Refretting and warranty issues?

swede71

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I own a 2010 DGT that I absolutely love but there is one thing that needs to be fixed,the frets.Its not the size,I love the jumbo frets but it's the angle of the fretends,the way they are filed.Sloped in a way that makes me slip of the fretboard very easily on the E strings.Does anyone know if this is a warranty issue.Should i contact the dealer and have them send the guitar to prs for refretting or should I just contact a local luthier?Its very important to me because I plan to basically play this guitar exclusively and have my rig based around it.David Grissom and Paul reed smith talks about it in this video.
 
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This sounds like an incompatibility between the instrument design and your playing technique. Maybe you're better suited with a wider neck carve? Personally, the rolled fingerboard edge is one of the guitar's highlights, and naturally, the frets follow that contour. That is, unless you bought that one used and the previous owner did something weird. Otherwise, to me, that's a model feature.

Do you have the same problem on a W/F or W/T carve?
 
As Boogie says, the DGT is built that way. The E strings are closer to the edge of the fretboard than other PRSi. You are not the first person to say that the E string slips off the fretboard, but that is the way DG likes it. At 5:00 in the video above DG talks about it. For him the fret slop angle is steeper to prevent him from slipping off the fretboard, but that is because the string is too close in the first place. He doesn't talk about that because for him it isn't too close.

You basically have 2 options, learn to play with the close E strings, or change to a different guitar.
 
As Boogie says, the DGT is built that way. The E strings are closer to the edge of the fretboard than other PRSi. You are not the first person to say that the E string slips off the fretboard, but that is the way DG likes it. At 5:00 in the video above DG talks about it. For him the fret slop angle is steeper to prevent him from slipping off the fretboard, but that is because the string is too close in the first place. He doesn't talk about that because for him it isn't too close.

You basically have 2 options, learn to play with the close E strings, or change to a different guitar.
I have checked 2015 model.The fretends are different as DG wanted.And just to be clear about one thing here,the E strings are not too close to the edge of the fretboard on a DGT.
Grissom uses his thumb a lot on the low E.

Took you 6 years to notice this?
No,it took me 1 1/2 years(bought it in 2014)to realise it has to be refretted to be my main guitar.
Anyway,will talk to dealer first.I don't want to change guitar or neck carve :).This is THE guitar for me.
 
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I had this problem with my guitars that have the .007-.032 gauges on them.
I was told that most fret ends are cut in a 30 degrees. On Teles, for me, this is a problem, so when I had my guitar refrettted, I had the fret ends cut in at 15 degrees, and this helped the problem out a bit. It leaves slightly more flat fret surface which is usable.

I actually like my guitars to have a string alignment whereon the high E string has slightly more room to the outside edge of the fret board then the low E side. It got to a point where I have become a stickler for this on all of my guitars.
 
Hi, i have the same problem with my dgt. what did you do?
 
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I havent done anything yet.:).I Will just go to my fav luthier here in Stockholm and have it refretted with the same fretsize and more real estate at the fretends.
 
Grissom uses his thumb a lot on the low E.

So reading this zombie thread, I am reminded of one of my weaknesses, due to hand size: "fretting" with my thumb. I simply can't get my thumb around enough. Sigh, I have so much desire to play certain styles and learn from certain artists like John Mayer, but these tiny hands just make it frustrating. So I do other stuff that I am physically capable of instead. But the simple fact that I am not physically capable of certain chords & whatnot gets annoying...

Anyway, this other old post got my attention:

I had this problem with my guitars that have the .007-.032 gauges on them.

Yikes! 007s?! I knew that 008s were used by a few folks, but I cannot imagine what 007s would be like! (Well, gin-vodka martinis aside...) I play 10s and 11s on electric, and find 009s to be way too squishable - any strings I press on when I chord go sharp. 007s would be my bane!
 
Yikes! 007s?! I knew that 008s were used by a few folks, but I cannot imagine what 007s would be like! (Well, gin-vodka martinis aside...) I play 10s and 11s on electric, and find 009s to be way too squishable - any strings I press on when I chord go sharp. 007s would be my bane!

If you wanna hear what 7s sound like, pop on some ZZ Top. The good Reverend Billy G runs 7s.
 
If you wanna hear what 7s sound like, pop on some ZZ Top. The good Reverend Billy G runs 7s.
Oh wow, I thought he played 8s, for some reason.

I play acoustics at least half the time, including banjos and mandolins, which are strung with relatively "heavier" medium-light or medium type strings: 12s on my acoustics, whatever is typical for a mando (medium 11-40 I think), and my Irish-tenor banjo I replaced the stock low G string with something thicker because I couldn't stand the floppy tension (swapped the 40 for a 46, IIRC). My hand strength is just automatically wired for pressing a little too hard for lighter gauge strings on electric.
 
The technique with high and low E strings is always bend toward the center of the fretboard, not toward the edges. If you bend out toward the edges, it doesn’t really matter how wide the fretboard or the frets are, you’re still going to slip off the fret from time to time.

If you make a conscious effort to do that, it becomes second nature very quickly.
 
The technique with high and low E strings is always bend toward the center of the fretboard, not toward the edges. If you bend out toward the edges, it doesn’t really matter how wide the fretboard or the frets are, you’re still going to slip off the fret from time to time.

If you make a conscious effort to do that, it becomes second nature very quickly.

Exactly this....:cool:
 
If you bend out toward the edges, it doesn’t really matter how wide the fretboard or the frets are, you’re still going to slip off the fret from time to time.
You just can’t blame a guitar for not performing well under those conditions. The DGT is one of the easiest, most comfortable guitars I’ve ever played and energizes me to attempt things I’ve not tried with other guitars. Simply inspiring. It’s not in my vocabulary to say anything negative about this model, and tough to hear anyone else not share my enthusiasm.
 
You just can’t blame a guitar for not performing well under those conditions. The DGT is one of the easiest, most comfortable guitars I’ve ever played and energizes me to attempt things I’ve not tried with other guitars. Simply inspiring. It’s not in my vocabulary to say anything negative about this model, and tough to hear anyone else not share my enthusiasm.

I have to agree. DGTs are wonderful guitars. I’ve loved every single one I’ve been lucky enough to get my hands on.
 
Wow 7’s! Praise be!!
7s aren’t bad but require a very light touch on a 25” scale. 8s tend to work better for me. Downside is that the low strings move too much when trying to play fast palm-muted rhythms,

8-46 sets give me the best of both worlds. However, I get along just fine with 11s on my DGT and 10s on my Sig Ltd. Both of those have larger frets which make bending easier. On my Bernie with low frets, I use 8-46 sets and they work great. That being said, when I refret the Bernie, it will get Jumbos and I will set it up for 11s.
 
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