SE Custom 24 Tuning issues

[sergiodeblanc]

Hoping that will be the case with mine, too, after the nut slots are widened. But I honestly can't believe they don't do something about this if so many people are having issues. Everything you read on here about them is "Great guitar, you just have to swap out the nut or file out the existing one."

Your guitar will be fine... promise.

The entire reason the SE line exists is to reach a certain price point.

Attention to detail can cost a lot of money in labor and unlike your ESP and Schecter the SE line is filled with proprietary parts that can cost more money to have made than sourcing them out from different manufactures like EMG, Tonepros, etc. Something has to give if you want 75% of that PRS vibe for 33% of the cost of a "real" PRS, I spent a few minutes with a glass of wine and a nail file to "fix" my stock nut and it works great.

 

[DarrenJ1973]

This thread kind of reinforces the argument that players should learn how to set up a guitar and do minor repairs, yet leave the major repairs to builders unless it's a warranty repair. Whilst Norseman might be getting his repair fee waived a tech would charge at least £15 to cut a nut plus strings, probably take the guitar from you for a week for what is essentially a 20-30 minute job.

 

[andy474x]

This thread inspired me to finally order a Tusq nut for my SE Custom 24 - I'm about to install it tonight. Cost about $10 on ebay (shipping included). If it doesn't turn out a complete disaster, I'll post a thread with some pictures and results. If it goes really well and is easily done, maybe we can make it a sticky or something, for future use by forum members.

 

[Mikegarveyblues]

This thread inspired me to finally order a Tusq nut for my SE Custom 24 - I'm about to install it tonight. Cost about $10 on ebay (shipping included). If it doesn't turn out a complete disaster, I'll post a thread with some pictures and results. If it goes really well and is easily done, maybe we can make it a sticky or something, for future use by forum members.

Hey Andy, it shouldn't be too hard... Just go slowly. This may help:

http://prsguitars.com/forum/showthread.php?3938-To-mod-or-not-to-mod!&p=61362&viewfull=1#post61362

 

[andy474x]

Hey Andy, it shouldn't be too hard... Just go slowly. This may help:

http://prsguitars.com/forum/showthread.php?3938-To-mod-or-not-to-mod!&p=61362&viewfull=1#post61362

Ah, well you already beat me to it! Haha. Thanks a lot for the tips Mike, I just got done and it turned out very nicely thanks to your help. I think I may still post the project in a seperate thread just because it's a popular topic and it will be a good reference - but much of the credit will be going to you!

 

[Jon van derlim]

To update, I took my C 24 SE back to mansons and their tech had a further look at it after he could not get it to stay in tune after trem use, it turns out there is a fault with the trem pivot screws (not in alignment) and they have ordered me a new guitar.

Edit,
Darren, I whole heartedly agree that players should learn how to set up their own guitars and I have been doing so for years (action, intonation truss rod etc), however when a guitar is brand new I would strongly advise against changing the set up dramatically as if there was an issue with the guitar the retailer may void the warranty as its been tampered with.

just my 2p

 

[Norseman]

To update, I took my C 24 SE back to mansons and their tech had a further look at it after he could not get it to stay in tune after trem use, it turns out there is a fault with the trem pivot screws (not in alignment) and they have ordered me a new guitar.

Edit,
Darren, I whole heartedly agree that players should learn how to set up their own guitars and I have been doing so for years (action, intonation truss rod etc), however when a guitar is brand new I would strongly advise against changing the set up dramatically as if there was an issue with the guitar the retailer may void the warranty as its been tampered with.

just my 2p

Ah man that sucks!! Well at least you're getting a new guitar.

And I agree with learning to do your own work - for the most part. I always do my own intonation, action, truss adjustments ...I even gutted my ESP and swapped the Active EMGs for Passive Gibson pups (guitar sounds amazing now). That took me two full evenings after work, but I learned a lot! I've just never messed with a nut before. But IF for some reason I couldn't return the guitar to Guitar Center and they wouldn't waive the fee to do it for me, I was definitely thinking about experimenting with this one.

 

[Norseman]

Also, Sergio, I see your point about having a guitar that's 75% the real deal at 33% of the price tag, but c'mon ...how hard would it be for them to stick a $6 Tusq nut in there (or comparable) and charge me $6 more? lol

 

[Mikegarveyblues]

Your guitar will be fine... promise.

The entire reason the SE line exists is to reach a certain price point.

Attention to detail can cost a lot of money in labor and unlike your ESP and Schecter the SE line is filled with proprietary parts that can cost more money to have made than sourcing them out from different manufactures like EMG, Tonepros, etc. Something has to give if you want 75% of that PRS vibe for 33% of the cost of a "real" PRS, I spent a few minutes with a glass of wine and a nail file to "fix" my stock nut and it works great.

Also, Sergio, I see your point about having a guitar that's 75% the real deal at 33% of the price tag, but c'mon ...how hard would it be for them to stick a $6 Tusq nut in there (or comparable) and charge me $6 more? lol

I see both points here.

