PRS SE wraparound bridge modded with washer to prevent forward tilt.

ibis

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Dec 22, 2013
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Hi there,

I am a very happy owner of a PRS SE Bernie Marsden, but wanted to do something to prevent the wraparound bridge leaning forward in its studs. It does this because the bridge is a little thinner than the gap it locates into and string tension pulls it forward. The loose fit also means that it may fall out of the posts during string changes.

Reading the PRS forums, many users are resorting to locking bridge posts to resolve the issue of bridge tilt, the TonePros set being a popular option (although they have fit issues). I have come up with a much cheaper solution.

I took two of the very thin chromed steel washers that come with volume and tone control pots (I have a drawer full of replaced pots and their fittings; if you don't have any, I bet your nearest guitar repair shop will have lots), and cut once through each washer. The technique is to use wire cutters or pliers to 'score' the ring, then wiggle it either side of the weak point until it breaks. Then pull the two cut edges apart until you have a helical spring. The gap in the washer, that has been pulled open, will just about fit around the bridge post with some persuasion. Then its a matter of aligning the cut to the front of the posts (nearest the pickups) and sliding the bridge back into its slots. Its a nice tight fit and the opened washer acts as a spring washer as the bridge slides in, keeping it held in the posts for future string changes. There is very little, if any, bridge lean once the split washer has been installed.

I can't say if sustain is improved or if 'sitar like buzzing' is banished as I can't say I had noticed any problems with the bridge in the first place. I simply wanted to engineer a solution to the slant and prevent the bridge being loose during string changes.

I hope this helps anyone looking for a cheap solution, or perhaps someone like me who really likes the design, feel and intonation of the PRS SE wraparound bridge but just wants to slightly improve its fit.

Regards,

ibis



Here are some very amateurish pics of the process:

The washers
2013-12-25124043.jpg



Scored with cutters:
2013-12-25124136.jpg



One wiggled and split:

2013-12-25124227.jpg



Persuaded to wrap around bridge post:

2013-12-25124834.jpg


Posts back in guitar:

2013-12-25125033.jpg



Bridge reinserted, noting cut in ring towards front of bridge:

2013-12-25125256.jpg



Side view:

2013-12-25125557.jpg
 
Interesting idea. Does it have any effect on the guitar's tone, pro or con?

The reason I ask is that obviously it'd be fairly simple for PRS to make the posts fit the bridge tightly or vice-versa. I'm wondering if Paul might have a reason it's designed that way, with a little play.
 
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Everything is positive as far as I can tell. As far as Paul's design goes, I'm not going to speculate, but I do have an ernest question. What does the US version wraparound bridge fit like in its posts? Apart from the new SE Bernie, only have a 1990 US PRS trem-fitted guitar in my possession. I'll sneak a peak at one the next time I'm in my local PRS dealer. Until then, can someone post a side-on pic?

People do speak favourably of locking posts, and their ability to stop bridge-tilt, but as to whether there is a sonic improvement, I don't know.
 
I have a Tremonti SE that leaned and had a tinny buzzing like you described, after putting in a USA bridge on it it stopped. Still had the SE studs with it. I never thought to look at the fit differences.......I will though and see what if any there are.
 
As the bridge tilts forward, it's radius is lessened. I wonder if the 'sitaring' that some people report on the G string isn't (solely) from the pinch point at the bridge but may be due to the radius being insufficient for the middle strings to clear the frets?

Having modified my Marsden, I am getting an insanely low action, without the need for more than a smidgeon of relief (I find too much relief screws up the action above the 12th fret). I can't, hand on heart, swear this is due to the two small washers, but its all to the good and I'm happy!
 
Nice work. Depending on the thickness of the wiggled you can choose how upward you want it.
 
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The 'wiggle' is to get the washer rings to split and to fit around the posts. They will be squashed flat by the bridge when its fitted, so the only adjustment would be by having different thickness washers. I just went with what I had in hand and they did the job!
 
Th is looking really interesting!
Buy a set of Locking Tailpiece Studs from Philadelphia Luthier Tools. This will solve all Your problems. They're $11 for Chrome & Nickel, Black & Gold are $13. They have them in both Metric and Standard size. Don't let their low price fool You. I was sceptical, but after emailing them I decided what the heck they're only $11 and I won't be out much so I ordered a set in Chrome. When they arrived they were even nicer than what was described to me in the email. I was blown away by the quality for any price. These Studs are Super High Quality American made from American Steel. They're the best designed Studs I've seen anywhere. I ordered the Domed Head Studs. I think their smooth low profile rounded Heads are best for Wraparounds, but the traditional Flat Top Heads look best with a Stopbar Tailpiece or especially Vintage Gibson's with the Stopbar type Wraparounds. If You wanna have the Ultimate setup buy a set of Stud Spacers from Faber USA. Use these Spacers with Philadelphia's Locking Tailpiece Studs then You can set Your Action (String height) and tighten everything down. Afterwards You'll be able to take Your Wraparound on and off during String changes without affecting Your preset String Action by simply removing the Stud's Heads. The Spacer will keep Your Action where You have it set. I hope this helps as many people as possible. I'm not affiliated in anyway with Philadelphia Luthier Tools or Faber USA. When You find something really great You wanna share it with as many as possible.
Best Wishes & God
Bless, Jimmy in NC....
 
If You notice I didn't post any actual links only the name of the places where I purchased the products I recommended.
God Bless You &
Yours, Jimmy in NC....
 
Creative idea! In my SE EG's case the studs were loose in the stud wells themselves causing the bridge to lean forward. John Mann hooked me up with replacement wells that fit the metric studs and solved the problem.

Jim
 
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