I noticed some people don’t wrap the string at all with locking tuners. It seems to me like you’d want 1/4 turn or more, so you have the string ‘breaking’ cleanly off the round shaft. So much effort goes in to shaping a nut and bridge saddle for a clean break, so why trust a random, non-precision face of a screw? Just thinking out loud...
Sadly, it happened to me once after installing the new SE locking the tuners.In 30 days or so years of playing, I’ve never had a string break on a locking tuner. Several different makes.
Are these the kind of locking tuners that don't have the wheel at the base of the tuner but rather using a screwdriver on the top of the shaft? I hate those kind of locking tuners!just purchased the SE locking tuners for my 2020 35th anniversary se custom 24
was not sure if it would be a worthy upgrade as I thought the tuning was ok with the Std tuners but thought I would check them out.
Well after the upgrade , wow these are good tuners.
It’s a worthy upgrade .
Not just for the locking but the tuner gearing is better as well.
just my 2c
they are not cheap but worth it it your se is your main guitar and a keeper .
I've never had string slippage on non-locking tuners and I never used any kind of technique in winding them on the peghead.I think people mistake 'locking' tuners with tuning stability. They can help if you don't know how to wind strings round a post properly and they slip or move but in general, the primary advantage is ease and speed of string changes. The tuner shouldn't become 'loose' and unwind regardless of whether its a locking tuner or not! If it is, there is usually a screw to tighten it so it doesn't slip.
The primary cause of most tuning instability is the nut which has too much 'friction' for the string to return to position after bends. Other causes can be the trem with the string not sitting back in the saddle or not returning perfectly to horizontal if floating. Its rarely the tuner - unless the tuner is cheap or loose. The reason Gibsons have more issues with tuning stability is the nut and the angle the string leaves the nut to the tuner. That angle creates more fricion than a straight string pull. Often replacing a 'cheap' nut, making sure the nut is cut properly for the string gauge or even using some lubrication solves the majority of tuning stability issues. Switching to locking tuners is mostly about easier/quicker string changes - but can help if you don't know how to wrap strings OR the tuners are cheap...
They are more like the former. They have a thumbscrew on the top of the shaft, but it works the same as those with the thumb wheel on the back. Great tuners, highly recommend.Are these the kind of locking tuners that don't have the wheel at the base of the tuner but rather using a screwdriver on the top of the shaft? I hate those kind of locking tuners!
Are these the kind of locking tuners that don't have the wheel at the base of the tuner but rather using a screwdriver on the top of the shaft? I hate those kind of locking tuners!
The PRS top is a thumbscrew with groves and a slot if you want to get an extra little cinch with a coin, pick, or whatever. It's a different design from the vintage lockers on my strat and tele.Are these the kind of locking tuners that don't have the wheel at the base of the tuner but rather using a screwdriver on the top of the shaft?
They run on sale from time to time and pop up on reverb on the cheap. John Mann also modifies stock tuners to lockers.If I could get a set for $47 like OP, I might do it.
The Mann conversion is my favorite, best bang for buck. I have a few sets, all greatThey run on sale from time to time and pop up on reverb on the cheap. John Mann also modifies stock tuners to lockers.
Service - Locking Tuner Modification 6 string
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