Pedal boards...daisy chain or isolated power supply?

The Viking Gangster

New Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2015
Messages
285
I have decided that I need a pedal board and a power supply system. No more 9 volt battery crap.

I've seen boards with daisy chain power supply, and there are power supplies with separate isolated supplies.

My assumption is the isolated supplies are better, but is that true?

Where can I get a good pedal board and power supply too, besides building one myself?

Thanks forum

Oh yeah, why did TC Electronics have the MiniDitto made with compression screws to put in the battery? I don't have compression screw drivers at home. This is was made me say, "F&*! this 9 volt battery stuff"
 
Look into the Pedaltrain boards, and a Voodoo Two power supply.
I have two boards and both power supplies.
 
A daisy chain tends to promote ground loops, which leads to hums and buzzes.

A power supply with isolated outlets tends to eliminate the possibility of ground loops - though they can still occur with some poorly-designed pedals out there. But fortunately most pedals today have adequate ground design.

I addition, a power supply with isolated outlets means that each pedal can draw enough current without affecting the current draw of other pedals. So the sound quality is generally a little better, and there is the possibility of the power supply working with power-hungry digital pedals as well.

Finally, with a daisy chain, if the cable goes bad, you're SOL. With today's isolated power supplies, you simply replace a bad cable for one pedal (in fact, when my son's band was in town for his recent tour, he discovered a bad cable at soundcheck, and fortunately, I had a few extras I brought him to finish out his tour). It was a very simple thing to fix.
 
I have a OneSpot, which daisy chains In parallel.
The configuration works with my pedals, half of which are Boss and the remainder boutique.
It might work even better with isolated supply, but I suspect that most configurations will work fine with a OneSpot. If it doesn't you're only out thirty bucks - chump change for those spending $4,000.00+ on a single guitar.
 
I also use one spots on my 2 boards there are very powerful for there size also very stable on a meter. I have never had a grounding issues.
isolated supplies can be very helpful if you have / or had issues with noise
 
Honestly, it baffles me that so many of you are so insistent on using boards with require a power supply like a one spot, voodoo, or fuel tanks which take up space and still call for extra wiring for an individual pedal when you can get a Furman SPB-8C, or a step down from that (I say a step down because the Furman has a hardshell case), an SKB PS45. Both of these are great powered pedal boards which can power all 9Volt pedals, and also have Edison's which can power effects them (The Furman has more of these though). The Furman is also a power conditioner as well.
 
Honestly, it baffles me that so many of you are so insistent on using boards with require a power supply like a one spot, voodoo, or fuel tanks which take up space and still call for extra wiring for an individual pedal when you can get a Furman SPB-8C, or a step down from that (I say a step down because the Furman has a hardshell case), an SKB PS45. Both of these are great powered pedal boards which can power all 9Volt pedals, and also have Edison's which can power effects them (The Furman has more of these though). The Furman is also a power conditioner as well.
I looked at those... but preferred to do my own custom board, because I like the 2-tier approach. And also because building things is FUN, and a pedalboard is an ideal DIY project.

4036fdaa814e26ea44be6af7aab9c5fd_zpsujzpp5pj.jpg
 
Honestly, it baffles me that so many of you are so insistent on using boards with require a power supply

Very simple. I've owned that Furman pedalboard with the built-in power supply. It has limitations. These are:

1. The power outputs are 9V only. Many digital pedals require a 12V outlet. And if you use the wall wart outlets on the board to power those digital pedals, they can induce noise into most wahs on the board, some pedals, and even nearby cables. This was definitely the case with the one I owned.

2. The 9V outlets are limited to 100 milliamps each, which means they will not power most digital pedals, such as the Eventide H9, which needs 400 ma and runs on 9V power. See #1, above, as to why it's good not to use wall warts on a pedal board.

3, The 9V outlets are not individually isolated. While they each have a protection circuit, the lack of individual isolation can cause ground loops with some pedals.

These limitations aren't theoretical. My Furman pedalboard was a source of noise no matter how I arranged and hooked up my pedals, that made it unacceptable for serious studio work. Changing over to a board with a Voodoo Labs Pedal Power eliminated the noise completely from my rig.

Granted, every rig is different, and every pedalboard will have different pedals on it. So what was problematic for me, may not be problematic for you. And live work is different from studio work.

