PRS Wiring Mods Resource Thread

[theDeepender]

Sorry if already answered and I missed it.

I replaced my 58/15 LTs from my 594 with historic style pickups (single wire; hot with braided ground). I’m going to install them with the 50’s style wiring scheme. I’m content that I will be losing coil split, and just want to know if I use the coil split pot as a typical non-splitting pot, will there be any issue? I don’t want to modify the pot hole, so that’s why I’d like to reuse the PRS push/pull pots for tone.

First, the pot hole would be the same with push/pull or non push/pull. No modification would be required.
Secondly, the switch, although piggybacking on the pot, is not part of the electrical circuit of the pot, and can be used or not used as wished without affecting the workings of the pot.

 

[Spesrf25]

I was bummed to find out the tone hole and shaft diameter is smaller than the volume pot diameter. The volume is about 1 cm (3/8 in), while the tone is approx 8 mm (1/4ish in). At least on mine.

I’m very happy I can use the pot with my new pickups, though.

Thanks again!

 

[theDeepender]

I was bummed to find out the tone hole and shaft diameter is smaller than the volume pot diameter. The volume is about 1 cm (3/8 in), while the tone is approx 8 mm (1/4ish in). At least on mine.

I’m very happy I can use the pot with my new pickups, though.

Thanks again!

Several of us have run into needing to open the pot holes slightly when putting American pots into foreign made instruments, due to the diameter difference. It’s usually not that big of a deal, but you have to be careful.

 

[Dumb Dumb]

There is no harm but the 3rd row on a switch will let you to isolate one coil and add the small value capacitor in a split mod. I own the 24-08 (35th Anniversary) and I absolutely adore the way the split is archived. With DPDT toggles as it is you will only have the ordinary, old school split. If you really want I can figure out the way to do the conversion but a 3PDT cost less than 5 quid and the benefit is worth it.

Hello Simon, I'm in the same boat, though 2018ish Special Semi Hollow, has 58/15 MT's that have no life, the heavy gain/distortion guys like them, but you cant EQ in what doesn't exist in the signal and I play pretty clean. Now that they are selling the TCI LT's Ive got a set here and want to put them in, wondering if I can just match the wire colors? When I look at the Toggles in my guitar 6 pin they are butted right up agains each other, I don't think the 9 pin will fit without drilling... I thinking that because they are not tapped like the MT's that I'll end up with that volume drop.

looking at the PRS store (I'm not allow to post links, too dumb) the 6 lug DPDT pair are shown with space between them that does not exist in my guitar. the bare metal jumpers have been bent so they can be installed really close together. Also the drop in 9 lug 3pdt pair with caps shown in the store are butted right next to each other.

Ive got this feeling I won't be able to fit 9 lug 3pdt pair with caps into my guitar because the holes the switches use to pass through the body are too close together.

Buy some 9 lug 3pdt and caps to build the same thing but with the switches rotated 90 degrees to confuse the hell out of me and hope they fit that way? Or try to figure out how to drop in these Fralin Unbuckers sitting on my desk here instead?

I must say I'm a bit overwhelmed! Also Im'm not too bright, probably why I seek bright tone?

 

[theDeepender]

Hello Simon, I'm in the same boat, though 2018ish Special Semi Hollow, has 58/15 MT's that have no life, the heavy gain/distortion guys like them, but you cant EQ in what doesn't exist in the signal and I play pretty clean. Now that they are selling the TCI LT's Ive got a set here and want to put them in, wondering if I can just match the wire colors? When I look at the Toggles in my guitar 6 pin they are butted right up agains each other, I don't think the 9 pin will fit without drilling... I thinking that because they are not tapped like the MT's that I'll end up with that volume drop.

looking at the PRS store (I'm not allow to post links, too dumb) the 6 lug DPDT pair are shown with space between them that does not exist in my guitar. the bare metal jumpers have been bent so they can be installed really close together. Also the drop in 9 lug 3pdt pair with caps shown in the store are butted right next to each other.

Ive got this feeling I won't be able to fit 9 lug 3pdt pair with caps into my guitar because the holes the switches use to pass through the body are too close together.

