Please recommend the wood piece to block trem in S2 std 22...thx!

[Russ73]

I couldn't find a thread about what size block and where you're buying it??... I have a project that will require some drop D on the go....suggestions ??

 

[theDeepender]

I couldn't find a thread about what size block and where you're buying it??... I have a project that will require some drop D on the go....suggestions ??

I measured the distance between the tremolo block and the body cavity wall and found a piece of basswood at Lowe’s that was the exact thickness. I don’t remember what that measurement was. I would not use pine, because it might be too soft. I’m guessing that the perfect wood would be whatever the body is made from. But I wouldn’t put too much thought into that, because many use a metal blocking rod that you can find online.

 

[Senor Verde]

I always used the same kind of wood as the core of the guitar body. PRS CE22 = Mahogany, Alder body Strat = Alder wood etc.

I also put the wood piece behind the trem block so the string tension will hold the block in place naturally, not with the trem springs working against the natural physics of the guitar.

 

[JasonE]

I am not sure the type of wood really matters. Just about any type will hold up. The pressure will be spread across the whole piece of wood. I would recommend getting a good fitting thickness and sliding it in behind the tremolo block then removing one of the springs from it. That will loosen the spring tension enough to let the tremolo block press against the wooden block with enough force to keep it in place.

 

[KentuckyBoiledChiccan]

Get ready for a lot of sanding. I advise going +2mm or so to what you measured, and sanding down for a perfect fit. I'm playing 11s, and I still had to add some wood or trem stopper (trem screws are in the way of a trem stopper in my STD24) to block the trem well. Maybe with a decked trem and good block fit you could get away with it, my trems are around 1.5mm above the body line so I had to add some support on the other side of the trem block.

I went with Sapale, mainly because why not

Anyway, here's some pix for inspiration

 

[Russ73]

Get ready for a lot of sanding. I advise going +2mm or so to what you measured, and sanding down for a perfect fit. I'm playing 11s, and I still had to add some wood or trem stopper (trem screws are in the way of a trem stopper in my STD24) to block the trem well. Maybe with a decked trem and good block fit you could get away with it, my trems are around 1.5mm above the body line so I had to add some support on the other side of the trem block.

I went with Sapale, mainly because why not

Anyway, here's some pix for inspiration

That looks great!

 

[KentuckyBoiledChiccan]

That looks great!

Thank you. I'm happy I don't have to do it every day. I would shoot myself in the head

 

[theDeepender]

Get ready for a lot of sanding. I advise going +2mm or so to what you measured, and sanding down for a perfect fit. I'm playing 11s, and I still had to add some wood or trem stopper (trem screws are in the way of a trem stopper in my STD24) to block the trem well. Maybe with a decked trem and good block fit you could get away with it, my trems are around 1.5mm above the body line so I had to add some support on the other side of the trem block.

I went with Sapale, mainly because why not

Anyway, here's some pix for inspiration

Yeah, I was too lazy to form fit the curves. I just made mine short enough to be inside the bends.

 

[KentuckyBoiledChiccan]

Yeah, I was too lazy to form fit the curves. I just made mine short enough to be inside the bends.

That works for all normal people. Yet I'm absolutely nuts, and like to punish myself with the most possibly difficult solutions for total of zero benefits. I'm only glad I decided not to use walnut like I did with my strats. I would probably still sand these edges to this day. Walnut is dense, working with Sapale was a pleasure

 

[aamefford]

@Simon Says, you blocked both sides? That means a bunch of test fitting and sanding of the rear block, correct? This always seemed the most sure way to and rigid way to block the trem. I've read 6 or 8 different articles, with methods blocking both sides, blocking just under the trem springs and pulling the springs tight to hold the block, to the assorted metal devices. I'm not sure the value I'm adding here, but maybe any comments on the various methods.

 

[DreamTheaterRules]

@Simon Says, you blocked both sides? That means a bunch of test fitting and sanding of the rear block, correct? This always seemed the most sure way to and rigid way to block the trem. I've read 6 or 8 different articles, with methods blocking both sides, blocking just under the trem springs and pulling the springs tight to hold the block, to the assorted metal devices. I'm not sure the value I'm adding here, but maybe any comments on the various methods.

It depends on your objectives. If you don’t want a vibrato, block both sides. I’d never consider doing that on a PRS.

