Modified Monday

Finally got round to finishing my SE Santana a couple of days ago and I've come to the realization that the Santana is probably just behind the Bernie when it comes to all things killer about the SE range. She sounded fantastic before but now the the Dragon II's installed and a 5 way rotary switch she's a killer. Now I just to need to get a 2017/18 24 fret santana to go along side her:cool:.

 
So I love my new Chris Robertson SE and thought that I should bring it in line with my other guitars (purely cosmetic changes) She here she is.

Stock version except knobs replaced with trans/black ones

Modded version

PRS Core Nut
Ebony & MOP Eagle Truss Rod Cover
Ivory Switch Tip
Core Ivory Pickup Surround
Amber Lampshade Knobs

New TRC


which version do you guys prefer?
 
So I love my new Chris Robertson SE and thought that I should bring it in line with my other guitars (purely cosmetic changes) She here she is.

Stock version except knobs replaced with trans/black ones

Modded version

PRS Core Nut
Ebony & MOP Eagle Truss Rod Cover
Ivory Switch Tip
Core Ivory Pickup Surround
Amber Lampshade Knobs

New TRC


which version do you guys prefer?

If you swapped the P90 cover to cream maybe?
 
So I love my new Chris Robertson SE and thought that I should bring it in line with my other guitars (purely cosmetic changes) She here she is.

Stock version except knobs replaced with trans/black ones

Modded version

PRS Core Nut
Ebony & MOP Eagle Truss Rod Cover
Ivory Switch Tip
Core Ivory Pickup Surround
Amber Lampshade Knobs

New TRC


which version do you guys prefer?

If you swapped the P90 cover to cream maybe?

I prefer the modded one. Really, I like the amber shades better. The cream P90 cover would be interesting. If you go that route you should get some pearloid tuner keys and soak them in coffee for a few hours. I did that on my KL-33. Looks boss with the cream rings that are on it.
 
My PRS SC245 got a set of Coil splits on the weekend:
Some photos below because we all love photos.

The finished product:
IMG_20180916_133931.jpg


I was glad to find the white cables hiding behind the 57/08 pickups the other week.
A little bit more cable would have been nice here though - I had to extend it to get down to the new pots.
Also at this point I knew I was fully committed.

If you're wondering why I had all 4 knobs unscrewed at this point, my original intention was to move the volumes around to make it the same as a LP/594.
I put these plans on ice for now as the cables were all quite short.
IMG_20180916_124048.jpg


Old and new side-by-side
IMG_20180916_122521.jpg


Getting the new pots ready (594 schematic providing guidance)
IMG_20180916_123109.jpg


3 strings on for a quick sound-check
IMG_20180916_133148.jpg


New strings on and it's job done, happy days!
IMG_20180916_133540.jpg
 
How do you like the new pickups compare to the stock 58/15S?

I love them, I came across a great deal for them and I was worried that the low output would make my guitar sound too weak. But I must say they are super clear and I am happy. From the little comparison I have with the 58/15 the only thing I noticed was a little more output (I have an archon so I adjusted accordingly).
 
Not the best photo due to phone camera, in reality the grain shows through a nice cherry colour, just looks washed out here

58/15 neck and pearly gates bridge. Stock PRS wiring etc, I just swapped out the pickups.

I have S2 SC with an 85/15 set and with the same amp settings those 85/15 are more powerful and crunchy, where the 5815/pearly gates stay clean, so these pickups in the mira have a nice contrasting clarity about them, and the PG bridge split tones are fantastic. These mixed pickups work well in a set. Kudos to PRS for a great split tone circuit.

Happy to have two flavours to play with. One thing I noticed is although the necks are same spec and visually, the gloss mira feels a little thinner under hand than than the satin SC





1534n7r.png
 
Strange that I would have this guitar for about a year now and only just opened the control cavity this weekend. We've got a couple more studio dates coming up this week and next and the volume pot was being a wee bit flaky randomly, not very often, but enough to have me worried. I bought this guitar new so I suppose I could have had this done under warranty, but where's the fun in that? I swapped out the volume pot in a half hour while my wife was napping. She loves it when I make our kitchen table look like this.

yKzHBXE.jpg


Never been a big fan of Alpha pots so when I replace them I use either CTS our Bournes. At some point I ordered a bunch of CTS pots just to have some kicking around. I don't remember doing it, but it happened. Also, I was happy to see the stock SE pot had the 180pf treble bleed cap on it. I reused it, otherwise I would have added it from my stash. That's right, I grow 180pf caps from between my upper lip and nose.

E5O3lwt.jpg


Of course Alpha pots are metric and CTS are a slightly larger imperial size. You would think after doing this to probably a dozen guitars over the years I'd have the proper tool - a tapered reamer. But nope, I don't even have a drill press or anything but this heavy ass corded drill and a 3/8" bit. MUHAHAHAA

xlqV3Py.jpg


Even with the tape on there, some paint chipped, but not too much. This guitar's finish is really thin. Impressively so.

