PRS SE Nut Material

[mitchewr]

I just bought an SE 245 and was wondering what material the factory nut is made out of. I have always replaced the stock nuts on my other guitars with tusq nuts but was wondering if I needed to do this on the 245. It seems to be better quality than the typical Epi plastic nuts but...

 

[andy474x]

I don't know for sure what they are, but I've never felt the need to replace the nut on any of the stoptail SE's - as long as it's filed for the correct string sizes. They stay in tune very well. Thinking about a new nut for my trem equipped SE, but that's a different story.

 

[IRG]

Mine feels like plastic. Not real fond of it, will be upgraded to a custom cut bone nut hopefully soon. Goes out of tune with just about every bend I make sadly. Tried nut sauce too.

 

[garrett]

From what I can tell, it's just black plastic. I replaced mine with bone and didn't notice any improvement. Probably not worth switching it unless you're having problems.

 

[mitchewr]

Okay. What's the best way to tell if a string is 'binding' in the nut? Run the string through the nut slots, with your hand, before winding it around the tuning peg?

 

[Bumps]

As I said in my introductory post the nut on my SE 245 is the best cut nut straight from the factory I have ever had from any manufacturer. I have played my last four gigs (2 hours each) with just this guitar and have had no tuning problems at all and I do some big BIG bends!!!!!!

 

[Bumps]

mitchewr the best method of checking binding in the nut slots is to play an open string then press the string behind the nut to make it go sharp when you release it should go back to pitch.

 

[Mikegarveyblues]

On my Bernie the nut seemed like a cheap plastic but the black one on my SE C24 seemed of better quality and close in looks and sound (when dropped) to the Tusq XL one. Had the nut on the C24 been cut correctly I would have kept it.

 

[mitchewr]

mitchewr the best method of checking binding in the nut slots is to play an open string then press the string behind the nut to make it go sharp when you release it should go back to pitch.

Ahh okay. I'll give that a try later today.

On my Bernie the nut seemed like a cheap plastic but the black one on my SE C24 seemed of better quality and close in looks and sound (when dropped) to the Tusq XL one. Had the nut on the C24 been cut correctly I would have kept it.

Yea didn't quite seem like the cheap plastic stuff other 'lower end' guitars come with but not quite like the tusq nut in my Schecter so I was curious.