished / shaped like those of a USA bridge, & none look like each other.

Seeing I hadn't much to lose, I (crudely) took a small triangular file & some 600-grit paper to the contact areas, There is now more volume, sustain & harmonics. It is not perfect, as I've got some "sitar" on the G & still some buzzing, but it is a vast improvement overall. Someone with proper files & patience could probably fix the bridge, but I bought a second-hand USA bridge / studs (for half the cost of an aftermarket) & will swap them out.

On a side note, my tuning was iffy so I replaced the nut with a USA model & that took care of that.

2 scents - bo

 

[Mikegarveyblues]

Hi all - another new guy here with SE bridge issues.
I got one of the last Bernies for Christmas. It intonates perfectly but the acoustic sound has never been clean & clear - kind of dull, some strings fizzy or buzzy & inconsistent from string to string.
I finally took a hard look at the bridge & studs & found the following:

There is fairly minimal / negligible play in the fit of the bridge to the studs. I attempted the thin washer-as-a-shim fix but there's just not enough space.
There is a good amount of play in the fit of the studs to the wells, definitely more than at the bridge-to-studs junction. Teflon tape could cure it but would also dampen vibration...
The real shocker for me was how poorly the string contact points were finished. The little E & B slots were all but absent. The top E & A were kind of rounded & irregular - these two strings tend to buzz.
None of the points were finished / shaped like those of a USA bridge, & none look like each other.

Seeing I hadn't much to lose, I (crudely) took a small triangular file & some 600-grit paper to the contact areas, There is now more volume, sustain & harmonics. It is not perfect, as I've got some "sitar" on the G & still some buzzing, but it is a vast improvement overall. Someone with proper files & patience could probably fix the bridge, but I bought a second-hand USA bridge / studs (for half the cost of an aftermarket) & will swap them out.

On a side note, my tuning was iffy so I replaced the nut with a USA model & that took care of that.

2 scents - bo

Had the same issue. The only way to take out any lean completely is with locking studs, although I found them to be far from a perfect solution.

There is always going to be a little play. There has to be some tolerance. I thought the SE bridge tolerance could have been tightened... Infact, I think it has been.

I went with a Mann 2300 adjustable stoptail on my Bernie and it's been great. Very worthwhile upgrade!

 

[dogrocketp]

I have Schroeder locking studs, and adjustable bridges on 3 of my SE Stoptail guitars. They solve the problem very nicely. MY 2004 SE tremonti has no bridge lean. 3 P90 Singlecuts all have it. i`m sure John Mann`s bridges will work beautifully as well.

 

[bodinski]

I got the US (SC245) bridge & studs. It looks as though the US studs have at least as much play in the wells as the SEs, & the US bridge actually fits the imports better than it does it's own studs.That said, I kept the SE studs & just used the bridge. The lean is lessened & of course tone & clarity are improved. I'm sure they'd be better still with a Mann or Schroeder but I cannot complain for the price.

 

[CantankerousCarl]

John Mann can fix all of y'all's problems! 2300 baby!

 

[bodia]

John Mann can fix all of y'all's problems! 2300 baby!

Triple ditto

 

[GavQuinn]

I'm interested in purchasing an SE Zach Myers, however I have read that a few people are having issues with the fixed bridges (mostly the wraparound bridges on the single cut SEs) of some SE models pulling forward over time because of the bridge posts and the holes being of different sizes. Just wondering if a few of you have found this to be an issue and in particular if this is a problem with the SE Zach Myers guitar. Thanks.

This did happen to me. I took out the bridge out, the studs too, plugged the holes with rock hard Irish oak, redrilled the holes and remounted the bridge, this time at a slight back angle. The bridge leans forward on the studs anyway, so this compensated for it. I used the oak due to it being rock hard and durable. The guitar was 6 years old. A lot of the Asian timbers tend to be quite soft.

 

[Miketar]

I have a SE 245 from 2013 that has had alot of playing/practice time and have no tilt or lift on the original bridge. Intonation is quite good on mine. I have read that others have had problems though.

 

[JJJ]

The simplest fix is to buy the tonepros locking studs. The tops screw down and hold the bridge flat. They also come with new bushings if you want to install them

 

[mojo1fan]

I'm interested in purchasing an SE Zach Myers, however I have read that a few people are having issues with the fixed bridges (mostly the wraparound bridges on the single cut SEs) of some SE models pulling forward over time because of the bridge posts and the holes being of different sizes. Just wondering if a few of you have found this to be an issue and in particular if this is a problem with the SE Zach Myers guitar. Thanks.

I have a ZM that was fine as far as the tilting problem is concerned. However, the individual saddles seemed to be in the wrong order on the bridge. The grooves in the saddles for the E and A string were real small, while the ones for the D and G were big. It's as if they were reversed. That resulted in the G string being lower than it was supposed to be, messing up the radius of the strings. I wound up swapping the bridge for a regular SE bridge from an EG that I have to solve that problem.

But now the EG had the problem. I ordered a Wilkinson style bridge from Guitar Fetish and installed it on the EG. It is okay, except for two problems. The Wilkinson bridge has the same tilt problem as the SE bridge (in fact it is slightly worse) and the head of the screw studs is huge. I'll bet they're almost 1/4" tall! It kind of gets in the way of your palm when resting on the bridge. https://www.guitarfetish.com/Wilkinson-Lightweight-Adjustable-Intonated-Wrapround-Bridge_p_892.html

So I suppose I'm still in search of a budget alternative to the SE bridge.

 

[Hardtail]

I
But now the EG had the problem. I ordered a Wilkinson style bridge from Guitar Fetish and installed it on the EG. It is okay, except for two problems. The Wilkinson bridge has the same tilt problem as the SE bridge (in fact it is slightly worse) and the head of the screw studs is huge. I'll bet they're almost 1/4" tall! It kind of gets in the way of your palm when resting on the bridge. https://www.guitarfetish.com/Wilkinson-Lightweight-Adjustable-Intonated-Wrapround-Bridge_p_892.html

So I suppose I'm still in search of a budget alternative to the SE bridge.

Curious, as I'm in the same boat ... do you HAVE to use the Winkenson studs, or can you use the wide flat head studs that come factory on the ZM ? Those look so much better than the Wilkensons ... THANKS !

 

[mojo1fan]

Curious, as I'm in the same boat ... do you HAVE to use the Winkenson studs, or can you use the wide flat head studs that come factory on the ZM ? Those look so much better than the Wilkensons ... THANKS !

No, the bridge was too thick to use the existing studs.