QnouNye.jpg


Of course once you get the pot in there with the nut and washer, the chips automagically disappear! Like they're not even there!!!

szIHcXd.jpg


And wouldn't you know, I forgot to take a pic of the whole guitar once I was done. Used it at practice later in the day and I could swear the tone was a wee bit fuller in the lower end and smoother in the highs. I know on paper there isn't much difference between Alpha and CTS pots, but I really think the CTS ones sound better. And considering 100% of your signal goes through the volume pot all the time, it's worth the $6 upgrade.
 
Strange that I would have this guitar for about a year now and only just opened the control cavity this weekend. We've got a couple more studio dates coming up this week and next and the volume pot was being a wee bit flaky randomly, not very often, but enough to have me worried. I bought this guitar new so I suppose I could have had this done under warranty, but where's the fun in that? I swapped out the volume pot in a half hour while my wife was napping. She loves it when I make our kitchen table look like this.

yKzHBXE.jpg


Never been a big fan of Alpha pots so when I replace them I use either CTS our Bournes. At some point I ordered a bunch of CTS pots just to have some kicking around. I don't remember doing it, but it happened. Also, I was happy to see the stock SE pot had the 180pf treble bleed cap on it. I reused it, otherwise I would have added it from my stash. That's right, I grow 180pf caps from between my upper lip and nose.

E5O3lwt.jpg


Of course Alpha pots are metric and CTS are a slightly larger imperial size. You would think after doing this to probably a dozen guitars over the years I'd have the proper tool - a tapered reamer. But nope, I don't even have a drill press or anything but this heavy ass corded drill and a 3/8" bit. MUHAHAHAA

xlqV3Py.jpg


Even with the tape on there, some paint chipped, but not too much. This guitar's finish is really thin. Impressively so.

QnouNye.jpg


Of course once you get the pot in there with the nut and washer, the chips automagically disappear! Like they're not even there!!!

szIHcXd.jpg


And wouldn't you know, I forgot to take a pic of the whole guitar once I was done. Used it at practice later in the day and I could swear the tone was a wee bit fuller in the lower end and smoother in the highs. I know on paper there isn't much difference between Alpha and CTS pots, but I really think the CTS ones sound better. And considering 100% of your signal goes through the volume pot all the time, it's worth the $6 upgrade.

I've just used rough sandpaper wrapped around a pen to widen the holes.
 
I'll never understand why some people insist upon ruining their guitars with modifications :iamconfused: ... The negative effects on resale value alone is enough for me to keep all of my PRS stock from the factory as Paul intended!

If you want to tinker with pickups or something just get a kit guitar or a partscaster to mess around with. Once you break that first solder joint or install a TRC with a non-factory spec screw the guitar is worthless... you might even scratch something.

Hello Sergiodeblanc,

I absolutely agree and disagree...

I have a few guitars, I have had to change parts on all of them except..... my McCarty Satin Singlecut... of all the guitars I have, this was 'the' only one which was built properly. Every detail of that guitar that influenced tone, sustain and playability had been well and truly thought out. The question of 'upgrading' this guitar never arose, I don't believe that it is possible; Paul and his team have done this already; they are the only large manufacturer to do this since perhaps Fender prior to Leo selling the company in the early sixties. However, even this guitar did receive 'some' modifications, but these were only cosmetic, such as changing the tuner buttons to PRS ivoroid ones, changing the control knobs from the original 'Speed' knobs to PRS Lampshades; that was it! I have the original tuner buttons and control knobs, all can be returned to original specification by someone after I'm dead. While I have breath in me, this guitar will not leave me!

I think though, there are points where we can makes these fabulous 'core' guitars more personal, without changing them in a way that can't be reversed.

The area where I will absolutely support mods is in the SE range. Taking my Se apart gave me renewed respect for Paul. Even though these are 'affordable' student's guitars made on a strict budget in Korea, he made every effort to replicate the features of his core instruments. The tuners, nut, bridge and pickups; however, these were undoubtably compromises, good choices no doubt, but on a budget, I see nothing wrong with upgrading these guitars, not only cosmetically, but with hardware and electronics which are comparable to the core instruments. You will not end up with a guitar that's equal to a core instrument, that's impossible, but you will improve, what is already a very good guitar.
ufmJpEG.jpg
 
Hello Sergiodeblanc,

I absolutely agree and disagree...

I have a few guitars, I have had to change parts on all of them except..... my McCarty Satin Singlecut... of all the guitars I have, this was 'the' only one which was built properly. Every detail of that guitar that influenced tone, sustain and playability had been well and truly thought out. The question of 'upgrading' this guitar never arose, I don't believe that it is possible; Paul and his team have done this already; they are the only large manufacturer to do this since perhaps Fender prior to Leo selling the company in the early sixties. However, even this guitar did receive 'some' modifications, but these were only cosmetic, such as changing the tuner buttons to PRS ivoroid ones, changing the control knobs from the original 'Speed' knobs to PRS Lampshades; that was it! I have the original tuner buttons and control knobs, all can be returned to original specification by someone after I'm dead. While I have breath in me, this guitar will not leave me!