What I would do is, block the spring side only. Then you 1) still have a functioning, if “down only” vibrato. 2) can break a string without any of the others going out of tune and 3) can drop D or whatever other tuning you want to do that lessens tension, without the other strings going out of tune. So basically it would perform like a decked vibrato, such as Eddie preferred, and thus like the one on my Wolfie and Axis.

 

[aamefford]

It depends on your objectives. If you don’t want a vibrato, block both sides. I’d never consider doing that on a PRS.

What I would do is, block the spring side only. Then you 1) still have a functioning, if “down only” vibrato. 2) can break a string without any of the others going out of tune and 3) can drop D or whatever other tuning you want to do that lessens tension, without the other strings going out of tune. So basically it would perform like a decked vibrato, such as Eddie preferred, and thus like the one on my Wolfie and Axis.

Thanks @WingerRules (at least for now). I am thinking about this correctly then. The only question I have left, if one was to care about a bend and any other played strings going a bit flat, does the spring side block take care of that? Does one just tighten up the spring claw? I’m not currently concerned about that scenario, I’m just curious about the whole process.

 

[DreamTheaterRules]

Thanks @WingerRules (at least for now). I am thinking about this correctly then. The only question I have left, if one was to care about a bend and any other played strings going a bit flat, does the spring side block take care of that? Does one just tighten up the spring claw? I’m not currently concerned about that scenario, I’m just curious about the whole process.

Big bends can make other strings go flat, just like with a floating trem, if you don’t adjust anything else when you block it. Tighten the springs some to remedy this. just remember to experiment… if you just crank them down a bunch, your vibrato will work but be very stiff. Find the balance between action and bend ability with tuning stability by adjusting the spring claw.

 

[theDeepender]

That works for all normal people. Yet I'm absolutely nuts, and like to punish myself with the most possibly difficult solutions for total of zero benefits. I'm only glad I decided not to use walnut like I did with my strats. I would probably still sand these edges to this day. Walnut is dense, working with Sapale was a pleasure

No, I wouldn’t say “zero benefits”. There is a great feeling of satisfaction that comes from accomplishing a difficult task to one’s own exacting standards. Well done. Well done.

 

[KentuckyBoiledChiccan]

No, I wouldn’t say “zero benefits”. There is a great feeling of satisfaction that comes from accomplishing a difficult task to one’s own exacting standards. Well done. Well done.

Yeah, but I'm still nuts

 

[Alnus Rubra]

Yeah, but I'm still nuts

But in a good way.

 

[KentuckyBoiledChiccan]

@Simon Says, you blocked both sides? That means a bunch of test fitting and sanding of the rear block, correct? This always seemed the most sure way to and rigid way to block the trem. I've read 6 or 8 different articles, with methods blocking both sides, blocking just under the trem springs and pulling the springs tight to hold the block, to the assorted metal devices. I'm not sure the value I'm adding here, but maybe any comments on the various methods.

Yeah, it's what Daddy Winger said

 

[KentuckyBoiledChiccan]

But in a good way.

I'll give you a hug

 

[KentuckyBoiledChiccan]

@Simon Says, you blocked both sides? That means a bunch of test fitting and sanding of the rear block, correct? This always seemed the most sure way to and rigid way to block the trem. I've read 6 or 8 different articles, with methods blocking both sides, blocking just under the trem springs and pulling the springs tight to hold the block, to the assorted metal devices. I'm not sure the value I'm adding here, but maybe any comments on the various methods.

Ok, I can't do it the lazy way; let me explain why I did that. I didn't wanted to lose the springs to much or going less than 3 springs; it's probably voodoo like the rest of my thinking, but I believe the strings under proper tension can add to the tone. It's the idea I had back in my stratocaster days, where every spring change I had a different tone. I also wanted the trem brass block to be well sandwiched between two objects to transfer vibrations better back on to the body, then neck, and finally back on the strings. I figured that the more snug = more vibrations are being feedback on to the guitar. This is also a reason why I did the largest block I could with these rounded corners. Also, its the main reason why I used medium dense wood (similar to what guitar is build of) instead of soft species like some other popular blocks (Clapton's made of pine).

 

[Mentalo87]

I did it the same way like Simon Says but instead of wood I used Polyoxymethylene (POM). Using synthetic material crosses out one variable in regard of tuning stability, at least imho.