Now that is what I'm talking about. Playability, Feel, Tone, Build Quality? 100%. Finish? You be the judge.Although I would say it's probably not the right place to bring this up it is not a harsh statement, it's just a fact.
Which is preferable could presumably be subjective I suppose, but I know which one I like.
When I spec'd a quilt top laguna dragon breath CU24 2 years ago I specifically referenced that one (which I now own):
asking specifically for 1) smooth gradation, 2) avoiding the abrupt V shape seen in most dragon breath stain jobs the last 2-3 years (see the Dragon 35th run for example).
Here's what I got (there were other issues along the way such as not being shown any of the woods picked):
I did consider having the dealer sending it back immediately for re-staining or selling it as a store build instead; but after waiting 12+months neither option was very appealing.
The aggravating factor is there was nothing hard about what I asked; it was just effectively ignored.
Anyone who has spent a decent amount of time dyeing wood, let alone pros who do this all day long at PRS, would have no problem avoiding that abrupt V and ensuring smooth color transitions.
It just requires a bit more attention and time, and frankly you expect both at that price point.
I agree, let's leave the ill-intended trolling at home, but as a business owner and *devout* fan of Paul Reed Smith, I would be negligent to say nothing. If the plain truth hurts, it's time to fix it plain and simple. I've seen it before hoping it was a bygone episode, but here we are again. Whatever simple measures are necessary to improve these results, no doubt that customers and hard-working employees will be all stoked and enjoy the pride of a job excellently done.
Staining wood like Dave did is not easy. I had a long conversation with him at Experience just about my Iceberg DB DGT, and he NAILED what I wanted. I would get that guy on the ol' horn. It will pay off, guaranteed.