PRS Trem question.

davesultra

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More of a lurker than a poster, but I have a question. I recently picked up a pretty clean ‘94 CE22 and not having a great wealth of knowledge regarding the trem, I’m curious. When properly adjusted should the trem sit even with the guitar body, or should it be tilted a bit forward or back? While I have owned quite a few PRS guitars over the years, they’ve pretty much all been wrapover models. Anyway, if I missed something I apologize. Any insight will be greatly appreciated!
 
There should be 6 screws holding the trem in place to the body -



You will see from the image, that each screw has a small lip that the knife-edge of the trem sits in. Not wishing to state the obvious, but do not adjust the height of these trem screws, whilst the strings are at playing tension. You will potentially shear them, leaving an awkward repair.


This may be of help as well. If you don’t want to watch all of it, fast forward to about 8:40.
 
parallel is best, maybe a SLIGHT TILT to give you more dive. for me always parallel but I do bend the bar with a vice to raise the angle of the tip.
 
When properly adjusted should the trem sit even with the guitar body, or should it be tilted a bit forward or back?

As others have said, the standard set-up for a CE22 trem is for it to be parallel to the body and to be floating.

However, that is NOT the only way these bridges can be set-up - user preference. you can, for example, set it up decked so it only dives or set-up with a slight tilt. It can be set up so that it doesn't move - acts more like a fixed bridge. I believe the guitar comes with 4 springs BUT you don't have to use all 4 if that's too much for your own preference. Its better to come with 4 springs and then you remove a spring or 2 for your preferred feel than come with 3 and you prefer 4.

Like Action can be personal - some like a very low action where as others may prefer a bit higher or like String Gauge where PRS supplied them with 9's or 10's, you may prefer a thicker/thinner gauge - thicker gauge may require some filing of the nut - but the point is a guitar is 'Properly' set-up when it fits the players preference which may differ from the stock set-up.
 
When I load 9s or 10s, I only use 3 springs. With 11s I go with 4 springs out of necessity.
 
When I load 9s or 10s, I only use 3 springs. With 11s I go with 4 springs out of necessity.

I find that tuned to Eb with 10s and 4 springs I have to adjust claw way out to the point that if I pull up on trem even a little then the springs have zero tension and you feel the harshness of the springs going tight again.

BTW, I've always wanted to ask if those thick brass claws make any difference?
 
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Appreciate all the help. I like it parallel with the body, as I don't go crazy with the trem, just a bit of wiggle every now and again. Not into all the dive bombing stuff (well at least not since the early '90s). o_O
 
...I like it parallel with the body...
Just wanted to add...if you don’t keep the bridge parallel with the body you have to reintonate. Intonation is set at the factory with the bridge parallel, so if you like it differently, the saddle locations will also be different, rendering the intonation out. I’m one that can hear that sort of thing instantly and it drives me insane. Thought I’d mention it. :D
 
One very important point - even with the strings slack, do not adjust the six mounting screws!!

As stated upthread, each has a pivot point just below the head which mates to a knife edge in the bridge baseplate. All six must stay perfectly aligned with each other or you risk messing up the trem action, damaging the knife edges or even having screws break at that weak point.
 
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