SE Locking Tuners yes or no

AtkinsGS

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Aug 16, 2020
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just purchased the SE locking tuners for my 2020 35th anniversary se custom 24

was not sure if it would be a worthy upgrade as I thought the tuning was ok with the Std tuners but thought I would check them out.

Well after the upgrade , wow these are good tuners.

It’s a worthy upgrade .

Not just for the locking but the tuner gearing is better as well.

just my 2c

they are not cheap but worth it it your se is your main guitar and a keeper .
 
Are SE locking tuners worth it? Never used the SE lockers. Cant really speak on how good they are.

buuut....

Are lockers worth it in general? Hell yes. Much better tuning stability, easier for re-stringing, and will make your life so much better if you have a tremolo system. Highly recommended to switch out for them.
 
Th PRS SE Locking Tuner installed on my SE HBII Piezo indeed improved tuning stability. Lighter gauge strings were less likely to go out of tune. Heavier gauge ones were less of an issue even with the non-locking tuners, but the locking tuners add an extra level of reassurance, especially for trem guitars. Though the SE HBII is a stop tail, the guitar just doesn't require as much re-tuning after a healthy string bend or 3 compared to non-locking tuners.
 
Yeah they are awesome! I had them on my last 245 and they look cool, work flawlessly and install in no time. Not that I ever had tuning stability issues with the non lockers, but the ease of string changes alone made it worth the money IMHO. I sold them with my last 245 (regrettably) just to sweeten the deal. But now that brother @Alnus Rubra hooked me up... There will definitely be a set on "Big Momma II" (my SE245) in the near future.!!
 
Sorry for a noob question but I've never used locking tuners. How do the SE locking tuners actually help with tuning stability? It looks like the thumb screw locks the string in place, but doesn't restrict the button from turning at all. Is that correct? I thought locking tuners traditionally clamped the shaft in place so it couldn't turn on its own, which would help with tuning stability.
 
I put a set on my 30th Anniversary SE Custom 24. You are correct about the thumb screw. Just pull the string through and taught, tighten the thumbscrew and its ready to tune to pitch. The precision machining of the gears is what keeps the shaft in place, all the thumbscrew does is keep the string in the shaft.

Hope that helps.
 
Sorry for a noob question but I've never used locking tuners. How do the SE locking tuners actually help with tuning stability? It looks like the thumb screw locks the string in place, but doesn't restrict the button from turning at all. Is that correct? I thought locking tuners traditionally clamped the shaft in place so it couldn't turn on its own, which would help with tuning stability.

No prob, that's a common misconception about locking tuners. Locking tuners do not lock the shaft in place, the only thing they do is lock the string in place. The way they help with tuning stability is like this: You'll constantly be going flat because the string, while under tension, is slipping out of the post. That's why its important as all heck to keep a good amount of winds around the post, but even then the string can still slip because inside the post there is nothing to hold it there. When you lock the string in the post, then it cant slip out, therefore no losing tune.
 
I think people mistake 'locking' tuners with tuning stability. They can help if you don't know how to wind strings round a post properly and they slip or move but in general, the primary advantage is ease and speed of string changes. The tuner shouldn't become 'loose' and unwind regardless of whether its a locking tuner or not! If it is, there is usually a screw to tighten it so it doesn't slip.

The primary cause of most tuning instability is the nut which has too much 'friction' for the string to return to position after bends. Other causes can be the trem with the string not sitting back in the saddle or not returning perfectly to horizontal if floating. Its rarely the tuner - unless the tuner is cheap or loose. The reason Gibsons have more issues with tuning stability is the nut and the angle the string leaves the nut to the tuner. That angle creates more fricion than a straight string pull. Often replacing a 'cheap' nut, making sure the nut is cut properly for the string gauge or even using some lubrication solves the majority of tuning stability issues. Switching to locking tuners is mostly about easier/quicker string changes - but can help if you don't know how to wrap strings OR the tuners are cheap...
 
What Mozzi said.
The other thing they do better is help prevent an excessive number of messy winds around the post, which can also create tuning stability issues. As the string stretches, a bunch of overlapping, messily-wound wraps around the post means that part of the string can continue to slowly stretch long after the string between the nut and bridge has settled.
Soooo NOT like this:
bad-guitar-string-installation.jpg
 
just purchased the SE locking tuners for my 2020 35th anniversary se custom 24..

Yes. Just got them installed on my new SE Santana Trem...

Same here, great tuners, and I like the brass shafts.

IMO, no matter how you secure the strings on the post of non-locking tuners, looping around, over-under, whatever, if you have any more than about half a wrap on the post you can get backlash, some string gripping/slipping on the post that can effect tuning stability. Eliminating any wraps on the post by using locking tuners can improve tuning stability, no matter how slight. The main reason that I like them is for ease of string changes, in addition to the stable tuning.
 
Same here, great tuners, and I like the brass shafts.

IMO, no matter how you secure the strings on the post of non-locking tuners, looping around, over-under, whatever, if you have any more than about half a wrap on the post you can get backlash, some string gripping/slipping on the post that can effect tuning stability. Eliminating any wraps on the post by using locking tuners can improve tuning stability, no matter how slight. The main reason that I like them is for ease of string changes, in addition to the stable tuning.

Agreed. I still remember many times where even when I had proper wrappings around my post, I'd still get a string slipping on occasion. It was rare, but it happened. I suppose I can amend my answer to this: Locking tuners dont really give you better tuning stability than correctly wrapped normal tuners, however they give better tuning stability while basically not winding the string around the post. The ease of string changing and the lack of not needing to do the crazy over/under wraps, that's what makes locking tuners a must in my book. I dunno, maybe its cause I'm getting old, or lazy, or both together.
 
Agreed. I still remember many times where even when I had proper wrappings around my post, I'd still get a string slipping on occasion. It was rare, but it happened. I suppose I can amend my answer to this: Locking tuners dont really give you better tuning stability than correctly wrapped normal tuners, however they give better tuning stability while basically not winding the string around the post. The ease of string changing and the lack of not needing to do the crazy over/under wraps, that's what makes locking tuners a must in my book. I dunno, maybe its cause I'm getting old, or lazy, or both together.

I couldn't go back to non-locking tuners now - even had to find a Hollowbody 594 2020 spec but before the Vintage Tuners were added as standard. I don't care if the sound 'better' to Pauls Ears, I would sacrifice that 'difference' for ease of string changes every time!!
 
I’m in the school of no wraps on the post, of a locking tuner.

Pull the string taut through the post and lock it off. Somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 a turn and the string is at pitch.

Don’t over tighten the thumb screw. I’ve never had a string slip.

I’m talking about Gotoh tuners, who also make PRS Core tuners.
 
There was a method Paul described for non locking tuners where the post hole is aligned with the nut slot and the string is pulled through with a half wrap back around then under and around the "front" of the post hole and string. When tuned up it locks the string in and place.

I've been using this method on all my guitars since and it works very very well.
 
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