I've been finishing guitars and doing tech work on the side since 197, also building instruments and playing thousands of gigs - my "day job"career, though, was on the technical side of the paint and coatings industry.
And whether acrylic, nitrocellulose or a blend (which is very common to improve flexibility and impact resistance of what you *think* is nitro) I look at the MSDS for any product that will come in contact with, clean and/or polish the finish.
I will have to request MSDS from PRS as I can't find them online. But basically, I recommend avoiding any "artificial shine" materials, i.e. any product that leaves something on the surface to make it "shiny" or as a water resistance "improver" (all lacquers are water resistant once dry).
That means avoiding all polishes/cleaners containing silicone, silanes, siloxanes, and waxes of any type.
The best cleaner/polish for any lacquer, polyester, polyurethane, UV-cure resin coating etc. is a buffing compound that leaves absolutely nothing on the surface - and preferably a clean cotton buffing wheel, but hand application is fine (don't use portable rotary "buffers". you can burn through a lacquer in seconds.). All of them microscopically abrade the surface, but remove no appreciable amount of coating after thousands of "cleanings".
Stewmac's discontinued "Preservation" polish was outstanding, and their "Clean & Shine" is very good. My most-used polish, though, is Chemical Guys V38 Optical Grade Final Polish (and other, slightly more aggressive Chemical Guys polishes for really filthy surfaces). The stuff is sold on Amazon.
I found it looking for a good Porsche wheel polish for my Boxster - and it's proven itself even more by safely polishing the 13" primary mirror in my Dobsonian telescope - which can be destroyed by microscratches left by common polishes.
I hope that's helpful - and I'll request MSDS from PRS and see what's disclosed (not all MSDS list specifics - "proprietary" items are known by emergency services but the general public).