Phase 3 tuner question (newbie on Kool-Aide)

[TXSteve]

Hello all.
I wanted to save my introduction for a while as I'm an old newbie with way too much to learn to contribute or even get into conversations on here. I joined and have been lurking since March 2021. The short version is that a few years back I found myself with a bunch of spare time to fill and one day I'm sitting on the couch watching sports and this GIANT thought popped into my head, "learn the guitar". This is at the top of my bucket list, I have the time, I can afford to jump in and with the internet I have easy access to lessons, no excuses. Went to my brother's house who happens to be an amazing blues guitarist, has his own studio and has been playing for over 50 years. He sent me home with an S, T, LP and on the way out he handed me one and said I might like it so try it. Fiddled around with the first three and always assumed I'd end up with an LP based on my musical taste, until I opened the case for the PRS CU22 10 top. I called and asked, what is a PRS? I drank the Kool-Aid and ate the cake too...dang it.

I now have in order of purchase:
(19 SE CU24 roasted maple neck moved to my son's house)
20 CU24 10top, Autumn Sky
19 Silver Sky, Orion Green/Rosewood
17 McCarty 594 DC 10top, "Faded"-Faded Whale Blue
21 SSH Wood Library Artist, Iceberg Fade (Brian's 10th Anniversary run)
21 McCarty 594 HBII 10top w/ ebony board and abalone signature inlay, Purple Iris

I know...they don't exist or they're Hello Kitty at best until I post pictures. Once my oldest daughter gets back to work she will help me. She's knows IT, I suck at it.

My 17 McCarty 594 DC was used and I'm in the process of taking it apart and giving it a really good cleaning.
Now for the question that I have searched for an answer and cannot find.

Can I disassemble the Phase III locking tuners so I can really clean them up good?

Edit: How do you fix a spelling error in the thread title?

 

[Bowtiefanatc]

I wouldn’t disassemble them. I’d clean and then perhaps at a very very tiny amount of oil if needed to make them smoother.

 

[KentuckyBoiledChiccan]

I would unscrew the gear to clean it but this is as far as I would go. Maybe dipping them in deoxid or DW40 for the night without the the tuner buttons (especially if they're wood or plastic).

Hello all.

I now have in order of purchase:
(19 SE CU24 roasted maple neck moved to my son's house)
20 CU24 10top, Autumn Sky
19 Silver Sky, Orion Green/Rosewood
17 McCarty 594 DC 10top, "Faded"-Faded Whale Blue
21 SSH Wood Library Artist, Iceberg Fade (Brian's 10th Anniversary run)
21 McCarty HBII 10top w/ ebony board and abalone signature inlay, Purple Iris

I like your style

 

[TXSteve]

My main goal was to remove the gear. I was afraid that it wasn't as easy as it appears.
Thx

 

[KentuckyBoiledChiccan]

My main goal was to remove the gear. I was afraid that it wasn't as easy as it appears.
Thx

Hope it helps

 

[TXSteve]

Awesome.
Thank you sir.

 

[KentuckyBoiledChiccan]

While we there.

I'm looking for Phase 3 drilling pattern. I already asked PRS but they usually take the time with answering and I'm buzzing to correct the butchered way I have installed them on my standard.

Since the tuner buttons are interchangeable between Phase 3 and Gotoh I suspect they are also made by Gotoh. Therefore there is a chance the datasheet with drilling pattern may be the same as - for example SD90 line of tuners.

Any clues here?

 

[Erick_S]

They don’t use a template.

When I converted to Phase IIIs, I used a trick from installing Grovers on my LPs…I laid a 6” straightedge along the top edge of two tuners (with bushing ínstales) and pushed against the tuners. That pushed the top of the tuners perfectly straight. I clamped the straightedge with two small clamps.

You can do the same with the Phase IIIs. The straightedge would align along the top edge of the tuner bodies. Note the top screw lugs create a ‘bulge’…use either business cards or another straightedge across the tops of the screw lugs. This will give a flat surface for the main straightedge.

If you need a picture, I can add a couple.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

They don’t use a template.

When I converted to Phase IIIs, I used a trick from installing Grovers on my LPs…I laid a 6” straightedge along the top edge of two tuners (with bushing ínstales) and pushed against the tuners. That pushed the top of the tuners perfectly straight. I clamped the straightedge with two small clamps.

You can do the same with the Phase IIIs. The straightedge would align along the top edge of the tuner bodies. Note the top screw lugs create a ‘bulge’…use either business cards or another straightedge across the tops of the screw lugs. This will give a flat surface for the main straightedge.

If you need a picture, I can add a couple.

I’d be interested to see a photo of this, please.

 

[KentuckyBoiledChiccan]

They don’t use a template.

When I converted to Phase IIIs, I used a trick from installing Grovers on my LPs…I laid a 6” straightedge along the top edge of two tuners (with bushing ínstales) and pushed against the tuners. That pushed the top of the tuners perfectly straight. I clamped the straightedge with two small clamps.

You can do the same with the Phase IIIs. The straightedge would align along the top edge of the tuner bodies. Note the top screw lugs create a ‘bulge’…use either business cards or another straightedge across the tops of the screw lugs. This will give a flat surface for the main straightedge.

If you need a picture, I can add a couple.

This is exactly what I did when I installed phase 3. I still managed to mess up G and D tuner alignment

I have ordered Gotoh C-A-R-D 3/3 spacers. They only few quid so worth for science.

If the mounting holes and the post match the spacers I will know I can do the template with Gotoh SD90 tuner datasheet.

Buddy of mine has a laser cutter and he has a brain to do stuff in fusion360 so I will get that template made regardless.

When proven good I will start new tread with progress and shared files

 

[Erick_S]

My main goal was to remove the gear. I was afraid that it wasn't as easy as it appears.
Thx

BTW, when you clean and reassemble, re-lubricate with white lithium grease. That is what PRS uses on the worm gears.