SE Standard 245 (+ thoughts on wraparound bridges across range)

[Kabukiman]

Gday guys.

So the main reason I joined the forum was that I bought myself one of the new SE standard guitars.


photo upload


Long story short, needed to refret a guitar, those are expensive here. Decided to see what was on the market as a "spare" guitar around the same price, or within a couple of hundred dollars or so. I had heard praise for these new Indonesian guitars (and I had played a couple of higher-end Indonesian Ibanez that were very impressive) so I went and checked them out - and I came home with that.

Let's just say I can't put this thing down. After I set her up, she plays herself. Rings like a church bell, feeds back like a demon. As I said in another thread, this might be the only instrument I have obtained that won't be gutted and modified (for now). It's not a spare axe, it's just a great guitar.



Anyway, I had never been in the market for a full-bore US PRS ( I will be in the future thanks to this entry-level example), and as a result I have never used the wraparound bridge before.

I noticed this one tilts forward slightly, and I seem to suffer from the high string (high E if you tune to E standard) buzz deal that I have now read about online. I was wondering if anyone else has any issues with these bridges (I certainly don't have intonation issues, and apart from the high string I think it sounds great)? And, do the US versions have studs that allow this wiggle room or are they snug?

Does anyone make replacement studs that are a little more snug both in the thread and in the section that the bridge contacts? I am aware of replacement bridges but I really do dig the simplicity of this design and would prefer to keep it

Should I try to file the slot in the bridge down slightly so it sits more snugly?

Cheers

 

[Kabukiman]

Aha, I jumped the gun and I might have solved my own problem.

So now if anyone else with these axes is having the same issue, you can have a look at these:

http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and...r_Tailpiece_Parts/TonePros_Locking_Studs.html

If these lock down tight enough they will surely get rid of the bridge tilt.

I will order some and if they work, report back

 

[charliefrench]

This bridge is quite commonly fitted to PRS. Most people that have them on their guitars have never had a problem but an unlucky few have. I too had an issue with the same bridge tilting forward and hearing that sitar sound. Mine was on an older and much abused model. I solved mine by shimming the gap created on the stud shelf with thin 0.3mm copper heatsink material. There is still a little forward tilt but not so much Ravi Shankar. To make the job better I should take a look at eliminating the slack with the studs/bushings like you are doing. Nice looking guitar you have there.

http://forums.prsguitars.com/threads/custom-22-s2-setup-problems.20031/#post-302734

 

[dogrocketp]

I have two that lean. I put Schroeder locking studs, and a Schroeder bridge on them, problem solved. The stud holes weren't straight, so locking studs didn't straighten out the problem. Getting the contact point lessened with the bridge change did. On straight studs I like the stock bridge.

 

[charliefrench]

I thought my problem was solved with what I did but literally two or three days ago I began to hear a little sitar on the E again. The Schroeder bridge looks nice. Adjustable saddles too. Would prefer to have something intonateable. I have TOM bridges and stoptails in my parts box. Maybe I will look at putting these onto my beater SE Custom 22. But before I do that I will see what studs I have in my collection. If I can get by without spending money I will

 

[bodia]

MannMade 2300 will solve your problem. All day. Every day!

https://store.guitarvaultusa.com/MannMade_USA_Intonatable_Stoptail_Bridge_Assembly_p/2300.htm

 

[garrettb]

MannMade 2300 will solve your problem. All day. Every day!

https://store.guitarvaultusa.com/MannMade_USA_Intonatable_Stoptail_Bridge_Assembly_p/2300.htm

End of thread.


Really though, I had that issue on my SE One. The tech blamed the bridge, but I wasn't entirely convinced. I used the Tonepros studs on a past SE and they worked great. A set-and-forget mod. My only gripe was the chrome plating didn't match the plating on the SE bridge. I would recommend going for nickel if you decide the MannMade bridge isn't for you.

P.S. I love a black Singlecut!

 

[jimfisher]

Had the very same issue with mine and the problem was the poor fit between the studs and the stud wells. John Mann fixed me up with his metric stud wells and I was able to use my Tone Pros studs and stock PRS bridge. Problem solved!

Jim

 

[Kabukiman]

Thanks guys

I think I will give the locking studs a shot. On mine the studs themselves do lean slightly but I think if I can tilt the bridge back slightly it won't be an issue.

End of thread.


Really though, I had that issue on my SE One. The tech blamed the bridge, but I wasn't entirely convinced. I used the Tonepros studs on a past SE and they worked great. A set-and-forget mod. My only gripe was the chrome plating didn't match the plating on the SE bridge. I would recommend going for nickel if you decide the MannMade bridge isn't for you.

P.S. I love a black Singlecut!

Mismatched hardware was never an issue for me. My LP had gold tuners, nickel bridge, chrome tailpiece etc for a little while, and mismatched pickup rings. I don't mind the parts-bin look tbh (she's all uniform now anyway)

Yes I was actually in-store to find the burst model. When I saw the black, I thought it was a classy way to finish this kind of guitar. It seems to me PRS discontinued this finish however? A pity I think it's nice.

