Pulling Bridge Pins on Angelus

[Dirty_Boogie]

Hey Gang,

On my I recently purchased Angelus, I'm having a really hard time extracting the bridge pins, without mangling the pins (too late!), and trying real hard to not damage the bridge. The reason for the difficulty is that the holes for the strings/pins are recessed, which make getting a pin puller under or around the head of the pins almost impossible as they are recessed into the bridge. Or maybe the heads on the bridge pins are larger than normal. I’ve tried 3 different style pin pullers, and none of them work –

I just emailed PRS customer support asking what specific pin puller they recommend, but have any of you Angelus/Tonare owners run into this issue?

 

[veinbuster]

I loosen a couple of string enough that I can reach inside and push them out. They can be difficult to pull out from the top, but are quite easy to push from inside.

 

[CandidPicker]

I loosen a couple of string enough that I can reach inside and push them out. They can be difficult to pull out from the top, but are quite easy to push from inside.

This. When changing strings, loosen them so you can reach into the acoustic cavity. Use your finger to push the bridge pins up and out of the bridge. The extraction works better this way.

 

[Dirty_Boogie]

This. When changing strings, loosen them so you can reach into the acoustic cavity. Use your finger to push the bridge pins up and out of the bridge. The extraction works better this way.

The only thing I don’t like about this method is that you have to loosen/remove all strings at once. And, I have big hands, so this is a bit of a pain. But it works - and is what PRS customer service suggested - so that’s what I’ll do.

 

[veinbuster]

The only thing I don’t like about this method is that you have to loosen/remove all strings at once. And, I have big hands, so this is a bit of a pain. But it works - and is what PRS customer service suggested - so that’s what I’ll do.

I don’t have to remove all the strings at once to reach the point of a pin with my fingers. Last string change (a week or two ago), I took the outer strings off and loosened the next string enough to get the outer pins out. The bridge is pretty close to the sound hole so it wasn’t necessary to put my whole hand into the guitar.

 

[Wakester]

I've only done 1 string change so far. (They just don't get that much use) and I had no trouble pulling pins with my mini pitchfork pin puller thing-a-ma-jig-tool-thing.

 

[gush]

I wondered about this too. My used Angelus came with brass pins that would fall out!

I ordered ebony pins and noticed they push into the hole a lot farther than I thought they should.

Now I know

 

[Uncle Bob]

Leave the crappy plastic puller things alone, instead use a small pair of wire cutters. Obviously don’t squeeze them, just use them the same way as the puller tool and lever up the pins using the pointy bits of the open jaws.

I always protect the bridge with a couple of layers of painters tape first, behind the pins in the area the cutters might touch the wood.

 

[veinbuster]

Seriously, I believe choosing a tool to do the least damage when pulling the pins is not the right decision. Just push them out from the inside and guarantee you do no damage.

 

[CandidPicker]

I loosen a couple of string enough that I can reach inside and push them out. They can be difficult to pull out from the top, but are quite easy to push from inside.

This. When changing strings, loosen them so you can reach into the acoustic cavity. Use your finger to push the bridge pins up and out of the bridge. The extraction works better this way.

Leave the crappy plastic puller things alone, instead use a small pair of wire cutters. Obviously don’t squeeze them, just use them the same way as the puller tool and lever up the pins using the pointy bits of the open jaws.

I always protect the bridge with a couple of layers of painters tape first, behind the pins in the area the cutters might touch the wood.

With due respect, I've tried both pin pullers and wire cutters. The wire cutters may gouge or chew up the pins. @veinbuster is correct. No damage occurs when you use your finger to push the bridge pin out from the inside of the acoustic body. Only thing you need do anyway after changing strings is wash those hands so no oil stays on your hands which could touch your face (and result in potential infection). Trust your instincts.

Seriously, I believe choosing a tool to do the least damage when pulling the pins is not the right decision. Just push them out from the inside and guarantee you do no damage.

 

[Boogie]

I loosen a couple of string enough that I can reach inside and push them out. They can be difficult to pull out from the top, but are quite easy to push from inside.

That is a solid recommendation.

 

[László]

I loosen a couple of string enough that I can reach inside and push them out. They can be difficult to pull out from the top, but are quite easy to push from inside.

I do that, too.

 

[László]

The only thing I don’t like about this method is that you have to loosen/remove all strings at once. And, I have big hands, so this is a bit of a pain. But it works - and is what PRS customer service suggested - so that’s what I’ll do.

I don't remove them all at once. I loosen a couple, and can easily slide my hand in to push the pins up as I replace strings. My hands aren't small.

 

[Dirty_Boogie]

I've now bought one of every possible pin pulling device... and none of them work on the Angelus. So hands it is!

 

[Kree]

I 100% agree, they’re almost impossible to pull out. The heads are too round and small. pullers are useless

 

[Greywolf]

I agree with the internal push . Just curious , is this an SE? My Steve Fischer Angelus and Tonare don't have that recess around the pin when seated.

 

[CandidPicker]

I agree with the internal push . Just curious , is this an SE? My Steve Fischer Angelus and Tonare don't have that recess around the pin when seated.

It's likely that the pin problem is an SE-related one. Something you can find a workaround with regards an imported guitar; better quality would most likely not need so much effort.

Just curious, is the Tonare an SE, or production/PS? I think I recall some years ago before Paul made the division for SE guitars, some USA-made production models came from Stevensville. The production model acoustics didn't sell well. Today, they're rare as hen's teeth.

The Fischer and Tonare must have been during the time before the SE line was developed.

 

[Greywolf]

The Steve Fischer's are PS , the other Angelus is a Core , which they discontinued.