But if you want to know why some of us "insist" on using a board with a regulated, isolated, multi-voltage, power supply that will put out more than 100 milliamps per pedal, this is why.

Incidentally, Mike Fuller of Fulltone recommends only isolated, regulated power supplies like the Voodoo Labs, as do several other manufacturers. There is a good reason for this.

I don't diss Furman products. I use their rackmount P-1800 PF-R to power my amplifiers. They make very good stuff. But others do pedal power better, I hope you now understand why I'm so insistent on using a board with a regulated, isolated power supply. Of course, I can only speak for myself.

Here's my board. The top surface where the pedals sit is hinged. Underneath there's another surface where the power supply lives. I use a Voodoo Labs 4x4. The board has two inside AC outlets. All i/O from the guitar and to the amps comes via the jacks on top of the board. The blue Lehle switch box handles three amplifiers.

The board has a matching Tolex covered lid as well. Very sturdy and studio-friendly. The pedal surface is birch ply, and doesn't bend or flex when you hit the switch on a pedal, or use the wah. That's very nice - my Furman flexed.

It's also nice to have an angled, or a two tier pedalboard. Easier access to the top row of pedals. The Furman doesn't have that. So actually, there are a lot of reasons I moved the Furman along!

Aaaaannnnddd...Furman stopped making it. So there's a reason, you can't buy one.



Here is the board with the removable lid in place. Very easy setup and move-around thing. The guy who made mine (Rockfoot Pedalboards) will configure the number and location of the I/O jacks, power outlets, power input, power switch, etc., any way that suits the customer. There are some tasty choices of both tolex and fancy woods. The board is available with or without the hinged pedal surface, though I like having the extra storage and a protected place for the power supply. The only downside? It's a little heavy. Not terrible, though, and I can move it around without problems even though I'm over 60. I don't play out any more, but I can move this thing around without any issues.

 
Last edited:
I like both approaches... coyote's DIY and Les' Über board.

:rolleyes:
Thanks. I have two filtered AC outlets under the hinged top tier, and the OneSpot is plugged into one - the 18v supply that powers the EnvelopePhaser is plugged into the other. There's also a third AC outlet on the back, into which I now plug a dual LED music stand light that illuminates the pedals.

Waaaay back in the early 80s I had three pedals and a power supply bolted to a piece of thin MDF board. I've always liked being organized about the pedals. Used to drive me bonkers to watch a band not get on as scheduled because the guitarist couldn't get his mess of pedals together.
 
Noise is a crapshoot. It starts with your pedals and works up to the source power and then the environment. With my setup, my old Furman SPB-8 has performed admirably. Zero noise, withstood hundreds of gigs, protected you cork-scented pedals and is easy to clean up. They don't make it anymore but despite some negative reviews, the power has lived up to the Furman name. Good power filtration and protection is essential, and if you choose a good quality model, noise will not be a problem. Go isolated and never look back.
 
Les, I think you might have had an older generation Furman board. Mine doesn't exhibit any of those issues and is constructed differently. My board, itself, is reinforced fiberglass and it is tough as nails. The power section uses a toroid transformer with immeasurable noise. Yes, it's stuck at 9VDC@100mA per output, but isolation is excellent.

Now, after Furman sold the product line to SKB (or whatever the arrangement was) much changed. I also have a newer Stage Five with multiple voltage capability and other cool, albeit unused, features. It's made of an injected plastic but very well built and quiet.

I just happen to prefer the older one with 3 Edison/NEMA AC outlets where I put a customized 3-way power strip for my Strymon wall warts. ZERO leakage or EMI. But now I'm doing the old man thing and making a small practice board. Probably going with a Cioks power supply, too.
 
Last edited:
A few questions you need to ask is how many pedals am I running, which ones, what will I add in the future, how is the power where I play and how much will this board travel.

From there the answers will come. Boards are a great way to clean up your rats nest of Rat pedals and stop buying 9 volts but, they take a little planning.
 
Les, I think you might have had an older generation Furman board.

Possibly so. It's been a few years, so maybe they improved it. Nonetheless, the Voodoo Labs thing cleaned up the noise, and of course, I can power all my pedals without having to use wall warts or a power strip.

So there's no reason to use anything else, at least for me at this point.
 
Back
Top