Buy some 9 lug 3pdt and caps to build the same thing but with the switches rotated 90 degrees to confuse the hell out of me and hope they fit that way? Or try to figure out how to drop in these Fralin Unbuckers sitting on my desk here instead?

I must say I'm a bit overwhelmed! Also Im'm not too bright, probably why I seek bright tone?

Ok, so that’s why I like a bright tone…

 

[Simon Says]

Hello Simon, I'm in the same boat, though 2018ish Special Semi Hollow, has 58/15 MT's that have no life, the heavy gain/distortion guys like them, but you cant EQ in what doesn't exist in the signal and I play pretty clean. Now that they are selling the TCI LT's Ive got a set here and want to put them in, wondering if I can just match the wire colors? When I look at the Toggles in my guitar 6 pin they are butted right up agains each other, I don't think the 9 pin will fit without drilling... I thinking that because they are not tapped like the MT's that I'll end up with that volume drop.

looking at the PRS store (I'm not allow to post links, too dumb) the 6 lug DPDT pair are shown with space between them that does not exist in my guitar. the bare metal jumpers have been bent so they can be installed really close together. Also the drop in 9 lug 3pdt pair with caps shown in the store are butted right next to each other.

Ive got this feeling I won't be able to fit 9 lug 3pdt pair with caps into my guitar because the holes the switches use to pass through the body are too close together.

Buy some 9 lug 3pdt and caps to build the same thing but with the switches rotated 90 degrees to confuse the hell out of me and hope they fit that way? Or try to figure out how to drop in these Fralin Unbuckers sitting on my desk here instead?

I must say I'm a bit overwhelmed! Also Im'm not too bright, probably why I seek bright tone?

One of the other SE user members managed just fine by flipping the 3PDT switches 90°

 

[Boze-63]

Would there be info on which brand of push/pull switches are used and any specific model..? ex: DGT?

I know there are a few to choose: CTS, ATS, Dimarzios, etc...
I was going to attempt this on just my master tone as I'm about to install a new set of pups. But in thinking of the options and potential problem when playing, I now think 2 P/P switches, on the volume knobs for each pup on my Bernie...

So in hearing the results from the DGT's P/P switch for coil-splits, wondering if anyone has ever attempted 2 P/P switches.
thanks in advance.

 

[theDeepender]

Would there be info on which brand of push/pull switches are used and any specific model..? ex: DGT?

I know there are a few to choose: CTS, ATS, Dimarzios, etc...
I was going to attempt this on just my master tone as I'm about to install a new set of pups. But in thinking of the options and potential problem when playing, I now think 2 P/P switches, on the volume knobs for each pup on my Bernie...

So in hearing the results from the DGT's P/P switch for coil-splits, wondering if anyone has ever attempted 2 P/P switches.
thanks in advance.

I did on my SE Custom 24. I used these:

https://flic.kr/p/2o9hPCa

And this diagram;

https://flic.kr/p/2o8uBD3

I added a treble bleed and I think I used a different cap after some experimentation.
Came out real nice.

 

[garrett]

Would there be info on which brand of push/pull switches are used and any specific model..? ex: DGT?

I know there are a few to choose: CTS, ATS, Dimarzios, etc...
I was going to attempt this on just my master tone as I'm about to install a new set of pups. But in thinking of the options and potential problem when playing, I now think 2 P/P switches, on the volume knobs for each pup on my Bernie...

So in hearing the results from the DGT's P/P switch for coil-splits, wondering if anyone has ever attempted 2 P/P switches.
thanks in advance.

Two push/pulls is great! Easy to wire.

If your using them as volume controls, the only choice IMO are the full sized CTS ones.

 

[theDeepender]

Two push/pulls is great! Easy to wire.

If your using them as volume controls, the only choice IMO are the full sized CTS ones.

The only place I ever regretted using full size CTS pots was on a Telecaster mod. There’s just no room in that tiny cavity.

 

[Simon Says]

The 24-08 SE layout for 59/09 pickups.