 

[Kabukiman]

Oh btw I do like the look of those adjustable bridges, but I also really do love this simple static piece and since intonation is fine for me I wanted to try and keep it on the guitar

thanks fellas

 

[andy474x]

The tonepros locking studs work very well. Just be sure not to adjust them with any tension on the strings. I have them on my Akesson and love 'em!

 

[Kabukiman]

The tonepros locking studs work very well. Just be sure not to adjust them with any tension on the strings. I have them on my Akesson and love 'em!

I think I will order them next time it needs a string change and drop them in.

I had actually adjusted these factory ones slightly (I'm talking less than an 8th of a turn) under tension like I used to with my tunematic guitars... then I read not to. Does it wreck the threads or something? Thanks for pointing it out, I certainly wouldn't want to buy the tonepros parts and mess them up right away

 

[garrettb]

I think I will order them next time it needs a string change and drop them in.

I had actually adjusted these factory ones slightly (I'm talking less than an 8th of a turn) under tension like I used to with my tunematic guitars... then I read not to. Does it wreck the threads or something? Thanks for pointing it out, I certainly wouldn't want to buy the tonepros parts and mess them up right away

It just scratches the posts all to hell.

 

[andy474x]

I think I will order them next time it needs a string change and drop them in.

I had actually adjusted these factory ones slightly (I'm talking less than an 8th of a turn) under tension like I used to with my tunematic guitars... then I read not to. Does it wreck the threads or something? Thanks for pointing it out, I certainly wouldn't want to buy the tonepros parts and mess them up right away

On the tonepros, the threaded post that locks the parts together around the bridge is thin, they'll break if adjusted under tension.

 

[Kabukiman]

thanks m8s

I am going to order them now, might as well.

Hopefully this is the only little mod this axe will ever need. Apart from that high string it plays so nicely, I am really impressed by the stuff coming out of Indonesia right now. If any of you who own the US PRS need a "spare" guitar or a backup, 10/10 would recommend (just budget for bridge mods!).

All of my others turned into parts-bin specials with all kinds of hardware and electronics changes, I think it's nice to buy a guitar off the shelf that does just fine for once!

 

[Kabukiman]

I thought my problem was solved with what I did but literally two or three days ago I began to hear a little sitar on the E again. The Schroeder bridge looks nice. Adjustable saddles too. Would prefer to have something intonateable. I have TOM bridges and stoptails in my parts box. Maybe I will look at putting these onto my beater SE Custom 22. But before I do that I will see what studs I have in my collection. If I can get by without spending money I will

I missed this post

My only gripe (yes it's a silly one since it takes like a decade..) with tunematics is that they sag with time. My LP's tunematic is starting to do it - I don't even have the tailpiece set low (I like slinky strings).

 

[qbert]

I have a Bernie Marsden SE. I’m told it’s a 12” fretboard radius. I bought Schroeder locking studs... good stuff. I’m looking for an intonatable bridge now. Mann vs Schroeder...

Mann is $175, 10” radius, can’t get without the studs for cheaper price (I called and asked... very nice folks, though), matches string spacing of the Bernie bridge.

Schroeder is ~$135, can be notched to 12” radius to match Bernie, has ~54mm string spacing (over 1mm wider than stock bridge).

My concerns:
- 10” radius of Mann won’t be good for my 12” fretboard.
- 54mm string spacing of Schroeder would be too wide for the fretboard?????? But, this would better fit the 53mm pole piece spread of Suhr bridge Thornbucker I plan to get.

Oh great knowers all of guitardom, what should I do????

 

[dsenoj]

I have a Bernie Marsden SE. I’m told it’s a 12” fretboard radius. I bought Schroeder locking studs... good stuff. I’m looking for an intonatable bridge now. Mann vs Schroeder...

Mann is $175, 10” radius, can’t get without the studs for cheaper price (I called and asked... very nice folks, though), matches string spacing of the Bernie bridge.

Schroeder is ~$135, can be notched to 12” radius to match Bernie, has ~54mm string spacing (over 1mm wider than stock bridge).

My concerns:
- 10” radius of Mann won’t be good for my 12” fretboard.
- 54mm string spacing of Schroeder would be too wide for the fretboard?????? But, this would better fit the 53mm pole piece spread of Suhr bridge Thornbucker I plan to get.

Oh great knowers all of guitardom, what should I do????

Are you sure your Bernie Marsden SE has a 12" radius? I don't remember reading that anywhere before. I thought it was 10" like most core and SE PRS guitars.

 

[qbert]

Are you sure your Bernie Marsden SE has a 12" radius? I don't remember reading that anywhere before. I thought it was 10" like most core and SE PRS guitars.

Nope ... just read it somewhere on the interwebs... I guess I need to get some radius gauges and check it myself....

 

[Eddie kim]

If it’s a brand new guitars, have the dealer you bought it from take care of the issue. I would call prs customer service let them help you.