I'm lovin' all the electrical outlets! I had my contractor load up my room, as well...
Jamie
Jamie
New Basement Studio
- Thread starter rugerpc
- Start date
It's not so bad puttin' in the boxes and running the wires. It's when it is time for drywall that you wonder if you went overboard. There are 12 double outlets, 7 single outlets, 1 double switch and 3 single switches - and each had to be accurately measured for a hole in the drywall.
There was not a single sheet that didn't require a cut or holes or both.
OK, I fibbed.
Two sheets went up in the closet without any major measuring.... But really - are you gonna hold that against me?
Two sheets went up in the closet without any major measuring.... But really - are you gonna hold that against me?
Some window details.
The basement windows are set into the concrete walls with a little lip and are positioned pretty high. They can be set to open inwards from the top down or the bottom up. From the top down provides better air on nice days. When open, the window pane is raised pretty high - higher than the finished ceiling will be necessitating a bump out.
Here is the framing:
And here is what it looks like with drywall and some boards for the sill and sides. Gaps will be filled with caulk before painting.
The basement windows are set into the concrete walls with a little lip and are positioned pretty high. They can be set to open inwards from the top down or the bottom up. From the top down provides better air on nice days. When open, the window pane is raised pretty high - higher than the finished ceiling will be necessitating a bump out.
Here is the framing:
And here is what it looks like with drywall and some boards for the sill and sides. Gaps will be filled with caulk before painting.
After the drywall usually comes mud and sanding. But I learned from the other parts of the basement that good light is critical to getting a smooth spackle finish - especially if you intend to use semigloss paint.
So, instead of jumping right into the mud, I do all the seams where the finish ceiling will be and paint a strip. With the strip up at the approx ceiling height, it's time to get out the 3 axis laser level and mark for the side rails of the ceiling. (a pic of the laser level will appear when I'm working on the closet shelf)
After I have the L brackets on the walls, it's time to run the mail support brackets. Surveyor's string helps keep them straight and level.
Install a few lights...
And then the rest of the ceiling panels...
Details on the HVAC ducting next....
So, instead of jumping right into the mud, I do all the seams where the finish ceiling will be and paint a strip. With the strip up at the approx ceiling height, it's time to get out the 3 axis laser level and mark for the side rails of the ceiling. (a pic of the laser level will appear when I'm working on the closet shelf)
After I have the L brackets on the walls, it's time to run the mail support brackets. Surveyor's string helps keep them straight and level.
Install a few lights...
And then the rest of the ceiling panels...
Details on the HVAC ducting next....
While I'm getting better pics of the HVAC, here are pics of the primed and painted walls...
Shawn@PRS
yogi
Looks amazing!
HVAC...
When I started the basement, there were 2 very small registers cut directly into the supply ducting pointing down from the joist ceiling. That is not nearly enough ventilation and I was planning to hide the ducting as well.
In rooms that would be occupied (i.e. not store rooms), This is what I ended up with:
A ceiling vent with adjustable damper - 2 of them in the media room, one in the shop and two in the studio.
I had to tapp the supply duct for each one and run flex and rigid ducts:
When I started the basement, there were 2 very small registers cut directly into the supply ducting pointing down from the joist ceiling. That is not nearly enough ventilation and I was planning to hide the ducting as well.
In rooms that would be occupied (i.e. not store rooms), This is what I ended up with:
A ceiling vent with adjustable damper - 2 of them in the media room, one in the shop and two in the studio.
I had to tapp the supply duct for each one and run flex and rigid ducts:
Let's finish the floor!
"dimensional" lumber is anything but... You can take great pains to select the straightest, highest quality lumber and you will still have to deal with sloppy tolerances.
In this case the tolerances are those of the 2X4 pressure treated 'sleepers' and the plywood decking. A bow here, a variance in thickness there and you end up with ledges where the plywood panels meet.
That means leveling compound...
Fortunately it is relatively easy to work with and sands to a feather edge
The finished floor is a product called 'Allure' available only at the Home Depot. It is a 'Resilient Plank Flooring' that is laid down in strips with its own self adhesive edges.
This is a 'floating floor.' It is not glued or taped to the subfloor. You cut it with a utility knife or heavy shears.
This particular finish is "Teak."
Trim is next!
"dimensional" lumber is anything but... You can take great pains to select the straightest, highest quality lumber and you will still have to deal with sloppy tolerances.
In this case the tolerances are those of the 2X4 pressure treated 'sleepers' and the plywood decking. A bow here, a variance in thickness there and you end up with ledges where the plywood panels meet.
That means leveling compound...
Fortunately it is relatively easy to work with and sands to a feather edge
The finished floor is a product called 'Allure' available only at the Home Depot. It is a 'Resilient Plank Flooring' that is laid down in strips with its own self adhesive edges.
This is a 'floating floor.' It is not glued or taped to the subfloor. You cut it with a utility knife or heavy shears.
This particular finish is "Teak."
Trim is next!
Sweet!
The trim.
I had to frame around the existing steel door and the window with bumpouts to the finished and insulated walls. That required some finish framing to make the bumpouts smooth.
Then some caulk...
Some of the interior door frames had to be shimmed...
Then up went the clamshell and baseboard...
I had to frame around the existing steel door and the window with bumpouts to the finished and insulated walls. That required some finish framing to make the bumpouts smooth.
Then some caulk...
Some of the interior door frames had to be shimmed...
Then up went the clamshell and baseboard...
watelessness
Member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2012
- Messages
- 2,543
Theater blanket, resilient channel, 1 pound rubber...
Thanks, Mike/ Look for the badge you made me in an upcoming pic!
Wow, what an amazing job you did. Can I hire you if I ever manage to get a house for grown-ups?
It has been a long, long journey. I started the basement three years ago. This is the final room.
Okay.....
Not sure how to respond to that, primarily because I have no clue what you are talking about,,,,
brentrocks
New Member
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2012
- Messages
- 122
Looking good ruger!!!
Trim taped and painted:
removing tape:
One place needed a bit more attention:
We have 2 furballs. I hid the litterbox behind a wall covering the heater. I could have mounted the door higher, but then it would have been too much of a stepover for the cats... It was easiyh enough to cope the baseboard and finish with caulk.
removing tape:
One place needed a bit more attention:
We have 2 furballs. I hid the litterbox behind a wall covering the heater. I could have mounted the door higher, but then it would have been too much of a stepover for the cats... It was easiyh enough to cope the baseboard and finish with caulk.
The finished window:
The closet getting a shelf. You can see the laser level which was very useful for many parts of the project, like getting a level ceiling hung.
Lots of room to spare
The closet getting a shelf. You can see the laser level which was very useful for many parts of the project, like getting a level ceiling hung.
Lots of room to spare
Shawn@PRS
yogi
looking good!
