Mini toggle switches SE guitar

Jason G

New Member
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Jan 15, 2020
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46
Hi, having some trouble with the pup selector and the mini toggle switches on the 35th SE custom 24. I see they have similar switches available on stew-Mac for example, but I am not sure which one is the right one. I think it’s the SPDT on/on switch but I am not sure. Can anyone verify that is the right one? Appreciate your help thanks a lot.
 
If you aren’t sure if it is a spdt, how can you know that the switch(es) are the problem?

The mini toggle switches are dpdt, btw.
 
If you aren’t sure if it is a spdt, how can you know that the switch(es) are the problem?

The mini toggle switches are dpdt, btw.
I don’t. So, once I know the correct switches to buy, I will change all of them. Thanks though.
 
My point was, you should check the switches operation, and wiring, to know where the problem really is. If your guitar is miswired, and you replace the switches, you just wasted your time and money.

I have had at least 2 PRS that were miswired from the factory. Good thing I checked instead of just blindly replacing parts. ;)
 
They are DPDT ON/ON, but I agree you should try to troubleshoot first.

Do you have a multimeter to poke around with?
 
They are DPDT ON/ON, but I agree you should try to troubleshoot first.

Do you have a multimeter to poke around with?
I already did all that thanks. I just wanted to confirm which to buy, thank you for the correct information.
 
I picked up my 35th SE custom 24 on Tuesday and (I appreciate this may be a slightly different issue) I am not convinced the rear mini toggle switch is doing anything at all. The front one makes a noticeable difference but the rear one seems to do nothing. There's not even any kind of sounds through the amp when I flick it.

I'll take it back to GAK in Brighton at the weekend (its also got some major fret buzz, and I don't want to be playing around with Truss rods in a brand new guitar, and the tone knob is a bit "crackly") but I don't want to look stupid and say the mini toggle is broke if there is an easy way to tell.

Sorry to hijack the thread a little, but it seemed kind of relevant.

Thanks

—————

Just in case anyone else reads this because they are having similar issues, it turns out one of the switches was broken. The dealer played it, then tried another one they had in stock to compare and the difference was instantly obvious. The nut was also so low the dealer said it would be difficult to stop the fret buzz. So quality control at the Indonesian factory doesn’t seem great, which is a shaw because it was a lovely guitar, especially in its price point. I returned it and bit the bullet and bought a CE24, which is built in Maryland, with the same pickups as the core guitars, and solid wood rather than veneers. The SE was very nice, although apparently not all that well bolted together. The CE 24 is amazing.
 
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They are DPDT ON/ON, but I agree you should try to troubleshoot first.

Do you have a multimeter to poke around with?


Thanks for the courteous way you responded to the OP. One of the best things about this forum is the positive attitude and supportive nature, while really discouraging snarky, unhelpful replies. Those can stay over at TGP.
 
Egads - I really noticed that too. As you’ll see I’m new to this forum. The responses all seem genuine and helpful, a long way from the usual childish snark on mist on-line forums.
 
Egads - I really noticed that too. As you’ll see I’m new to this forum. The responses all seem genuine and helpful, a long way from the usual childish snark on mist on-line forums.

Most people mean well, but tone (and sarcasm) are often difficult to discern in a forum. When people come looking for help they deserve the respect and understanding they would get in person. Thank you for helping to grow that positive attitude.
 
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