Maple necks...

My Fender Eric Johnson Strat has a quarter sawn maple neck and it is super stiff and stable. So stiff in fact that it is hard to get any neck relief. I have found it impossible to set up with 9s as they just don't have enough tension to move the neck with the truss rod completely slacked off.
Ha! I have the exact same experience with my EJ. Good vibration in that neck.
 
Ha! I have the exact same experience with my EJ. Good vibration in that neck.
Yeah I've got to say that the EJ models are fantastic value for money (second hand especially) for the quality of guitar you get. A lovely combination of vintage specs but with some modern updates. Only thing I changed was the bridge to a Callaham unit, as I already had it sitting spare and the original trem arm was too soft and bent all the time.
Mines a 2005 and was in near perfect condition when I bought it for around £750! (edit, just checked and it was £820)
 
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Yes to maple necks and maple fretboards!

More tuning stability because there is less temperature and humidity movement due to dissimilar materials. Also the finish that gets applied on all-maple necks retards the humidity further while rosewood and ebony are left with open pores and only a light oiling from time to time.

No fear of CITES with maple, no travel or shipment hassles. Doing the right thing avoiding harvesting rain forest lumber.

It would be nice if those pro players supporting environmental causes and global warming initiatives looked into their guitar material choices a bit more carefully... Because even if they believe they 'need' magic wood, can't they play 'just a little bit better' for the good of their cause to 'compensate' for using local woods?

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More tuning stability because there is less temperature and humidity movement due to dissimilar materials. Also the finish that gets applied on all-maple necks retards the humidity further while rosewood and ebony are left with open pores and only a light oiling from time to time.

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In the case of neck woods, dissimilar materials actually makes a neck stronger and more resistant to bowing because the grain of the fretboard and neck don't align. Particularly is the neck is quartersawn and the fretboard flatsawn.

According to Taylor guitars, finish is still permeable to water vapor. As a side note, it would be curious to see if/how much finish is applied to the end grain on a neck as that's where the majority of humidity loss and absorption would occur.

Ebony is a close-grained wood and while rosewood is an open-grained wood, it's naturally very very oily and only needs extra oil of it starts to dry.
 
I have a 2012 PRS NF3 with a maple neck, which I like alot on the fret side. However, the backside is sticky to my hand right now and that I don't like.

I want to remedy this, but I don't want to do the wrong thing for the "finish" (or lack thereof).

Could someone advise me on whether it would be best to clean with water, or with some kind of oil, or to spray with Finger-Ease, or what?

Thanks!
 
I have a 2012 PRS NF3 with a maple neck, which I like alot on the fret side. However, the backside is sticky to my hand right now and that I don't like.

I want to remedy this, but I don't want to do the wrong thing for the "finish" (or lack thereof).

Could someone advise me on whether it would be best to clean with water, or with some kind of oil, or to spray with Finger-Ease, or what?

Thanks!
Slightly damp rag, just water. No oils, polish, etc. You can also use some super fine steel wool #0000 and lightly rub the back of the neck down. That’ll remove any oils from your hands or if there’s any glossy buildup from playing it.
 
Slightly damp rag, just water. No oils, polish, etc. You can also use some super fine steel wool #0000 and lightly rub the back of the neck down. That’ll remove any oils from your hands or if there’s any glossy buildup from playing it.

Sorry V, I went visual and imagined you rubbing your own neck with steel wool and I couldn’t work out how that would remove the oils from your hands!:oops:
 
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