Sanding Sealer and Grain Fill Question

[NoisyDante]

I’ve got a question about the staining / sealing / grain filling process. For the mahogany back, if it were to remain natural, would it be sanding sealed along with the maple top prior to grain filling? Or would the top only receive the sanding sealer?

Also, if I wanted to stain the mahogany back and neck a a bit darker, being that it’s a more porous wood, would I want to treat it somehow prior to staining to have an even coverage? Such as grain fill first?

New to this process, trying to glean what I can from the factory videos.

 

[bodia]

No clue, but I’m on board for this project!

 

[NoisyDante]

No clue, but I’m on board for this project!

Should be a fun one if I can figure out what I’m doing!

 

[Fram]

Hi ND,

With mahogany, it depends on what you want.

If you want a totally natural coloured wood, you can either use clear grain filler, or add some stain to “Natural” grain filler and mix it in before using, until it matches the wood you are filling, it doesn’t have to match perfectly, close is usually ok.

If you are staining the wood for a uniform colour, then the wood is usually grain filled sanded back then stained (grain filler stains just like wood) then sealer applied or sprayed with coloured lacquer.


For a dog hair finish, the mahogany is coloured first, then grain filled with a contrasting colour, then sealer coat applied.

hope this helps

 

[Fram]

Also I would grain fill the back and neck and seal it before doing anything to the maple top.

 

[NoisyDante]

Th

Also I would grain fill the back and neck and seal it before doing anything to the maple top.

That does answer some questions I had, thank you. I was trying to analyze what I was taking off the guitar and getting down to the original factory coloring, it must have been colored lacquer that was on the back and up the neck and not stain. I think what I’ll do is grain fill with a darker color to deepen the wood tone and leave it at that which should give me some dog hair as well.

In the videos I’ve seen they’ve stained the tops then sealed it, then it went to grain fill. You’d suggest I grain fill before staining then seal everything?

 

[NoisyDante]

I’ve got some maple and mahogany samples that I’ll practice on first so that’ll hopefully give me a little indication of what’s to come.

 

[Fram]

In my experience grain fill is messy as hell and requires some clean up.

I have always done it first so that all the major mess and work is done and I have a pristine maple top ready to go, also if anything gets on the maple top, I know I can gently sand to remove it without ruining the stain job.

 

[NoisyDante]

In my experience grain fill is messy as hell and requires some clean up.

I have always done it first so that all the major mess and work is done and I have a pristine maple top ready to go, also if anything gets on the maple top, I know I can gently sand to remove it without ruining the stain job.

Good tip there. Sounds like that’s what the factory seals the top before it can be messed up, but they don’t think it’s necessary to seal the grain fill areas?

 

[Fram]

I guess in a production line the top stain colour could be anything, so they do that first so they can finish the rest of the body to match ?? Not sure really.

But I like to do the top last, As I know it’s not going to get knocked or dented from being moved around too much. Grain filling is quite hard work and requires the guitar to be moved all over to get to the sides, back, neck etc, if you do the top last you know it’s going to stay dent and scratch free.

 

[NoisyDante]

I guess in a production line the top stain colour could be anything, so they do that first so they can finish the rest of the body to match ?? Not sure really.

But I like to do the top last, As I know it’s not going to get knocked or dented from being moved around too much. Grain filling is quite hard work and requires the guitar to be moved all over to get to the sides, back, neck etc, if you do the top last you know it’s going to stay dent and scratch free.

I guess that’s true, the back either gets stain or it doesn’t but that station comes first. I think I’ll go back and neck filler, sanding seal that part, stain the top, then seal again.

 

[Fram]

I guess that’s true, the back either gets stain or it doesn’t but that station comes first. I think I’ll go back and neck filler, sanding seal seal, stain the top, then seal again.

That’s exactly how I would do it, also if you are going for natural binding then seal the sides of the maple cap at the same time as the back and neck, saves accidents with stain colouring the sides.

 

[NoisyDante]

That’s exactly how I would do it, also if you are going for natural binding then seal the sides of the maple cap at the same time as the back and neck, saves accidents with stain colouring the sides.

Oh yea that’s also a good benefit, less chance of bleed into the binding.

 

[Fram]

Don’t ask me how I know

 

[Alnus Rubra]

Don’t ask me how I know

I know

 

[Fram]

Ha ha, when your ankle deep in used sandpaper and your guitar is a lot smaller than it used to be

You learn those kinds of lessons well, and learn them fast

 

[Alnus Rubra]

I’ve stained one top, a burst! That was fun but scary at the same time.

Heres a test sample. Obviously the finished guitar has a better lacquer finish.

 

[NoisyDante]

I’ve stained one top, a burst! That was fun but scary at the same time.

Heres a test sample. Obviously the finished guitar has a better lacquer finish.

thats pretty similar to what I’m attempting, I’d be very interested to hear how you did yours

 

[Alnus Rubra]

thats pretty similar to what I’m attempting, I’d be very interested to hear how you did yours

1/ Have you stained a guitar top before?

2/ Are you using water or alcohol based stains?

This will help me answer your question.

 

[Fram]

That looks really nice, great job.