SE Mods

bigcraigie_1

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May 24, 2015
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Looking for thoughts on pots and selector switch as this will be the final piece of the puzzle for me.

I've already upgraded my SE CU24 30th with Grover locking tuners, Tusq nut, Seymour Duncans and a Mann Made bridge. The guitar plays great, sounds amazing and doesn't go out of tune. Only thing I haven't done is the pots, switch and jack.

I want to install the best quality as it is my number one axe now, so what have you guys went for? Seymour Duncan, DiMarzio, Bournes etc

Also still deciding on what to do about the switch. Any of you guys went for a super 5 way? Or best staying traditional with 3 way and push pull.
 

bodia

Authorities said.....best leave it.....unsolved
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Jan 21, 2015
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Looking for thoughts on pots and selector switch as this will be the final piece of the puzzle for me.

I've already upgraded my SE CU24 30th with Grover locking tuners, Tusq nut, Seymour Duncans and a Mann Made bridge. The guitar plays great, sounds amazing and doesn't go out of tune. Only thing I haven't done is the pots, switch and jack.

I want to install the best quality as it is my number one axe now, so what have you guys went for? Seymour Duncan, DiMarzio, Bournes etc

Also still deciding on what to do about the switch. Any of you guys went for a super 5 way? Or best staying traditional with 3 way and push pull.
I haven't gotten around to pots, switch and jack on my Bernie yet, but when I do I'll be ordering from PRS, I think. Just my .02
 

bigcraigie_1

New Member
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May 24, 2015
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I have looked at that option and seems to be the most expensive option, but does the price justify. It does seems to be the obvious choice though. Anyone got anything to say on the 5 way super switch?
 

Merlin01

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Feb 5, 2016
Messages
28
I've already upgraded my SE CU24 30th with Grover locking tuners,...
Can I ask what model Grover tuners you used? I have a 2016 SE CU24 that was an absolute dog out of the box for tuning stability, I changed to a TUSQ nut and got the Grover 406C locking tuners but the high E (0.010) just breaks in the post when tightening. Just wondering if there are other drop-in models of Grovers that don't break strings?
 

Boogie

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I have looked at that option and seems to be the most expensive option, but does the price justify. It does seems to be the obvious choice though. Anyone got anything to say on the 5 way super switch?
I have one and used it in the past. Works as advertised.
 

Duffy

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Jan 6, 2014
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Can I ask what model Grover tuners you used? I have a 2016 SE CU24 that was an absolute dog out of the box for tuning stability, I changed to a TUSQ nut and got the Grover 406C locking tuners but the high E (0.010) just breaks in the post when tightening. Just wondering if there are other drop-in models of Grovers that don't break strings?

The trick with the thin strings is to wrap them a few times around the post to 'distribute the force' around the post and away from the knifelike edge of the string hole in the peg, up against the sharp, abrupt edge of the hole where all the winding force is going to be focused on that sharp edge of the post hole. It makes sense to wrap a few winds around the post to distribute the cutting force 'away' from the hole edge and spread the force around the post. Cutting of the string problem is eliminated.

I have also found that minor modification allows yoyo to use the s
Can I ask what model Grover tuners you used? I have a 2016 SE CU24 that was an absolute dog out of the box for tuning stability, I changed to a TUSQ nut and got the Grover 406C locking tuners but the high E (0.010) just breaks in the post when tightening. Just wondering if there are other drop-in models of Grovers that don't break strings?
 

Duffy

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The trick with the thin strings is to wrap them a few times around the post to 'distribute the force' around the post and away from the knifelike edge of the string hole in the peg, up against the sharp, abrupt edge of the hole where all the winding force is going to be focused on that sharp edge of the post hole. It makes sense to wrap a few winds around the post to distribute the cutting force 'away' from the hole edge and spread the force around the post. Cutting of the string problem is eliminated.

I have also found that minor modification allows yoyo to use the super nice Grover Rotomatic 'Rotor-Grip' locking tuners with the locking wheel on the bottom of the head stock. Ultra fine 18/1 gear ratio allows for ultra precision tuning. You might have to fill a hole but they are worth it just for the coefficient of cool. But they are incredibly nice tuners compared to the plain looking 406c's I sometimes use.

Look for the Grover Rotor-Grips on Amazon, etc., you will thank yourself. I super dig them.
 

