Relief, Action, Pup height customized measurement preferences. How do you like it?

[Abe]

Good morning all!

So I’ve had my first PRS for 8+ weeks now. Soon to do my 2nd string change. Been playing it pretty exclusively just about as much as my hands can handle. Some measurements have changed as I tweaked them around to my liking until I became satisfied I found my sweet spot. I first used 16¢ being that a nickel can be 5/64th”, a penny can be 4/64th”, and a dime 3/64th”. I then got ahold of MusicNomad Relief, String Action, & Pickup Height Gauge tools pictured below and double checked my adjustments. All worked out well and I’m liking how everything is on my guitar now. I feel like the playability, feel, level and tonal response of the guitar has improved for me personally but much of it is an individual thing more so than my settings would be right for everyone.

Some may eyeball their tweakings and just go by feel and sound without measurements. But for those of you who may know your measurements having changed them from factory specs, what are your customized #’s on specific guitars? What are your reasons?


Here is what I got going on with my PRS SE HB II.


Relief at 6th fret with first and last fret fretted:

< 0.15mm / < 0.006”

The thinnest feeler gauge I have, 0.006”, displaces the strings slightly, letting me know the amount of relief is less than / < 0.006". But there is bounce and some relief. With the 1st and last fret fretted I can feel and hear the ping from the strings being tapped down to know a hair or two of relief is there. Close to straight and dead level though.


Action at 12th fret:

Low E = 1.5mm / 0.06”

High E = > 1.0mm / > 0.04”


Pickup Heights with last fret fretted:

Neck Pup ~ Low E = 5/64th”

Neck Pup ~ High E = 4/64th”

Bridge Pup ~ Low E = 4/64th”

Bridge Pup ~ High E = 3/64th”


Almost straight but the tiniest bit of relief. Pretty low action. I like to try and play with even consistent and not too aggressive touch, so clean buzzless sound can be had for me at settings that wouldn’t be right for everyone. Then with the pup heights I wanted more so what I’ve been used to on dual humbucker guitars I played in the past with rich meaty neck pup sound and then a bright edgy bridge pickup sound that cuts through, with balance between them from one to the other and a good mix together. That matched up with the hollowbody tone I’m getting and I just love the guitar. I feel like it is now most officially my favorite electric guitar I’ve ever had with nothing lacking or missed about past guitars that I lost.

So do you play on guitars with more or less relief or dead straight? How do you like your action set? Do you most often find pickup heights not optimal for you at default factory specs? Do you utilize the same measurements on all guitars you play or do you have varying setups for different guitars you play in different ways?

Cheers.

 

[Senor Verde]

These are my starting points. Results may vary when done depending on the individual guitar. Been doing it this way for decades and it works well for me.

Neck Relief:
For the longest time, the only thing I didn't start with a measurement was neck relief. A few months ago, I started fiddling with it and measuring. Yesterday I decided to go back to adjusting by sight and feel as I was spending too much time on it. Relief on all my guitars is very straight with minimal bounce.

String Height for PRS and Gibsons:
High E = String should fill the space between 3/64" and 1/16" line of the ruler on the 12th fret.
Low E = Bottom edge of the low E should just barely cover the 1/16" line on the ruler. Maybe just see the line behind the spaces in the string winds.

Pickup Height, Fretted at the last fret:
Both high E strings should cover the 5/64" line on a ruler.
Both low E strings cover the 3/32" line.
E, A and D poles adjusted to the radius of the fretboard. Some have the tops of the screws flush with the cover and some are a half turn up.
G is one turn up from flush, B is flush, E is flush or half turn up. Poles get tweaked from there, as needed.

 

[Bogner]

Years Ago I Bought All The High End Tools From Stew Mac And They Are Very Helpful. When You Can Really Get Down To The Minute Measurements You Quickly Realize How Various Things May Need Tweaking And How Small, Measurable Results Can Make A Big Difference. One Of The Best Tools I Use Is The Digital Nut Slotting Gauge. Level Frets And A Balanced Nut (Depth Wise) Make A Huge Difference. Once That Is Right And Your Relief And String Radius Is Right Then You Can Tackle String Height And Get That To Your Liking. I Don't Have Set In Stone Calculations On Everything Across The Board That Is The Same For Every Guitar. Guitar Type, Tuning, String Gauge, Type Of Music/Style Played On Said Guitar I Have Found Can Slightly Tweak Those Numbers A Bit For Me Personally. Even With All My Tools, I Still Rely On Feel And Sound. Each Guitar Is Unique And Different In Some Small Way And I Try To Honor That And Be Flexible With That. As A Whole, I Like Low Action But Not At The Expense Of Sustain On Bends.

 

[Oscar]

First I check for high frets with a fret rocker. Don’t laugh, I’ve found too many. If something is amiss then most often the low E buzzes between frets 2 to 5 while the rest of the guitar is perfect. But sometimes I find high frets elsewhere. If needed I spot-dress whatever fret needs it. So far I’ve not found low frets (thankfully), those would be a dealbreaker.
Then I adjust the truss rod for almost zero relief. As straight as I can get it.
Then I lower both E strings as far as they’ll go without buzzing or choking. I want a full, round note. Usually I can do down significantly from the factory setup.
Then I lower the inside four strings in such that the fingerboard radius is maintained, using both E’s as endpoints of the arc.
Then I check the intonation.

If the guitar left the factory with dead-level frets then it’s a 15 minute process,

 

[dogrocketp]

I first set the bridge to 10” radius because most of mine were bought used. Then I visually check neck relief. After checking the intonation points (octave, octave harmonics). I listen very closely to the guitar acoustically. Adjustments are made, then the guitar goes in the case for 4 to 6 hours. I NEVER use a gauge from here to the final tweaking. I let my ears tell me what needs to be done going forward. Over the years, I’ve come to believe that the wood doesn’t settle immediately, and needs time to acclimate to adjustments. My luthier may do an adjustment that sounds fine, but the next day the wood has settled a little. Admittedly, I’m OCD about intonation and sustain.