My experience - as small as it is - is that the SE's are up there with guitars (Some built in the US by another manufacturer) that cost a lot more. They ARE great guitars that offer a whole lot for the money - of that there is no doubt. But at the same time, you should be able to pull one out of the box and have it stay in tune pretty well. A well cut nut is absolutely essential to the overall playability and tuning stability of the guitar. I'd rather put up with a minor finish issue than a poorly cut nut any time. I'd much, much rather pay that bit extra at the till knowing i'm not going to have to sort something out to make it play how I expect.

Regardless, PRS And PRS SE's rock!

 

[Norseman]

Yeah that's kind of my point, too. Like it's such a simple thing for them to fix so that there wouldn't be all these people complaining and running out to mod the nut. Charge me $6 more and resolve the problem.

 

[Victek]

Yeah that's kind of my point, too. Like it's such a simple thing for them to fix so that there wouldn't be all these people complaining and running out to mod the nut. Charge me $6 more and resolve the problem.

You have to ask is it the materials or QC? It may be that the stock nut is fine and the problem is it's not optimally installed on some small percentage of guitars - just speculating here. I have an SE with the stock nut and don't have a problem keeping it in tune when playing typical string bending blues lead.

 

[CoreyT]

Rob Chapman who does the videos with Lee from Anderton's in the UK has his own line of guitars now made at World Music Instrument, same place as the SEs.
His are coming with the 43mm TUSQ Nut as stock.

 

[Mikegarveyblues]

You have to ask is it the materials or QC? It may be that the stock nut is fine and the problem is it's not optimally installed on some small percentage of guitars - just speculating here. I have an SE with the stock nut and don't have a problem keeping it in tune when playing typical string bending blues lead.

I think it's just QC on some of the SE's.

The stock nut on my SE C24 seemed much closer to the TUSQ nut I ordered than some of the nuts on my other (Non SE and or non Tusq fitted) guitars. Indeed they sounded very similar indeed when dropped onto a hard suface. I reckon the SE nuts are perfectly fine when they're cut right. Until I was able to compare the stock SE nut directly with Tusq I did think they where not up to scratch material wise but I was wrong on that. Just the QC when it comes to the cutting of the nut.

The slots on both nuts taken from my two SE's where very rough with burrs. Rough corners. SE C24 had some slots cut too low and the spacing was off on the Bernie so widening the slots wasn't going to cut it. They had to be replaced, but both where QC issues and the ONLY QC issues.

It's interesting... I presume the nuts SE, US, Tusq, etc are all injection moulded. The slots on the Tusq where perfect. Super smooth. I'm wondering why they don't just make the SE nuts like Graphtech make theirs and just sand from the bottom to get the right height?

 

[Jon van derlim]

Further update, I have just returned to the office after collecting my replacement SE C24, I spent a good 15 mins in the shop playing the guitar with the trem and doing big string bends and tuning stability was so much better, the nut looks also to have been nicely cut with some big bends nut sauce added too.

Fingers crossed for this one but initial impressions are all good:vroam:

 

[Victek]

Further update, I have just returned to the office after collecting my replacement SE C24, I spent a good 15 mins in the shop playing the guitar with the trem and doing big string bends and tuning stability was so much better, the nut looks also to have been nicely cut with some big bends nut sauce added too. Fingers crossed for this one but initial impressions are all good:vroam:

Can you post a screenshot? I've heard the Tusq nut is a little thinner than stock, and there's a slight gap between the nut and headstock. Is that true? Also I thought the Tusq nuts were self-lubricating; does nut sauce make a difference?

 

[Jon van derlim]

Yeah, will do but over the weekend, the tech said nut sauce genuinely is that good for all guitar applications, add it to Nuts, bridges, trem pivots, it makes a really big difference to tuning stability.

though it ain't cheap.

They also threw in a suede strap and a Mansons mug.

 

[Victek]

Yeah, will do but over the weekend, the tech said nut sauce genuinely is that good for all guitar applications, add it to Nuts, bridges, trem pivots, it makes a really big difference to tuning stability. though it ain't cheap.

Yeah, I've noticed the cost might have to give it a try though.

They also threw in a suede strap and a Mansons mug.

Post a screenie of the mug too lol

 

[Mikegarveyblues]

Can you post a screenshot? I've heard the Tusq nut is a little thinner than stock, and there's a slight gap between the nut and headstock. Is that true? Also I thought the Tusq nuts were self-lubricating; does nut sauce make a difference?

It has a touch less depth and width compared to the stock nut. Graphtech state they're touch wider, deeper and higher than advertised so you can adjust for a perfect fit. I found that on the one I ordered for the SE it was only the height that needed adjusting. It left a (literally) hairs width gap at the back and sides.

It bugged me a bit so I had my tech re-cut and fit one that was designed for another guitar.

It's fine if you don't mind that tiny gap. It was the fact I could feel that slight ridge at the sides that bugged me the most. I think the US nut also leaves a slight gap at the back but looks to be perfect width wise. No need for nut sauce if you use the Tusq XL nuts as they are impregnated with Teflon.

 

[Jon van derlim]

I have Spent loads of time playing the replacement SE C24 and its a keeper, even with heavy trem use tuning stability is spot on.

Well happy:biggrin:

 

[sergiodeblanc]

I have Spent loads of time playing the replacement SE C24 and its a keeper, even with heavy trem use tuning stability is spot on.

Well happy:biggrin:

Bangin'