It was requested in the other thread, and I'm adding it here so it can be easily referred to.

The Core 24-08 (or the 35th Anniversary) coil switching is archived with a 3-row switch. It isolates unused coil, and a small value capacitor is added when the given pickup is in split mode.

With 59/09 pickups, we have two issues - 1st is the number of wires coming from the pickup. TCI 85/15 (or 58/15) have five wires, 2 of each for either coil and one chassis ground. The 59/09 only has three wires. The series connection is hooked to one wire running from the pickup. The second issue is the type of mini switches. SE model uses 2PDT mini toggles (2-section switch). Luckily none of these two issues is a massive problem.

The main difference between Core switching and the adopted layout I made is that the unused coil won't be isolated - it will be shut to the ground instead. It will not make a significant tonal change. The 59/09 pickups have always been split that way, and they are highly regarded in full HB mode and split mode.

Looking at my layout, you will see that small-value capacitors and resistors can be used. It's up to the guitar owner what you will go for; they are wired the same way but should NOT be wired together.

Using the resistors, you will archive a partial split used in the McCarty model. There's no difference other than the split can be switched on and off independently to either neck or bridge pickups.

If you go with a capacitor, you will go into a similar approach as Core 24-08. When in split small value capacitor is added to shut a portion of highs to the ground, giving a more polished, less shrill tonality.

Personally - I prefer the resistor split with 59/09

The other mod suggested is to remove the 820k resistor going from the Volume pot lug to the ground (you can clip it off on one side). I needed clarification on why it was used. It's parallel to the outside lugs of a potentiometer how it's wired, decreasing the total resistance of the volume pot from 500k to around 310k. My best bet; PRS tried to reach a happy medium where 500k is best for HB and 250k for single coils. The resistor forces the pot to be somewhere in the middle with the resistance. It's not needed; whatever split configuration you will use, the 59/09 sound great with partial split and the cap mode should take care of spiky splits too.

I would replace the pots, too, but I don't see this as necessary.

 

[Boze-63]

The only place I ever regretted using full size CTS pots was on a Telecaster mod. There’s just no room in that tiny cavity.

Deepender, thanks for the info.....
On the current ATS pots, I had treble-cut mod added on both volumes to keep the highs there when turned down....So now with this option, I'll see about adding the 1.2 & 2.2 resistors in the P/P switches as well. also, those would be 500k pots..? Correct?

 

[Boze-63]

The 24-08 SE layout for 59/09 pickups.

It was requested in the other thread, and I'm adding it here so it can be easily referred to.

The Core 24-08 (or the 35th Anniversary) coil switching is archived with a 3-row switch. It isolates unused coil, and a small value capacitor is added when the given pickup is in split mode.

With 59/09 pickups, we have two issues - 1st is the number of wires coming from the pickup. TCI 85/15 (or 58/15) have five wires, 2 of each for either coil and one chassis ground. The 59/09 only has three wires. The series connection is hooked to one wire running from the pickup. The second issue is the type of mini switches. SE model uses 2PDT mini toggles (2-section switch). Luckily none of these two issues is a massive problem.

The main difference between Core switching and the adopted layout I made is that the unused coil won't be isolated - it will be shut to the ground instead. It will not make a significant tonal change. The 59/09 pickups have always been split that way, and they are highly regarded in full HB mode and split mode.

Looking at my layout, you will see that small-value capacitors and resistors can be used. It's up to the guitar owner what you will go for; they are wired the same way but should NOT be wired together.

Using the resistors, you will archive a partial split used in the McCarty model. There's no difference other than the split can be switched on and off independently to either neck or bridge pickups.

If you go with a capacitor, you will go into a similar approach as Core 24-08. When in split small value capacitor is added to shut a portion of highs to the ground, giving a more polished, less shrill tonality.

