Questions about replacement nut from PRS Store.

Yzerman

New Member
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Feb 5, 2016
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35
Hi,

Does anyone know the gauge of string the slots are pre-cut too?

Also, do you think the slots are deep enough that you could just remove material from the bottom of the nut to adjust height?




Thanks
 
Hi,

Does anyone know the gauge of string the slots are pre-cut too?

Also, do you think the slots are deep enough that you could just remove material from the bottom of the nut to adjust height?

Thanks

Should be cut for 10's. As for your second question, yes. If you find them too high you should be able to sand from the bottom. The couple that I have put on have not needed it. Of course, YMMV.
 
I had to sand to get my replacement nut situated properly on my 2006 Spruce HB, both for height and "angle".

Has PRS altered the headstock angle over the years that newer models can have the nut just slap right on, no sanding?
 
I had to sand to get my replacement nut situated properly on my 2006 Spruce HB, both for height and "angle".

Has PRS altered the headstock angle over the years that newer models can have the nut just slap right on, no sanding?

Possible. I saw John Mann post something about some slight variations in neck angle that were having an impact on his MannMade 2300 in some instances. Could be along those lines.
 
the nut is really the only thing I tell people to have a good luthier install. The difference can be huge. I think do-it-yourself ears can handle almost anything else.A bad nut means it won`t play in tune or stay in tune.
 
I wonder, will the current pattern thin nut fit my EG-3? I'm pretty sure it's got the original nut, think it's made of delrin or something similar.
 
Pattern (Wide/Fat) and Pattern Thin (Wide/Thin) = same nut
Pattern Regular = (Regular)

Certainly the best bang for the buck...
Thanks, John! By the way, I must say the trem you designed for PRS is by FAR the best I've ever used. Great action and stability, very nice frequency bloom on open chords, built like a tank, yet completely smooth and burr-free under the palm. And it still looks like a million bucks 26 years later.
 
I had to sand to get my replacement nut situated properly on my 2006 Spruce HB, both for height and "angle".

This is very old thread, but posting here in case anyone else searches. I'm in process of replacing a lowcut nut on Starla SE 2021. I used the replacement core nut, not the SE nut, and found I had to also file the "angle" of the base of the nut to fit flushly. I cleaned out the glue underneath the old nut and scraped/sanded as best as I could to square it up to what was original but found the replacement needed a bit of angling of the base to tilt toward the fretboard to fit flush. Maybe just idiosynchracies of the guitar I got, but wanted to mention in case anyone searches wondering if it is unusual. I was surprised that step was needed.
 
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