Merlin01

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Feb 5, 2016
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The trick with the thin strings is to wrap them a few times around the post to 'distribute the force' around the post and away from the knife-like edge of the string hole in the peg, up against the sharp, abrupt edge of the hole where all the winding force is going to be focused on that sharp edge of the post hole. It makes sense to wrap a few winds around the post to distribute the cutting force 'away' from the hole edge and spread the force around the post. Cutting of the string problem is eliminated.
Thanks for the tip. Will try that today. I haven't had a problem with anything but the 0.010, but are you saying this problem can happen on the "B" or the "G" as well??
 

bluenova

Electrified since '84
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Aug 5, 2014
Messages
334
Thanks for the tip. Will try that today. I haven't had a problem with anything but the 0.010, but are you saying this problem can happen on the "B" or the "G" as well??
If you do change tuners look at the Schaller m6 minis. They drop right like the grovers. I hated the auto locking mechanism of the grovers and always look for something with a manual knob now to tighten. I mean seriously those grovers almost slow down string changes.
 
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Merlin01

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Feb 5, 2016
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If you do change tuners look at the Schiller m6 minis. They drop right like the grovers. I hated the auto locking mechanism of the grovers and always look for something with a manual knob now to tighten. I mean seriously those grovers almost slow down string changes.
Yes, I've only done 2 changes (broke both 0.010's) and found it a little awkward aligning both holes, keeping the string tight and winding the peg at the same time..

I chose the Grovers because I was having trouble with tuning stability and thought locking tuners would help with that. They didn't help/solve my problem 100% (was a little better after installing them), but I put a new Nut on at the same time, so who knows which one made the difference.

It's still not gig worthy, but I'm gonna try a different brand of strings on the next change and hope I get better tuning performance - it's a long shot but I'm hopeful.

If that doesn't work, then the only other thing it could be is the bridge - in which case, I'd feel quite foolish for buying into PRS's marketing "Studio/Stage ready out of the box" when my reality is replacing every component the strings touch before it's anywhere near stable.

Anyways, the Schaller M6 Mini's don't appear to be locking tuners, are you ok with that / or do they work well for you??
 

bigcraigie_1

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May 24, 2015
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Can I ask what model Grover tuners you used? I have a 2016 SE CU24 that was an absolute dog out of the box for tuning stability, I changed to a TUSQ nut and got the Grover 406C locking tuners but the high E (0.010) just breaks in the post when tightening. Just wondering if there are other drop-in models of Grovers that don't break strings?

I have the 406c and for me they did take a little getting used to with a few string breaks along the way (only on the high E). I find it was best to still have a couple of winds round the post even though you shouldn't really have to. Even with both the upgraded tuners ans tusq nut, I still had some tuning stability issues (although greatly improved). Wasn't until I dropped in the Mann Made trem that its now extremely stable not to mention more "alive" sounding.
 

bluenova

Electrified since '84
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Yes, I've only done 2 changes (broke both 0.010's) and found it a little awkward aligning both holes, keeping the string tight and winding the peg at the same time..

I chose the Grovers because I was having trouble with tuning stability and thought locking tuners would help with that. They didn't help/solve my problem 100% (was a little better after installing them), but I put a new Nut on at the same time, so who knows which one made the difference.

It's still not gig worthy, but I'm gonna try a different brand of strings on the next change and hope I get better tuning performance - it's a long shot but I'm hopeful.

If that doesn't work, then the only other thing it could be is the bridge - in which case, I'd feel quite foolish for buying into PRS's marketing "Studio/Stage ready out of the box" when my reality is replacing every component the strings touch before it's anywhere near stable.

Anyways, the Schaller M6 Mini's don't appear to be locking tuners, are you ok with that / or do they work well for you??
You're right, it was the regular locking M6 tuners I was thinking about, not the mini. They work great!!
 

Merlin01

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Feb 5, 2016
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I have the 406c and for me they did take a little getting used to with a few string breaks along the way (only on the high E). I find it was best to still have a couple of winds round the post even though you shouldn't really have to. Even with both the upgraded tuners ans tusq nut, I still had some tuning stability issues (although greatly improved). Wasn't until I dropped in the Mann Made trem that its now extremely stable not to mention more "alive" sounding.
That's kinda sad, but good to know - thanks. I have Mr. Mann bookmarked and might have to pay him a visit.

You're right, it was the regular locking M6 tuners I was thinking about, not the mini. They work great!!
Ok, thanks for that.
 

bigcraigie_1

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May 24, 2015
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That's kinda sad, but good to know - thanks. I have Mr. Mann bookmarked and might have to pay him a visit.