Personally - I prefer the resistor split with 59/09

The other mod suggested is to remove the 820k resistor going from the Volume pot lug to the ground (you can clip it off on one side). I needed clarification on why it was used. It's parallel to the outside lugs of a potentiometer how it's wired, decreasing the total resistance of the volume pot from 500k to around 310k. My best bet; PRS tried to reach a happy medium where 500k is best for HB and 250k for single coils. The resistor forces the pot to be somewhere in the middle with the resistance. It's not needed; whatever split configuration you will use, the 59/09 sound great with partial split and the cap mode should take care of spiky splits too.

I would replace the pots, too, but I don't see this as necessary.

Simon, Thanks for the details...awesome.
I'm thinking exact along those lines, with the 2.2 & 1.2 resistors on the P/P switches, the isolated coil will still have some input when going to split-mode keeping the tone a little beefed and helping with the "hum".

The replacement pups I have are 4 conductor (not 5) so I could be alright. however, I was planning on going with 500k pots as I never heard of or thought of using anything higher like 850k pots....?? wow Im unsure of that.

 

[Boze-63]

Deepender, thanks for the info.....
On the current ATS pots, I had treble-cut mod added on both volumes to keep the highs there when turned down....So now with this option, I'll see about adding the 1.2 & 2.2 resistors in the P/P switches as well. also, those would be 500k pots..? Correct?

Also, not a lot of room on the Bernie cavity either......just enough for the 3 pots and it appears that the CTS take a lot of real-estate in order to add "2" of them.

 

[theDeepender]

Deepender, thanks for the info.....
On the current ATS pots, I had treble-cut mod added on both volumes to keep the highs there when turned down....So now with this option, I'll see about adding the 1.2 & 2.2 resistors in the P/P switches as well. also, those would be 500k pots..? Correct?

I used 500k, but it’s a matter of choice. The rule of thumb, as I’ve heard it, is 500k for humbuckers and 250k for single coil. But what about when you use coil splitters? I’ve read where some have split the difference with 300k, some swear by 250k for more warmth, some swear by 500k for more bite. I’ve even read that some go as high as 1000k for even more bite. It’s up to personal preference.

 

[Simon Says]

I nowhere said the pots are 850k. I noted the SE model has a 500k potentiometer with an 820k parrel resistor for a total of 310k potentiometer resistance.

 

[Spesrf25]

I just finished wiring and the volume pots and switching work great, but I’m getting nothing from the tone when I turn the knobs. Thoughts?

- 594 single cut
- 50s wiring scheme
- Gibson Historic Pots for volume
- PRS push pull pots for tone
- Ground continuity works everywhere when tested with a multi meter

Update: I tested quite a bit, and I believe I ruined a tone pot with the way I grounded the middle lug (soldered too close to the wiper). This is my best guess based on testing, although I couldn't see any damage when I opened it. Try try again.

 

[Dumb Dumb]

Hello Again, Ive got a 2018-2019 Special Semi Hollow, has the 58/15 MT (Muddy Tone / Middle Tap) and a Narrow Field in the middle. has DPDT Mini Toggles with 6 lugs like the older Pauls Guitar to split. Ive got one of these 58/15 LT sets that PRS started slanging a month ago sitting here and a set of Fralin Unbuckers. I want to get the 58/15 Muddy Tones out and put in one of these other sets.

Frailins have a hotter side to alleviate volume drop in split, and four wires plus ground, they also provide documentation and wire their pickups constantly the same way with the same color code. Can I use these wired to the existing DPDT switches with out rewiring the blade switch? anybody know how?

The 58/15 LTs need 9 lug mini toggles to allow for resistors which will not fit without rotating them 90 degrees, and might not fit even doing that, or drilling uggg. plus ill end up with an unergonomic switching direction and confusing configuration. I could save these and put them is something else down the road and sell the MTs which some people really love.

Does anybody know where to put my Unbucker leads on the existing DPDT, if there will be a phase or polarity issues or anything because of the monkey business going on with the Mts and the switching with the Narrow Field in 2 and 4. Ive been looking here for three days to find accurate Wire Codes for what I've got, but there is no consistency in the results, literally all over the place, probably because the designs are constantly changing or they just use what ever wire is on the bench that day. No doc available on the PRS site for my Guitar but looks closest to the Pauls Guitar pre current... also am not allowed to post links.

