My new PRS CE bolt on neck is too thin at the heel.

Tim Ulsh

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Nov 27, 2020
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I recently got a used PRS CE guitar. I realized that some of the saddles (namely the high and low Es) were bottomed out, yet the action was a bit high on the fingerboard. I measured my old PRS CE and realized that the heel of the neck was actually almost 1/8" thinner on this new guitar.
Therefore, I simply couldn't get the saddles and pickups where they should be.

I've heard of people putting business cards or credit cards under the heel of the neck to raise the fingerboard.
That seems like a cheezy way to fix the problem. I doubt that I could use real wood, since it's less than 1/8" that I need, and I'd imagine it would split, when bolted down.

Is there a better material to use to shim the neck at the heel?
 
I recently got a used PRS CE guitar. I realized that some of the saddles (namely the high and low Es) were bottomed out, yet the action was a bit high on the fingerboard. I measured my old PRS CE and realized that the heel of the neck was actually almost 1/8" thinner on this new guitar.
Therefore, I simply couldn't get the saddles and pickups where they should be.

I've heard of people putting business cards or credit cards under the heel of the neck to raise the fingerboard.
That seems like a cheezy way to fix the problem. I doubt that I could use real wood, since it's less than 1/8" that I need, and I'd imagine it would split, when bolted down.

Is there a better material to use to shim the neck at the heel?
I've seen the playing card trick on a bolt on neck, but you would need a lot of cards to make up the space you're talking about. A piece of shim stock maple would be your best bet. To prevent splitting, mark and pre-drill the screw holes.
 
Stew Mac makes really nice ( but pricy ) wooden shims.
That said I have found some of my best shims are made from plastic conference badges.
Before you shim have you looked at lowering the 6 bridge screws ?? just a bit
 
Stew Mac makes really nice ( but pricy ) wooden shims.
That said I have found some of my best shims are made from plastic conference badges.
Before you shim have you looked at lowering the 6 bridge screws ?? just a bit

I did already lower the 6 bridge screws a bit.
If I go any further with that, I wouldn't be able to use the trem.
It's really close to the body already.
 
You could use a wooden shim, but instead of using a thick one and raising the neck parallel to where it is now, sand a slight taper on the shim (thinner at the neck end, thicker at the bridge end) so that the neck angles back slightly more and you get the required string height at the bridge. It’ll take a bit of trial and error, but once you’ve got it right, you won’t be able to tell that the neck has been shimmed. The best bit is that it’s completely reversible if it doesn’t work out.
 
I recently got a used PRS CE guitar. I realized that some of the saddles (namely the high and low Es) were bottomed out, yet the action was a bit high on the fingerboard. I measured my old PRS CE and realized that the heel of the neck was actually almost 1/8" thinner on this new guitar.
Therefore, I simply couldn't get the saddles and pickups where they should be.

I've heard of people putting business cards or credit cards under the heel of the neck to raise the fingerboard.
That seems like a cheezy way to fix the problem. I doubt that I could use real wood, since it's less than 1/8" that I need, and I'd imagine it would split, when bolted down.

Is there a better material to use to shim the neck at the heel?

The Stew MacDonald shims are tapered wood and come in various degrees of tilt. They are also pre drilled for the screw holes. Best shims ever.
 
I measured my old PRS CE and realized that the heel of the neck was actually almost 1/8" thinner on this new guitar.

Just so you know, you're not the only one to have the experience. I had a Custom 24 SE that had exactly the same problem. Unfortunately, it was a set neck! :( I went through lowering the trem to about 2/3 spec and filed down the bridge saddles about 1/16" which made it tolerable for a while but I eventually got rid of it.

I didn't have another PRS to compare it to at the time and I thought I was losing my mind before I realized what the story was. Not a good 1st PRS experience! I was thinking, "Geez, I can't believe people rave about these things!" Happily, though, it was just a lemon, and I did pick up another CU24SE which is a very fine guitar indeed.
 
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