Ok, thanks for that.

The Mann Made trem was the best upgrade I made to my SE, well worth the money. Also worth pointing out that even with all the upgrades I did, it still worked out cheaper than an S2 which shares many of its parts with the SE line.
 

Merlin01

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Feb 5, 2016
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The Mann Made trem was the best upgrade I made to my SE, well worth the money. Also worth pointing out that even with all the upgrades I did, it still worked out cheaper than an S2 which shares many of its parts with the SE line.
I checked in on the Mann webpage and found he also does SE locking Phase II tuners that looked pretty good for a Grover 406C alternative. He also suggested I swap out the TUSQ for a PRS Core line nut. Then the beautiful 2000NOS bridge - which I'm eyeing off at the moment (and the tuners). The problem is with currency conversion and shipping the bridge and tuners would cost me around $500 to get here, which is half the price of the guitar here. Kinda disappointing to refit almost all the hardware just so it performs as an instrument, but it is what it is unfortunately.
 

dkilpatrick

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It really must depend on the guitar. I did almost the exact same mods as bigcraigie to my SE CU2430th,
Grover 406 locking tuners
Prs nut
SD pups
Mann made trem.

This was more for playability and tonal reasons.
I had no tuning stability issues in it's stock form, and I have no tuning stability issues with the grovers.
I just prefer locking tuners over non-locking
Maybe I got lucky.

I can say that the biggest noticeable difference tone-wise was the Mann bridge. It really brought out the coil split sounds. I think I play it more in split mode now then I do in full hum-bucker.
Hopefully you get it sorted out.
 

bluenova

Electrified since '84
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Aug 5, 2014
Messages
334
I checked in on the Mann webpage and found he also does SE locking Phase II tuners that looked pretty good for a Grover 406C alternative. He also suggested I swap out the TUSQ for a PRS Core line nut. Then the beautiful 2000NOS bridge - which I'm eyeing off at the moment (and the tuners). The problem is with currency conversion and shipping the bridge and tuners would cost me around $500 to get here, which is half the price of the guitar here. Kinda disappointing to refit almost all the hardware just so it performs as an instrument, but it is what it is unfortunately.
Really the only thing with the SE's is the nut is cut for 9's. If you go larger the strings stick in the nut a little and that's where the tuning stability goes away. I've got a tusq nut on my SE and it's been great, no binding at all with 10's and I have never had to touch it with a file... love it. You've got the hardware right now for stable tuning. Maybe the strings are still stretching out? Is it always going flat?
 

Merlin01

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Feb 5, 2016
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Really the only thing with the SE's is the nut is cut for 9's. If you go larger the strings stick in the nut a little and that's where the tuning stability goes away. I've got a tusq nut on my SE and it's been great, no binding at all with 10's and I have never had to touch it with a file... love it. You've got the hardware right now for stable tuning. Maybe the strings are still stretching out? Is it always going flat?
Yes, this was the first issue from the supplier/retailer. I had requested 10's and a setup in E-flat tuning and they told me the nut would be fine (after I pointed out the stock nut is made for 9's). It was not fine at all when it shipped.
So I took it to a local Luthier to have the TUSQ nut fitted and another setup done on it. It was better after this but still had tremolo issues - I don't mean dive bombing so the strings are hanging off the neck, I know it's not a completely locked system and I wouldn't expect it to hold up to that kind of treatment and come back in tune, I mean in a very tame way to give chords some mild vibrato. This is where it'll go sharp primarily on the G-string, but inconsistently on others as well (B,D,A,Low-E). These sharp strings will come back after a larger than huge bend, but never to their original tune. All pivot points (knife edge) on the leading edge of the bridge holes are aligned with their screws (luthier set). My two-screw trem on my Strat is rock solid for the same kind of tremolo work and that has a stock nut and tuners (nothing locking).
I changed the brand of strings yesterday and initial playing was good and after a bit of stretching they were doing really well, I'll have another go at it today and add in the tremolo to see how they hold up - fingers crossed.
 

Merlin01

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Feb 5, 2016
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Still useless :(
The D'addario's held tune much better than the Elixirs under non-tremolo playing conditions. But with the tremolo arm in I just have to hint at using it and all strings will go up between 10-45 cents in tuning. So with locking tuners, TUSQ nut, & new strings, it still looks like a binding issue or defective bridge (I don't know if bridges can be defective, but this POS doesn't work).
 
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