Mod done; MannMade brass in place...
So i went ahead and purchased the brass SE trem block from MannMadeUSA, as well as the USA Amber speed knobs. Previously, I had the guitar set up with a Tusq nut and cobalt 11's when I purchased from sweetwater.com. (String size is something I will always change as neither 10's nor especially 9's sound good to me.) I also installed previously the schaller strap locks as I do on all my guitars. I installed the Tremonti usa pups last Christmas after I rec'd them as a gift. Now, onto today's mod. Although I had learned how to setup the prs trem by watching videos and reading, I never liked that when I got the guitar from sweetwater, the trem height was about correct on the bass side, but nearly touching the body on the treble, with screws not in line. I had been able to set it up to stay in tune, so long as didn't constantly dive all the way down, so I shyed away from the dreaded "knife-edge". Trust me folks, watch John Mann's video on installing his one piece NOS2000 in an SE, and it really is THAT easy. I'll most likely buy one of those at a later date, but the video showed me what I needed to know about installing a prs trem of any kind. For the first time since October 2013, I have a perfectly level bridge and bridge mount screws. I can honestly say, after setup, I tried to make it go out of tune with the bar, and was barely able to make the strobe move. Installing the block was cake (if u have the right tools). I had to quickly run out for a 3 mm Allen key to remove the SE block, but that was it. I first removed the strings and springs just as John does in the video (then made my appropriate knife edge adjs). Then, I measured the distance on all of my saddles to be able to get close before fine touching upon re-assembly. Next, remove the saddles (keep in same order, and if you were set up properly to start, won't need much adjustment for radius curve nor string height in the end). Here's where the 3mm key comes into play. U need it to remove the three screws mounting the block to the bridge. Once removed, push the MannMade arm sleeve into the bridge and align your three holes. I found it helped to go ahead and put the arm in to control the bridge. Install the furthest screw from the arm first, as the sleeve and that screw will work to align the other two holes properly. Then install the final two screws. Go back and firmly tighten all three. That's it. From here, it's simply a matter of performing a quality set up (and if u can't already do that, DO NOT attempt this). I'll post pictures and my opinion of the sound change tomorrow when I can plug her up. Initial impressions acoustically are that I'm very very happy.
So i went ahead and purchased the brass SE trem block from MannMadeUSA, as well as the USA Amber speed knobs. Previously, I had the guitar set up with a Tusq nut and cobalt 11's when I purchased from sweetwater.com. (String size is something I will always change as neither 10's nor especially 9's sound good to me.) I also installed previously the schaller strap locks as I do on all my guitars. I installed the Tremonti usa pups last Christmas after I rec'd them as a gift. Now, onto today's mod. Although I had learned how to setup the prs trem by watching videos and reading, I never liked that when I got the guitar from sweetwater, the trem height was about correct on the bass side, but nearly touching the body on the treble, with screws not in line. I had been able to set it up to stay in tune, so long as didn't constantly dive all the way down, so I shyed away from the dreaded "knife-edge". Trust me folks, watch John Mann's video on installing his one piece NOS2000 in an SE, and it really is THAT easy. I'll most likely buy one of those at a later date, but the video showed me what I needed to know about installing a prs trem of any kind. For the first time since October 2013, I have a perfectly level bridge and bridge mount screws. I can honestly say, after setup, I tried to make it go out of tune with the bar, and was barely able to make the strobe move. Installing the block was cake (if u have the right tools). I had to quickly run out for a 3 mm Allen key to remove the SE block, but that was it. I first removed the strings and springs just as John does in the video (then made my appropriate knife edge adjs). Then, I measured the distance on all of my saddles to be able to get close before fine touching upon re-assembly. Next, remove the saddles (keep in same order, and if you were set up properly to start, won't need much adjustment for radius curve nor string height in the end). Here's where the 3mm key comes into play. U need it to remove the three screws mounting the block to the bridge. Once removed, push the MannMade arm sleeve into the bridge and align your three holes. I found it helped to go ahead and put the arm in to control the bridge. Install the furthest screw from the arm first, as the sleeve and that screw will work to align the other two holes properly. Then install the final two screws. Go back and firmly tighten all three. That's it. From here, it's simply a matter of performing a quality set up (and if u can't already do that, DO NOT attempt this). I'll post pictures and my opinion of the sound change tomorrow when I can plug her up. Initial impressions acoustically are that I'm very very happy.