There is a fundamental understanding missing in me of how these circuits work that is hard to get past with the inconstancy in terminology in the humbucker business, the inconstancy on the PRS side makes it hard to compare models or the same models from different years, the LTs for example have different colored leads that any I've found described here. one BLK BLK GRN RED GND one BLK WH RED GRN GND.

any help would be great. Fralin does provide doc of their wire code and a description of the design, I can identify the hotter side with my meter.
and will probably lean that way even after dropping 500 bones on the LTs.

 

[Simon Says]

Hello Again, Ive got a 2018-2019 Special Semi Hollow, has the 58/15 MT (Muddy Tone / Middle Tap) and a Narrow Field in the middle. has DPDT Mini Toggles with 6 lugs like the older Pauls Guitar to split. Ive got one of these 58/15 LT sets that PRS started slanging a month ago sitting here and a set of Fralin Unbuckers. I want to get the 58/15 Muddy Tones out and put in one of these other sets.

Frailins have a hotter side to alleviate volume drop in split, and four wires plus ground, they also provide documentation and wire their pickups constantly the same way with the same color code. Can I use these wired to the existing DPDT switches with out rewiring the blade switch? anybody know how?

The 58/15 LTs need 9 lug mini toggles to allow for resistors which will not fit without rotating them 90 degrees, and might not fit even doing that, or drilling uggg. plus ill end up with an unergonomic switching direction and confusing configuration. I could save these and put them is something else down the road and sell the MTs which some people really love.

Does anybody know where to put my Unbucker leads on the existing DPDT, if there will be a phase or polarity issues or anything because of the monkey business going on with the Mts and the switching with the Narrow Field in 2 and 4. Ive been looking here for three days to find accurate Wire Codes for what I've got, but there is no consistency in the results, literally all over the place, probably because the designs are constantly changing or they just use what ever wire is on the bench that day. No doc available on the PRS site for my Guitar but looks closest to the Pauls Guitar pre current... also am not allowed to post links.

There is a fundamental understanding missing in me of how these circuits work that is hard to get past with the inconstancy in terminology in the humbucker business, the inconstancy on the PRS side makes it hard to compare models or the same models from different years, the LTs for example have different colored leads that any I've found described here. one BLK BLK GRN RED GND one BLK WH RED GRN GND.

any help would be great. Fralin does provide doc of their wire code and a description of the design, I can identify the hotter side with my meter.
and will probably lean that way even after dropping 500 bones on the LTs.

Will that help?

I did some digging, probing, pushing, pulling and palpating and here's the answer to the five-wire 85/15TCI pickup colour codes. The request for wiring info comes up fairly frequently here on PRS forum, so I hope it will be off use to some.

85/15 TCI Bridge:
- GREEN Screw/South coil Start
- RED Screw/South coil Finish
- WHITE Slug/North coil Start
- BLACK Slug/North coil Finish
- SILVER BARE or ORANGE wire - Chassis Ground / pickup shield

85/15 TCI Neck:
- RED Screw/South coil Start
- GREEN Screw/South coil Finish
- BLACK Slug/North coil Start
- WHITE Slug/North coil Finish
- SILVER BARE or ORANGE wire - Chassis Ground / pickup shield

From here, creating the wiring of your choice, should be a breeze

Regarding the polarity, you probably should ask Fralin what polarity his pickups are

 

[Simon Says]

One more from me.

Similarly to my last one - this is also a 24-08 SE layout.

A few weeks ago, I helped a member of this forum to install 85/15TCI pickups in his SE 24-08. Unfortunately, we did it the hard way with the new 3PDT mini-toggles (very hard to fit in due to limited spacing between them). The layout below is the easy way to do it. Like with my layout above, I advise clipping off or removing the 820k resistor from the Volume potentiometer.

This layout will let you keep DPDT mini toggle switches (two-section type). The only difference lies in how the unused coil is isolated. In a core model, the unused coil in split mode is wholly removed from the circuit. In my layout, the unused coil is shorted to the ground. All functionality is the same, tonally should be no difference.