Nitrocellulose Finish

[Moondog Wily]

I use the microfiber cloths linked below, and put them in the washing machine after using cleaner or polish on "delicates" using just a little bit of a mild detergent made for baby clothes. The microfiber is very absorptive and very soft, and the edgeless design means no swirl marks from the stitching that's on the edges of most towels.

I've mentioned this before. I once did some experimenting seeing how long it took to build up a haze (which is simply caused by micro-scratching the surface) rubbing various materials on a clear plastic CD cover, on the theory that paint is a type of plastic that's also susceptible to scratches.

With soft pure cotton T-shirts or diapers, it only took a few rubs, and the haze started to build up. Took a lot longer with a typical microfiber towel. With these blue ones I really couldn't see a haze, and after a few minutes I gave up. I suppose eventually some hazing would have shown up.

I only use polish if it's absolutely necessary, because it works like sandpaper - it removes finish. It should be used to remove swirl marks, button scratches, etc., and not just to shine the guitar up. For that, use the cleaner.

The PRS cleaner doesn't have grit, and no skill is involved in using it. I use almost no hand pressure when I use it.

Part of the skill in using a polish, on the other hand, is knowing (a) which grit to use (polishes all have fine grit). Always use the finest grit. If the finest polish won't remove a scratch, start with a heavier grit and work your way up from a finer and finer grit to the finest grit, until a gloss is achieved. And (b), very light hand pressure for a longer time will result in more shine than heavier pressure for a shorter time. The idea is to let the polish do the work, not hand pressure.

https://www.griotsgarage.com/produc...ss+towels+set+of+6.do?sortby=ourPicks&from=fn

Thanks for the reply Les! I have one from the "F" company which is actually my favorite (most plush, softest - used only on finest guitars and as a final wipe down before they are put away after each play), one from the EBMM company (second place IMO - used while playing to clean up sweat from strum arm off of git during playing), several from Chemical Guys (506-03 with silk edges - 3rd place - use them for all chemical related applications and are the ones I would be looking at washing - nice because they have different plush on either side AND no tag with branding/material/care instructions) and then many other in tiers below those. I have read that the washing detergents build up on microfiber cloths, so I am happy with the ones I have (and the ones you linked to look nice as well), just don't want to wash them and then start seeing problems because of chemical build ups from the wash detergents chemicals interacting with nitro and/or the product being used for cleaning/polishing. I am going to first try a few in plain hot water in the wash machine (just got a new one this year so very clean still) and see how they turn out. I am sure the mild baby detergent is pretty safe as well, and will give that a try if I am not happy with the results from plain hot water. I do appreciate the feedback on your experience!!!

Happy microin'!
MW

 

[László]

Thanks for the reply Les! I have one from the "F" company which is actually my favorite (most plush, softest - used only on finest guitars and as a final wipe down before they are put away after each play), one from the EBMM company (second place IMO - used while playing to clean up sweat from strum arm off of git during playing), several from Chemical Guys (506-03 with silk edges - 3rd place - use them for all chemical related applications and are the ones I would be looking at washing - nice because they have different plush on either side AND no tag with branding/material/care instructions) and then many other in tiers below those. I have read that the washing detergents build up on microfiber cloths, so I am happy with the ones I have (and the ones you linked to look nice as well), just don't want to wash them and then start seeing problems because of chemical build ups from the wash detergents chemicals interacting with nitro and/or the product being used for cleaning/polishing. I am going to first try a few in plain hot water in the wash machine (just got a new one this year so very clean still) and see how they turn out. I am sure the mild baby detergent is pretty safe as well, and will give that a try if I am not happy with the results from plain hot water. I do appreciate the feedback on your experience!!!

Happy microin'!
MW

No worries, happy to put in my two cents.

I think maybe I should start putting new strings on my guitars and cleaning 'em up a little.

"Really, we have to do that? It's such a PITA."

"I know. But we do want our guitars to look newer than we look."

"Dude, stuff archaeologists dig up out of the dirt in the ground looks newer than we look."

 

[El Fenix]

You guys clean your guitars?

 

[singularity6]

Wow, this thread convinced me to stick with SEs.

