PRS SE Standard Nut and Hardware Questions

H

HawaiiBoy

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Dec 7, 2020
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Aloha, new to the forum.
I played a PRS SE Standard today, really loved the neck (wide thin) and fret work.
When playing with the tremolo, I noticed "creaking" from the nut. Are these SE nuts
like the Lubricated nuts on the USA models? I never heard that sound on a USA made PRS.
I read that the selector is a 3 way switch with a coil tap on the push pull on the tone control.
Is this switch proprietary to PRS, no after market 5 way switch option?
I understand the tremolo bridge is a PRS design but not the same as used on the USA models.
What is the difference?
Mahalo
 
Aloha

To answer a few of your questions,

The Nuts on SE's have been greatly panned as being inadequate, and it the source of many threads regarding tuning issues. That being said, If you buy an SE buy a new Black TUSQ XL PRS & Ibanez Style Electric Guitar Nut 43 X 6 PT-6643-00 or real Bone Nut in the right size for the neck of the guitar. Make sure to have the slots filed if you are going to use heavier strings.

You could put a 5 Way selector in in place of the Push Pull and 3 way, but it will be all aftermarket parts. There are a few threads that show the wiring diagrams for that change. Keep in mind, if you put USA parts in an SE, you will have to enlarge the holes for the pots as they are smaller and metric.

The Bridge is PRS Designed, but manufactured to PRS spec in the Far East. I have a Korean one on my 30th Anniversary Custom 24, and find no fault in it. I suppose I could eek out a bit more sustain from a USA made All Brass one from John Mann, but I haven't felt the need yet, as I just don't play that often.

Best of luck to you, and welcome to the fun house.
 
HawaiiBoy said:
Aloha, new to the forum.
I played a PRS SE Standard today, really loved the neck (wide thin) and fret work.
When playing with the tremolo, I noticed "creaking" from the nut. Are these SE nuts
like the Lubricated nuts on the USA models? I never heard that sound on a USA made PRS.
I read that the selector is a 3 way switch with a coil tap on the push pull on the tone control.
Is this switch proprietary to PRS, no after market 5 way switch option?
I understand the tremolo bridge is a PRS design but not the same as used on the USA models.
What is the difference?
Mahalo
Click to expand...


Yes, the nuts are different. You can swap in a core nut or bone, either is the way to go. You can always try to lube it. I've never had a problem with a SE nut, but I always put graphite on my guitars. I did jut pick up some nut sauce on a whim to try but graphite has always worked great.

You can swap in a 5 way, aftermarket works. I use a core 5 way. Its nice but expensive and not sure its worth the upcharge. I l use it because I like the shape of the core PRS switch tip. You can buy theses separately too but may need some modification to work on another brand switch including SE. I ran into this on another guitar switch swap. I was able to get it fit though. US pots are a worthy upgrade and the holes do require to be reamed and new knobs.

The trems are the same basic design but made of different materials. The trem arms are different too. John Mann is the way to go for upgrades here. He sells a couple complete trems or an upgrade kit. I think its a worthy swap to do at least the kit. The saddles and block do make a difference, visually and sonically.

The tuners and pickups are different as well.
 
SinSir said:
Yes, the nuts are different. You can swap in a core nut or bone, either is the way to go. You can always try to lube it. I've never had a problem with a SE nut, but I always put graphite on my guitars. I did jut pick up some nut sauce on a whim to try but graphite has always worked great.

You can swap in a 5 way, aftermarket works. I use a core 5 way. Its nice but expensive and not sure its worth the upcharge. I l use it because I like the shape of the core PRS switch tip. You can buy theses separately too but may need some modification to work on another brand switch including SE. I ran into this on another guitar switch swap. I was able to get it fit though. US pots are a worthy upgrade and the holes do require to be reamed and new knobs.

The trems are the same basic design but made of different materials. The trem arms are different too. John Mann is the way to go for upgrades here. He sells a couple complete trems or an upgrade kit. I think its a worthy swap to do at least the kit. The saddles and block do make a difference, visually and sonically.

The tuners and pickups are different as well.
Click to expand...

Mahalo
 
I've had one SE with the stock nut on it (still do). I've changed ALL the others I have or have sold over the years.The nuts are made out of a lesser plastic. The one remaining SE with the stock nut will get changed if I keep the guitar. They seem to bind, and the tone changes when you put on a better nut.
 
dogrocketp said:
I've had one SE with the stock nut on it (still do). I've changed ALL the others I have or have sold over the years.The nuts are made out of a lesser plastic. The one remaining SE with the stock nut will get changed if I keep the guitar. They seem to bind, and the tone changes when you put on a better nut.
Click to expand...

