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Discussion in 'Electric Instruments' started by slev, Apr 26, 2012.
Woah, that's sic. I'll be sure to check it out.
Hey, is that a Zach Myers too?
Funny, I actually prefer the texture on these brass ones without the nickel plating.
Yeah, I have a 2016 model Zach Myers with the big SE text on so I was quite curious to see how your headstock mods turned out. I have a 2018 SE CU24 floyd rose too and much prefer the new headstock signature with small SE to how they used to be.
Ditto. The repro was in fact, the new SE logo with the sig but with the SE cut off. I figured that it looked better without the SE since I was shooting for a McCarty look.
This may be a dumb question, is the tuner attached in that position? If so, how? I have a few of those but the PRS headstock doesn't leave much room to clip them on.
Oh! I'm glad you asked. The NS tuner is actually fastened by a provided screw on the A string tuning machine. It's not the clip on variety sadly. =(
2018 SE Tremonti Custom loaded with Tremonti USA pickups
Will eventually upgrade the nut
Looking for locking tuners that don't require drilling
Thinking about a Tremo-no or possibly USA tremolo unit. Hard to decide. I want tuning stability
Also considering upgrading jack, pots, and toggle to USA versions. Not sure if results would justify
Might swap pup rings. Black in the bridge to match the Squabbins and chrome for the neck
Also looking for a certain type of metal worker who can do a totally unique cover for this Tremonti bass pup. Don't ask. I wanna be the first guitarist in the world to have it.
Need to get Paul and Mark's autographs on it
Get these. Or, if you want, contact John. You can send him your tuners and he will convert them to locking, just like those in the link.
Ordering black chrome right now thanks mate
You bet! If yours is a trem version, add the MannMade 2000NOS trem to your upgrade wishlist. The one piece unit, from the Mann that designed the original PRS Trem, is the bomb!
I've heard of it. Haven't done any research. It's a tough call to make.
I spent many years putting strings on, tuning them once, and playing them for many months on end without ever tuning again. Now, I suffer from a bad ear for tuning problems but, I'm combating that by tuning a whole lot.
It don't take much to knock this SE trem out. And I hammer the dog shyte outta my 9s with my 1.4mm Dunlop Ultex Sharps so...
My dealer filed the nut a bit and I use pencil lead to keep it lubed up nice. That helps but, I'm starting to be able to hear when things are a few cents off.
I use a BOSS TU2 and the strings will often be out by one or two lights so, I imagine that to be about 10-20 cents.
I know that Mark Tremonti himself has hard tail versions that he uses so, I don't have a clue if the USA Tremolo will stay in tune or not. I already know I don't want to F with a FR.
Tell you what though, I'm never buying another tremolo guitar ever again. Too much to fool with.
Plus, any mods that I do to this guitar, I want to be able to return it to factory stock with no evidence for if/when I sell it.
I said I would never sell this thing but, I said that about my Gibson SG, too. And then the neck warped.
That's a pro-tip for you: If you're changing string gauges, you need to adjust that truss rod. And if you're going to leave it sitting in an alternate tuning, you'll need to have the truss rod set for that. Oh, and guitar stands that lean the weight on the neck aren't the best option. I learned these things the hard way
I was able to pawn off the SG in exchange for my Tremonti USA pickups with install though so, it all worked out in the end.
Tremontinator, check that all 6 of the bridge mounting screws are set at the same height. Mine was the same, would go out of tune with whammy use. I used a very small allen wrench to check the gaps between plate and bottom of screw heads, and found a couple were off. I had put on locking tuners, and nut sauce on nut and bridge screws, but once I set the screws all even, it can take a lot of extreme whammy use and stays in tune. I didn’t remove strings or springs, just needed slight adjustment to a couple of screws and voila, awesome tuning stability. This is with the stock nut, no need to change it on mine.
PRS trems (Core), and the MannMade are very, very stable. Once you get the locking tuners on yours, you'll be in better shape. Just remember, pull the string through, tighten the locking screw, and trim the string. You want no wraps around that post! The US nut would help, too. Although, if you've had yours widened by a tech, it should be better. Still, a cheap fix to go with a Core nut.
And, just to get you all on board with the non-SE trem, maybe we can get @sergiodeblanc to tell the story of a particular video shoot where he tuned once, and abused for 8 hours. I won't ask him to post the video, and I'm not going looking for it again!
brass nut, and schaller locking tuners.
I'll do that tomorrow. I'm half asleep atm
8 hours of tremolo abuse?
Dimebag would be proud
Believe me, I'm looking for excuses to upgrade to core parts where financially possible
I was willing to take the hit and drill the headstock to mount Phase III tuners but, well...
That's pretty much how I feel. I have an SE Custom 24 and I simply blocked the trem which solved the tuning problems I was having. It's easy to do and doesn't require additional hardware, although there is a cool thingie called a Tremol-No that I've heard works well.
I was thinking about getting one of those
Broke down and upgraded pots and blade switch on the 30th Anniv. SE CU24. Took 2 tries to get the wiring right. I ordered the kit from Huddys Guitar Shop through eBay. I had to enlarge holes for the new pots and fanegal the switch tip on because I found out after the fact, that those are sold separately.
Anyway the new harness and pots do make a difference over the OEM parts. Full humbucker mode is louder and heavier like a Humbucker should be. Split coil mode is a significant drop in volume but also a significant increase in clarity. Definitely going to take some time to find my tones on this one again.
Dammit. Now, I got more **** to buy...
Really, the wiring harness? Copper is copper
It's more about the gauge they used and how well everything is soldered together. Very solid one piece unit that drops right in, once you ream out the holes. Once you make the correct and final connections it's a game changer for sure.