SE Tone and switching question

Discussion in 'Electric Instruments' started by AndrewB, Oct 31, 2019.

  1. AndrewB

    AndrewB New Member

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    I've got an SE Custom 22 and have recently noticed a couple things. First the 3 way toggle switch sometimes requires some jiggling when switching to the bridge pickup to get sound. It seems ok in the middle and neck position. I'm thinking this is because the switch tends to hang on the inside of the factory gig bag when putting it in and taking it out at perhaps slightly sideways angles (if only the zipper went a few more inches at the bottom it would open wide enough to place it in vs slide it). Wondering if it's possible to have this replaced with a core 3 way toggle and if so will it hold up to 'abuse' a little better?

    Also and I'm not sure if it's related but I've noticed that as of late the tone knob isn't having much if any effect, can't really hear a perceptible difference between full off and dimed. Could be that it's always been that way and I just never noticed before. Is there a good way to check other than by ear? Is swapping in a core tone pot to an SE an option to get a bit more control?
     
  2. Boogie

    Boogie SuperD

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    They use the same switch on the S2 line, too. IMO, generally, they work well and may act up a little, periodically. They’ve >almost< made me mad enough to swap them all out, because a partial connection/weak signal is a major PITA in the middle of a show. But replacement has not happened and I’ve gigged both my SE245 and RL Vela a gazillion times. Only a few (4-5) occurrences in many years of use. I wouldn’t sweat it.

    Core models use a standard Switchcraft and is a simple replacement if it bugs you too much.
     
  3. justjoshin

    justjoshin New Member

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    I just had my SE Zach Myers switch replaced with a Switchcraft because it fell apart. It was doing the same thing you described for a while before it completely broke.
     
  4. Axis39

    Axis39 New Member

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    Switch could be dirty contacts, or stretched contacts... It's a pretty simple mechanism.

    Switchcraft is the name of the game for a reason, they last forever. Replacing is easy, couple of solder joints. Just make sure you remember which wires go where, or it'll become a troubleshooting thread real quick! LOL . My best advice there is to use your phone and take too many pictures before you fiddle with anything.

    If you have a multimeter, you can test the existing pot... Stick the leads on different tabs and see what it does.

    Why worry about it being a PRS pot? Go grab a Bourns or CTS (I'd wager the Core ones are CTS, but have no idea exactly). Just grab the correct value (or customize with whatever value you'd like) and taper, grab a new capacitor (because, while customizing, why not, right?) and get down to business.

    Replacing pots and switches is easy if you have even a modicum of soldering ability, or a desire to learn. I love being able to fix or customize my guitars whenever I want. I encourage everyone to learn how to do it.
     
    shimmilou, CyFan4036 and Glide-bpm like this.
  5. CyFan4036

    CyFan4036 New Member

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    I pretty much just assume a wiring harness upgrade when I buy an import.
     
  6. AndrewB

    AndrewB New Member

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    Axis thanks for the info. I'm guessing on the switch it's likely stretched contacts from sideways pressure when sliding the guitar in and out of the gig bag. No real reason for using core PRS switch or pots other than keeping it all PRS or less head scratching trying to figure out if something should fit....
    I'm figuring I'll revisit this once I have a chance to open it up and check things bit. Hypothetically speaking if I wanted to change the tone pot to get more of a roll off of the highs I'd probably want to stay with a 500k pot, any recommendations on capacitors that would keep the voice at the full on more in less intact (I'd be ok with it warming up a little) but provide a more pronounced roll off at 0?
     
  7. Axis39

    Axis39 New Member

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    @AndrewB, I am afraid I have not fiddled with my PRS (SE Santana), or dug into the innards of any PRS guitars. Only thing I did to mine was a set up... So, I have no idea what caps or pots they tend to have.

    I know the last two LPs I did I used a mix of .015 and .022 caps with 50's wiring. Of course the higher the cap value, the darker the tone (as the pot is engaged, or rolled off of 10). You can always go with a no-load pot and take the cap out of the circuit when the pot is on 10. So many options... LOL
     

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