That’s very true. I swapped the nuts on my SE Custom 24s mainly for tuning stability reasons. I was surprised how much more the guitars ring out with the Core nut. It’s definitely noticeable, plugged in and unplugged.
 
68reissue said:
That’s very true. I swapped the nuts on my SE Custom 24s mainly for tuning stability reasons. I was surprised how much more the guitars ring out with the Core nut. It’s definitely noticeable, plugged in and unplugged.
Click to expand...
I really have to change the nut on my 35th Anniversary SE once the lockdown in my area is over. I got a bit of a tuning issue and I really want to be done with it.
 
68reissue said:
That’s very true. I swapped the nuts on my SE Custom 24s mainly for tuning stability reasons. I was surprised how much more the guitars ring out with the Core nut. It’s definitely noticeable, plugged in and unplugged.
Click to expand...
Is the Core nut a drop in replacement for the 2020 white Indonesian SE nut ?
Mahalo
 
I was shocked at the difference a bone nut was compared to whatever plastic pos used to be in my old Squier strat (snobbery aside, it’s a darn good guitar). I don’t hate the nut material PRS uses, but it’s going to get changed in my new guitar at some point just because it’s cheap and more importantly, a genuine upgrade.
 
Update:
Installed PRS SE Locking Tuners. Simplifies life :)
Tried a couple pickups (Suhr SSV and old Bill Lawrence L90XL) Both sounded excellent but the originals went back in.
Biggest difference came switching in a PRS style bridge with a brass block w/ Mann /PRS slotted bridge screws.
Really warmed up the tone and the guitar sounds bigger and more resonant.
The original bridge sounds good. Very focused but thinner and brighter. I was a little concerned because the original block and screws
had some surface corrosion.
Waiting for the Wilkinson WLS locking saddles sized for PRS bridges.
 
dogrocketp said:
You can get a Tusq nut for about 12 and shipping. If you get the right one, it's an easy fix.
Click to expand...

This. BTW Hawaii, you can get them blank or preslotted, and so long as you match the width the preslotted ones work great. Keep in mind if you go Tusq, there are several flavors: Regular Tusq, XL, and Nubone. The XL version is supposed to be self lubricating, and Nubone is a straight emulation of bone material.
 
https://mystuff.bublup.com/ui/landing_page?item_id=001-i-d779c37c-095e-4231-afe7-69e92740fc4f

The new Wilkinson WLS locking saddles for PRS style bridges is installed and works as expected.
Only issue is the length of the height adjustment screws. Ordered a shorter set off Ebay.
Wish PRS or Mann Made would release the PRS version of locking saddles.
I was happy with my SE Standard when I first bought it. Now I'm really happy !
Now I just need a gig to test it out with (laugh):)
 
I put TUSQ XL nuts on two SEs, a Santana and a Bernie Marsden, and they were both massive improvements. I tried that "drop test" thing that you can see Paul doing in a video, and the stock SE nuts were clearly less resonant. The TUSQ nut also eliminated a minor tuning instability issue on my Santana.

I also replaced the stock tuners in both SEs with a direct drop-in set of Grover automatic lockers, and those were highly successful as well.

And finally, I pulled the stock 3-way toggle switch out of the Santana and replaced it with a 5-way rotary wired as per original Custom 24s. Really made the guitar a lot more flexible. But, I had to flip the magnet in one pickup, and change the leads from 2 conductor to 4, which I'm sure would scare a lot of guys. I may replace the rotary switch with one of those FreeWay toggles eventually.

I don't really have a problem with the stock trem on the Santana. Very stable. I'm open to tinkering with it in the future though.
 
Reopening this thread after a year ...
I see that Tusq PT-6643-00 has very close/identical external dimensions to the original PRS SE nut but has narrower (too much to me) "E to E" spacing:.
original is 36.7 mm,
tusq is 35.2.

1.5 millimeters I guess change completely the feeling and the playing on the fretboard. So I am looking for an alternate option.
Any suggestion ?

Thanks in advance.
 
Well, since this thread has been resurrected, seems like a good time to debunk some Internet forum nonsense.

If you hear ‘creaking’ at the nut when using the trem it simply means the nut slots haven’t been cut properly for the gauge of string and instead of the string moving freely within the slot it’s binding. Simple as that.

This has nothing whatsoever to do with the nut being of the SE variety (which I’m of the opinion is not a variety at all and is exactly the same as those used on the core models - and I will only concede that I’m wrong when PRS tell me otherwise).

Even if you had a nut made of unicorn bone, if it’s cut incorrectly it’s going to creak! Save yourself some money and some hassle and adjust the nut slot. I mean, if you buy a new nut you’re still going to have to adjust the slots anyway, so why wouldn’t you just try it?!
 
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