I think though, there are points where we can makes these fabulous 'core' guitars more personal, without changing them in a way that can't be reversed.

The area where I will absolutely support mods is in the SE range. Taking my Se apart gave me renewed respect for Paul. Even though these are 'affordable' student's guitars made on a strict budget in Korea, he made every effort to replicate the features of his core instruments. The tuners, nut, bridge and pickups; however, these were undoubtably compromises, good choices no doubt, but on a budget, I see nothing wrong with upgrading these guitars, not only cosmetically, but with hardware and electronics which are comparable to the core instruments. You will not end up with a guitar that's equal to a core instrument, that's impossible, but you will improve, what is already a very good guitar.
ufmJpEG.jpg


Yeah, I was being blatantly flippant when I posted that. I have a ton of modded PRS.
 
I hate to break this to you, but you've been had. Sergio is one of the prime modifiers on this site. He's been known to...turn the knobs, flip the toggle switches to different positions, and even change the strings. None of which I've ever had the guts to do. :p

Change the strings!!!!! My gosh! All my guitars have the original strings... whatever next? No, of course not :) But I can say that all my mods, bar one, can be reversed to original specification.

Bar one? Oh, a rather mad buy, a Korean Tokai, a 2003 1960 Les Paul-inspired model that was looking very sad. This guitar was covered with a thick polyurethane finish, and the back a pinkish red, I truly hated the colours... unlike a PRS SE, the hardware was awful too, I sanded the back and neck to bare wood, the top I sanded back so far as to remove the cherry of the sunburst finish; when that guitar is rebuilt, it will never be viable to return it to original specification. I could never do this to a PRS!
CfPGp7t.jpg
 
Change the strings!!!!! My gosh! All my guitars have the original strings... whatever next? No, of course not :) But I can say that all my mods, bar one, can be reversed to original specification.

Bar one? Oh, a rather mad buy, a Korean Tokai, a 2003 1960 Les Paul-inspired model that was looking very sad. This guitar was covered with a thick polyurethane finish, and the back a pinkish red, I truly hated the colours... unlike a PRS SE, the hardware was awful too, I sanded the back and neck to bare wood, the top I sanded back so far as to remove the cherry of the sunburst finish; when that guitar is rebuilt, it will never be viable to return it to original specification. I could never do this to a PRS!
CfPGp7t.jpg

You know, this raises a question for me. Who all here has sent one back to the PTC for a refinish? Can be to restore damage or for a custom color. Just very interested as I'll admit that as much as I love my CE22, I'm not really a fan of cherry sunburst, so a refinish is something that's crossed my mind more than once.
 
You know, this raises a question for me. Who all here has sent one back to the PTC for a refinish? Can be to restore damage or for a custom color. Just very interested as I'll admit that as much as I love my CE22, I'm not really a fan of cherry sunburst, so a refinish is something that's crossed my mind more than once.

WHERE IS THE POPCORN EMOJI???!?!?!?!?!
 
I could swear the tone was a wee bit fuller in the lower end and smoother in the highs. I know on paper there isn't much difference between Alpha and CTS pots, but I really think the CTS ones sound better. And considering 100% of your signal goes through the volume pot all the time, it's worth the $6 upgrade.

It's strange that so many people change the pickups but leave the other electrical components intact. I have a Korean Hamer, it sounded absolutely awful, I changed the Duncan Designed Korean-made pickups to Seymour Duncan '59 neck and Pearly Gates in the bridge; I thought this made a huge improvement, but... only when I changed the pots to CTS, cap to Jenson, selector switch and jack to Switchcraft did I hear those pickups for the first time, it was a massive difference!

I also enlarge the holes for the Imperial CTS pots with sandpaper wrapped around a pen because I don't trust myself with a drill :)
 
So, I ordered a Satin Black John Mann bridge for my Studio back at the end of August. Arrived at the end of last week. Been super busy and distracted, so I finally got around to installing it tonight. The Studio started a year ago with white rings, chrome tuning keys, clear knobs, and a covered 57/08. I didn't care for the look of the covered p/u with the uncovered Narrowfields, so I dropped a 59/09 in. Ordered black rings from PRS Customer Service, some black tuning keys, and black based knobs. All of that I completed about 9 months ago. When John posted his new adjustable stop tail, and I saw a black option, I knew that would complete the Studio project. It just looked odd with the chrome stop tail. At least I thought so. At any rate, full disclosure, I can't find any before pics, so I lifted them from Google Images. My apologies if I hocked someone's pic.

Sorry for the crappy after pics. It's late, and the florescent lighting in the basement blows. It's a 2011 Angry Larry 10 Top.

Before:
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After:
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20151030_204247_zpsdphx23ib.jpg

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I know this is years later but I’d love to see what a black satin Mann bridge looked like and the links are broken! I’m so bummed it’s no longer and more than likely due to EPA regulation never available again :(
 
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