Need some advice on a guitar build

[Deleted member 5962]

Yes, it's not PRS. I mentioned that I bought my grandson a kit from Stew Mac for a mini electric. All of the installation of electronics, setup, etc. I'm ok with, but I am not experienced at wood finishing.

I really need someone to tell me what I do and don't need to get the body finished. It's mahogany. One person said I only needed two grades of sandpaper, one thing I read recommended about 4. I plan to buy it and a sanding block from Stew Mac, along with some spray on colored lacquer with stain/color built in.

I need to know what grades of sandpaper I need, and if I need to buy wood filler or not.

I need to know a few general tips on finishing... like how much do I sand it, and how do I clean it off between sandings... like how much lacquer do I spray on and how many times to I sand it and then spray again, etc.

I've done pickups swaps and installs, tuner and bridge installs, bridge setups, etc. etc. but never finished a body. He's really getting interested and actually wants to start guitar lessons, I need to get on this thing.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

With Mahogany, if you’re ok with the grain showing, you can go straight to lacquer.

If not, use grain fill first and sand back to level, before lacquer, usually 360 grit.

Go light with the coats of lacquer and give the required tim to dry, before flatting off each coat with 600 grit.

Use wet and dry when you’re happy with number of coats of lacquer and then a cutting polish to bring up to a shine. Hand polishing takes longer than using a buffing pad on a battery gun/drill.

Best of luck.

 

[jak3af3r]

I always go to 400 before finishing.

You probably want a sealer of some kind before lacquer or you'll waste a tone from sucking in the pores.

You can and potentially should level sand between coats at 600 or higher.

Then move up to 2-3000 from there then cut and buff.

 

[Deleted member 5962]

On very experienced wood worker told me he never used filler on mahogany, but sanded it really smooth before staining.

Anyway, am I to read this so far... Filler before sanding, then sand, then sand with finer grit, then... (wipe with damp cloth? Need to remove all dust...) then sealer, then colored lacquer?

 

[Alnus Rubra]

On very experienced wood worker told me he never used filler on mahogany, but sanded it really smooth before staining.

Anyway, am I to read this so far... Filler before sanding, then sand, then sand with finer grit, then... (wipe with damp cloth? Need to remove all dust...) then sealer, then colored lacquer?

You got it H!

 

[veinbuster]

On very experienced wood worker told me he never used filler on mahogany, but sanded it really smooth before staining.

Anyway, am I to read this so far... Filler before sanding, then sand, then sand with finer grit, then... (wipe with damp cloth? Need to remove all dust...) then sealer, then colored lacquer?

For what it’s worth, Ken Parker blows the dust off pre finish.

 

[alantig]

For what it’s worth, Ken Parker blows the dust off pre finish.

I’m not sure DTR can get Ken in to do that.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

I’m not sure DTR can get Ken in to do that.

I thought he was too busy driving Lady Penelope!

 

[Greywolf]

Kit's are a good place to start , as far as sanding and finishing is concerned generally if all is fairly smooth , 220 , then 400 dry .
To avoid grain filler , I use a sanding sealer lacquer that is heavy on the solids, once an even finish is achieved , wet sand to 400 then start with the gloss coats. BE PATIENT !!! good finishes take time and if you rush them you will regret it. For lacquer I finish up with wet sanding at 1000/1500/2000/3000 then hand buff with polishing compound.

For kids guitars , a Poly finish is a lot more durable and way less intensive to apply .