SE Locking Tuners yes or no

Locking tuners aren't required to stop string slipping, as a kink in the string combined with little wraps works fine as per the method shown earlier.

What they do however, is give a premium feel, make restringing easier, and most importantly they usually have a lower gear ratio, which means that ethereal G string can actually be tuned to the correct pitch.
It's up to you wether that's worth the price. Let's face it, no-one likes re-stringing.
 
I think there are fewer lost vibrations on the head of the guitar with locking tuners. I also insist on locking studs on the stoptail bridges for the same reason. I think it affects the higher notes much more than the lower notes.
 
I think there’s a huge misconception going on about locking tuners.
The only thing “locked” is the string. The shaft still moves freely.
Are people thinking that there’s some kind of ratcheting affect that locks the shaft and keeps it from moving?
That would be a true locking tuner to me.
 
The locking post was my personal misconception. When I first heard of locking tuners, that was what made sense to me since there’s only minimal friction keeping the shaft/button from turning back under string tension. I also figured that, if you wind a string similar to a clove hitch knot (string wraps over it self), then it shouldn’t slip as long as the strings are tensioned. So a locking post tuner was what made sense to me.

I noticed some people don’t wrap the string at all with locking tuners. It seems to me like you’d want 1/4 turn or more, so you have the string ‘breaking’ cleanly off the round shaft. So much effort goes in to shaping a nut and bridge saddle for a clean break, so why trust a random, non-precision face of a screw? Just thinking out loud...
 
I noticed some people don’t wrap the string at all with locking tuners. It seems to me like you’d want 1/4 turn or more, so you have the string ‘breaking’ cleanly off the round shaft. So much effort goes in to shaping a nut and bridge saddle for a clean break, so why trust a random, non-precision face of a screw? Just thinking out loud...

I get what youre hinting at. For me, perhaps I dont fret over it too much because I use really light strings, so there's not a whole lot of tension pulling on the tuner shaft. I never have strings breaking or getting kinky, though I usually do end up putting a bit more than a quarter turn on the peg to get up to pitch. That's only on my SE Paul's due to the tuner design, with the big thumbscrew on the back. I put a different style on my 35th and I end up putting a full wind around the post.
 
In 30 days or so years of playing, I’ve never had a string break on a locking tuner. Several different makes.
Sadly, it happened to me once after installing the new SE locking the tuners.

I tried installing some flat-wound, round core strings and the low E snapped at the post while being brought up to pitch. I should have clamped on the thin leader, but it didn’t look like the post could take that many winds, so I clamped where I usually do. Lesson learned.

After that, I stuck with my usual round-wound, hex core strings and have been a happy camper ever since.
 
just purchased the SE locking tuners for my 2020 35th anniversary se custom 24

was not sure if it would be a worthy upgrade as I thought the tuning was ok with the Std tuners but thought I would check them out.

Well after the upgrade , wow these are good tuners.

It’s a worthy upgrade .

Not just for the locking but the tuner gearing is better as well.

just my 2c

they are not cheap but worth it it your se is your main guitar and a keeper .
Are these the kind of locking tuners that don't have the wheel at the base of the tuner but rather using a screwdriver on the top of the shaft? I hate those kind of locking tuners!
 
I think people mistake 'locking' tuners with tuning stability. They can help if you don't know how to wind strings round a post properly and they slip or move but in general, the primary advantage is ease and speed of string changes. The tuner shouldn't become 'loose' and unwind regardless of whether its a locking tuner or not! If it is, there is usually a screw to tighten it so it doesn't slip.

The primary cause of most tuning instability is the nut which has too much 'friction' for the string to return to position after bends. Other causes can be the trem with the string not sitting back in the saddle or not returning perfectly to horizontal if floating. Its rarely the tuner - unless the tuner is cheap or loose. The reason Gibsons have more issues with tuning stability is the nut and the angle the string leaves the nut to the tuner. That angle creates more fricion than a straight string pull. Often replacing a 'cheap' nut, making sure the nut is cut properly for the string gauge or even using some lubrication solves the majority of tuning stability issues. Switching to locking tuners is mostly about easier/quicker string changes - but can help if you don't know how to wrap strings OR the tuners are cheap...
I've never had string slippage on non-locking tuners and I never used any kind of technique in winding them on the peghead.
 
Are these the kind of locking tuners that don't have the wheel at the base of the tuner but rather using a screwdriver on the top of the shaft? I hate those kind of locking tuners!
They are more like the former. They have a thumbscrew on the top of the shaft, but it works the same as those with the thumb wheel on the back. Great tuners, highly recommend.
 
I put the PRS SE locking tuners on my SE DGT. I didn’t have any problems with the original tuners but I got spoiled by the locking tuners on my cores and now want locking tuners on all my guitars.
 
Are these the kind of locking tuners that don't have the wheel at the base of the tuner but rather using a screwdriver on the top of the shaft? I hate those kind of locking tuners!

Think of it this way; the small screw on the top of the tuner is light compared to the much larger and heavier screw beneath the tuner. The heavier screws on a light guitar contribute to neck dive.
 
I prefer to keep mine stock. It stays in tune. But I noticed it might drift if I use trem a lot.

If I could get a set for $47 like OP, I might do it.
 
Are these the kind of locking tuners that don't have the wheel at the base of the tuner but rather using a screwdriver on the top of the shaft?
The PRS top is a thumbscrew with groves and a slot if you want to get an extra little cinch with a coin, pick, or whatever. It's a different design from the vintage lockers on my strat and tele.
 
If I could get a set for $47 like OP, I might do it.
They run on sale from time to time and pop up on reverb on the cheap. John Mann also modifies stock tuners to lockers.

 
They run on sale from time to time and pop up on reverb on the cheap. John Mann also modifies stock tuners to lockers.

The Mann conversion is my favorite, best bang for buck. I have a few sets, all great
 
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