One of the primary reasons I play through a solid state amp is because it's less maintenance.

Dealing with floating bridges on half my guitars is enough work already.

 

[László]

Wow, this thread convinced me to stick with SEs.

One of the primary reasons I play through a solid state amp is because it's less maintenance.

Dealing with floating bridges on half my guitars is enough work already.

I get the 'too much work' thing. F'rinstance, I hate changing strings and have to force myself to do it.

But a lot of the nitro warnings you read don't apply to PRS' nitro finishes. They're not all that delicate.

I don't do anything special to care for my Core or PS guitars (5/6 nitro-finished) that I wouldn't do on a less expensive guitar. PRS' nitro finish is hard and just as easy to care for as poly. The only thing different you have to do when choosing polish or picking a guitar stand is ask the simple question, "Is this safe for nitro?" It's a good idea to take the strap off the guitar when you're not playing it. Other than that, no difference.

The idea that tube amps are maintenance-intensive is urban legend. I've had tube amps since 1966. Having a tube blow is very rare, in my experience, I've only had it happen a few times in all that time. The most common problem is that the poorly made new ones sometimes get noisy.

But it isn't a big deal if that happens. Replacing a tube is about as difficult as changing a light bulb. You don't have to roll tubes like I do, you can leave the stock ones in a long, long time. If one goes bad, you pop in a new tube. If it's an output tube, you replace a matched pair. Done. So easy. Takes a minute.

And that's it. There's no other maintenance. Well, maybe dust the thing off every so often.

 

[Slowhands]

I get the 'too much work' thing. F'rinstance, I hate changing strings and have to force myself to do it.

But a lot of the nitro warnings you read don't apply to PRS' nitro finishes. They're not all that delicate.

I don't do anything special to care for my Core or PS guitars (5/6 nitro-finished) that I wouldn't do on a less expensive guitar. PRS' nitro finish is hard and just as easy to care for as poly. The only thing different you have to do when choosing polish or picking a guitar stand is ask the simple question, "Is this safe for nitro?" It's a good idea to take the strap off the guitar when you're not playing it. Other than that, no difference.

The idea that tube amps are maintenance-intensive is urban legend. I've had tube amps since 1966. Having a tube blow is very rare, in my experience, I've only had it happen a few times in all that time. The most common problem is that the poorly made new ones sometimes get noisy.

But it isn't a big deal if that happens. Replacing a tube is about as difficult as changing a light bulb. You don't have to roll tubes like I do, you can leave the stock ones in a long, long time. If one goes bad, you pop in a new tube. If it's an output tube, you replace a matched pair. Done. So easy. Takes a minute.

And that's it. There's no other maintenance. Well, maybe dust the thing off every so often.

Agree with everything you said, it all sounds complex but in the end I've owned many many nitro guitars by Gibson and if you keep them away from rubbers and foams that dissolve nitro (i.e. use nitro safe stands and cleaners) the maintenance comes down to wiping it with a damp cloth every once in a while and if you want it to shine using a polish and/or cleaner. Same as with a poly finish except you just have to make sure it's safe for nitro (and many say that they are so it's not that hard to figure out). The key thing with cleaners\ to avoid is alcohol, it cause nitro finishes to cloud up, never ever put alcohol on a nitro finish and if you spill some wipe it off quickly and you should be okay.

But sticking with SEs is a valid choice as well of course. Enjoy!

 

[Simon Says]

I stopped worrying about nitro on my 35th Anniversary. I was paranoid trying to find the correct stand. Finally got the Gravity VARI-G 3 and no issues at all. Even when I left my Custom on the stand for couple of weeks untouched due to illness. Not a mark on the guitar at all. I personally do not believe its a nitro at all in common understanding. Its thin, sure, smell nice and looks great. Its reliable finish that gives me no hard time at all

 

[Simon Says]

...also - not sure if I said it here or not but I have no issues with finish on my older, late 90s PRS. Its poly of some sort but also thin (can see how thing on the dings it has). This guitar resonates on pair or better to my new Custom. I stopped being finish sniffer, even tho I do sniff my custom, again, it smells so gooooood